Flubbed on my Foray with Burris XTR Signature Scope Rings

Ezana4CE


Yeah, I ran into that very issue, why those values are not on the ring instruction sheets.
My guess is that it's due to the various model numbers (although they are ALL the same values for these particular rings) on other items, thus the separate chart. Plus, they give varying center of ring to mount heights per each model number.

mike
@Revoman The thing that gets me is the recommended ring spacing may not always be feasible in order to maximize on the adjustments that the inserts offer. That is if I’m remembering what I read correctly. I recall reading something about 4” spacing between rings. I think I got about 2.75” of space between rings. Thankfully I’m not shooting much beyond 100 yards with this rifle.
 
I’m shooting projectiles that have always shot well from this rifle, but still having this issue. I maxed out then centered the windage turret. I started out shooting about 6.25” wide left At 25 yards.

These are the gaps between the insertes I was talking about in a previous post.

Rear left side of ring.
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Rear right side of ring
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Front of right side of front ring.
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Front of left side of front ring.
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Inhave circles the area where the gaps between the inserts are or should be. I don’t know how big of a difference this makes. Below is the target.

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Far left is my first shot. The next 2 that are approx 6” to the right of poop #1 hit low left of bullseye after maxing out the windage still holding dead center. Then 2 shots after that I held right 2 MOA and fell short ¼ - ½“ left of bullsey. When I held right 4 MOA, I was center and a little low.

Now I have to determine if I mounted something incorrectly and considered exploring swapping the front ring with the rear ring to see if these have machining defects. Any ideas or suggestions?
 
With less space between the rings you will increase the induced cant front to back. If you run half the recommended distance you'll get twice the drop.

You may want to try a one piece drop mount and see if there is some other issue here, this seems overly fussy to me...
@JW It may be overly fussy to you, but I spent my money and I aim to get to the bottom of this issue. Since vertical cant isn’t an issue, the space between rings (around the scope body) isn’t so worrisome. I’m perturbed by the horizontal shift. Thanks for the tip about the ring spacing.

I use these rings all the time and they are my favorites… bit overkill but nice. just make sure you take your time and properly pair the inserts as done wrong it can affect your parallax… ask me how I know 🤦‍♂️
IMO lubing is unecessary, just press them in flush and maintain flush when dropping the top insert over. Always retorque 15-18 inch lb max… with six bolts securing one ring ya don’t need much
@cavedweller I’m still exploring issues with these rings to see what others may have encountered and I came across this guy who bound his scope up torquing to 20 in/lbs causing parallax issues. He was torquing the hell out of those screws even though that wrench was supposedly set to 20 in/lbs. I wish he told us which scope he was running, but abusing by the manufacturer’s specs should be a safe bet.

 
If reading the instructions properly, you should understand that the two pieces, upper and lower inserts, DO NOT need to be in alignment with the upper and lower metal rings gap. To compensate for windage, simply rotate the two rings in the direction per the instructions to make the windage adjustment.
Example:
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As you can see by the blue circled gaps, they will 'move' the windage, along with the elevation, to the correct POA (the shown inserts are but an example). You can still use the ones that you currently have set up, just need to 'clock them' properly to attain you POA/POI to match. In the above example, you can see that the top pic shows a 10 MOA upward and to the right at an approximate 45° angle. The bottom shows that same angle, only it's in a downward position instead of up (poorly illustrated with the arrows pointing in both directions though!). The real part that makes sense is that you can readily see that the inserts are thicker in each example. That DOES illustrate well to better understand the example.
They don't necessarily need to be at a 45° angle either, you're simply attempting to adjust to an angle that works for your offset (not sure that 'offset' is the correct term) MOA.
It is fairly well explained in the instructions. You don't NEED to have 4" between the rings, even the chart below illustrates a 3.5" space, but as stated above it helps to have them as far apart as you can (also shown in the instructions for MOA offset).
Technically, you can adjust the elevation and windage to perfection without touching the turrets using the inserts in the proper orientation. I would simply get them pretty close and turret adjust from there.
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I also highly recommend using some sort of a gun clamp to stabilize the rifle to make it MUCH easier to make the correct adjustments. Especially if you can clamp it down to a stable surface that won't move. That way any adjustments made will be true without resetting in between shots each time.

mike
 
@Revoman Before I’d consider using the inserts to add cant, I expect to be able to hit something a close range without needing it, especially with a known gun/ammo combo that shoots well. This combo should to be able to shoot straight without taking up all of the scope’s windage adjustments from 25 yards. I’ve shot this ammo and gun combo acceptably out to 100 yards with a different scope and mounts. This was a non-issue. So I suspect something to be wrong with the scope, the rings, the inserts, or my installation process. I wanted the gaps in the inserts to be aligned with the gaps in the rings so that I’m starting with zero cant in both rings. It should not be necessary from 25 yards. I’m in the process of identifying al exactly what the issue is. The way I currently have this scope dialed in and What I have to do to hit a bullseye so close is unacceptable to me. Having corrected the canted inserts and and still experiencing the same issue makes me suspect that something is awry or that I’m missing something. I’m hoping someone can see something that I cannot. There’s no way, under normal circumstances, that I can think of where I should be adding cant to compensate for windage with a 25 yard zero.
 
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Ring have gaps should be even. Tighten ring halve alternating between screws in a x pattern. Scope rings 17 inch pounds. Bases 25 to 30 inch pounds. Be sure bases are seated properly before tightening. Easy way to check scope, try another. Start with the o inserts. Where there gaps are means nothing. Zero is zero. Don't make it harder than it is inventing problems that don't exist.