First break barrel, 1992 rws 34, little help

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grasshopper

Member
May 29, 2020
10
4
Oklahoma, United States
I have been using a pcp for some time. I wanted to try a break barrel so picked the rws 34 up. It shot terrible, all over the place, sounded rough. So I took apart and found the spring broken in a couple of places. I got a kit and assembled correctly I hope. Anyway, I started to try it out and it still shoots all over the paper. I was using the scope that came on it so I bought a new utg and tried that. No good. So I crony it: 20 shots, H-896 L-876 Av-886 es-20 sd-5. better than my pcp. So I got a piccy mount and tried that, no good. So I tried both scopes again, no good. Next I tried a loose hold and a bear hug and no good. When I shoot at a dot the poi is 6 inches to the right and some go 10 inches diagonally down to the right. Sometimes I will get 3 shots touching each other and the next two 4 inches off. They are generally in the same area but no where near dot. I really believe this is impossible because the scope is leveled and looks in line with the barrel. Twice in the 100 shots I got a loud bang like a rim fire but I was pretty sure I put a pellet in, but maybe that was me. I am not jerking the trigger. That gun does have a kick, I am used to a pcp. I guess that is why it was for sale. Any thots, if not all is well I need a shop wall ornament. thx
 
Sounds Like it Needs couple hundred rounds break in shots so use heavy 10 grain pellets till then assuming it's a 177. Shoot with open sights so you don't get discouraged in the mean time. 

Looks Like it was too boring shooting your PCP so I guess your plan worked.

Always hold the barrel securely with the other hand while loading the pellet for safety unlike this guy.

https://youtu.be/0dQ44J6LlTA


 
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RWS 34 are famous for barrel droop. Couple of fixes. 1: machine the droop out but cutting meat out of bottom barrel block, Only a little is required. .20 cal did a nice write up on it on the old yellow forum.

2nd and easier fix it the RWS scope mount that had droop in it.

Here is a picture of my .20 RWS 36 and how i handled the droop issue.



tim
IMG_9529.1607652793.JPG

 
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RWS 34 are famous for barrel droop. Couple of fixes. 1: machine the droop out but cutting meat out of bottom barrel block, Only a little is required. .20 cal did a nice write up on it on the old yellow forum.

2nd and easier fix it the RWS scope mount that had droop in it.

Here is a picture of my .20 RWS 36 and how i handled the droop issue.



tim
IMG_9529.1607652793.JPG
Click to expand...

I'd say he's having more issues than mere barrel droop. Even with droop you should be able to cluster shots. Low, but clusters nevertheless. I think going from a PCP to a fairly powerful springer like the 34 can be a culture shock for some. Maybe letting someone accustomed to shooting a springer shoot it and see how they do.
 
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Probly the hold or resting the gun in a way it does not like. Spring gun are inherently difficult to shoot as they are so hold sensitive. The barrel could be dirty or a burr on the crown. But likely it is a combination of several of these things. After all that is figured out I would say pellet choice is important as it can make a big difference as well.

The loud bang is dieseling from burning oils and grease from the rebuild I would expect. Likely sending the pellets over the sound barrier so a sonic crack as well.
 
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Sounds like too much lube on the spring and it has migrated in front of the piston if your getting a loud bang. That's the usual results from what the pros call a ghetto tune no offense

meant. Strip it back down flush all the carbon base grease out of it get a jar of Ultimox off of Amazon and lightly lube the spring and piston. Ultimox is a space age lube that is made from teflon and won't burn. It does not mix well with carbon based grease and will make a mess if you don't get all the grease out also it is hard to remove once you put it on and requires a special cleaner to remove all traces from what ever you lube with it but the stuff flat works and will save you time and money in the long run. I have it in all of my guns and won't use any of the old school greases.

You might also want to check the barrel muzzle crown which can cause which look like thrown shoots and this will require for a pro gunsmith to reface it for you. 
 
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I was shooting 15 yd. I did not want to walk too far to see where I was hitting. I don't have iron sights on it. I also took off the muzzle weight to see if that was the issue. I took off the piccy mount and put on the regular again. I take no offense, I am a shade tree redneck and never had a spring apart. I coated the spring with the grease they sent with the kit. I did consider that the explosion was detonation, probably cleaned the barrel for me. I did look thru it and it was clear. I am not bored with the pcp I just wanted to try a spring. My pcp can only shoot 16 shots in the 2500-1800 and need air, ( guess what I tuned it to get 800 fps with 10.3 which isn't that great, but was all I could get shade tree again ) Anyway I thot I might go hunting and didn't want to worry about air. Yes, I always hold the barrel. I will try some 10.3 and see about break-in. I will clean barrel and look for burrs. I don't understand about crown. I can see how the right mount will help with the droop, but 6 inches of windage can't be taken care of with turret I don't think, just break in I guess. Thx all your suggestions are taken with high esteem.
 
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Definitely check the stock screws! Don't go crazy, just nice and snug. You didn't mention whether you've cleaned the barrel-use a pull-through type like the Crown Saver or Patch Worm. And try different pellets-domes will usually shoot well-H&N, JSB, RWS, and Crosman would be some good brands to try.
Click to expand...

I torque the three machine screw fastners to 25 in lbs.
 
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