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Finishing up my Yong Heng set-up and have some questions

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OatmealMu

Member
Nov 27, 2022
100
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USA
I'm in the process of putting the finishing touches on my compressor set-up. Everything is going well enough, but I still have questions:

1. After clearing up some issues with AliExpress, I finally have one of those large gold molecular sieves on the way. From what I understand, these filters do not have check valves, correct? I ordered an M10X1 check valve from Amazon. This one okay? Also, which direction does air run through the check valve? Do I screw it into the input side of the filter?

2. What's a good way to mount the molecular sieve to a utility cart without drilling? I'm thinking I'll mount it vertically along one of the legs with zip ties, although I have concerns about vibrations causing it to slip down the leg. I'd also like to protect the body of the sieve somehow. Maybe another set of zip ties wrapped around it so it doesn't touch the cart directly?

3. I ordered a 30 minute SCBA tank. For the fill station I opted for a cheap eBay job. I still need a way to prevent it from rolling around, though. All of the brackets I've found seem to be for larger tanks. Is there something that adjusts to small diameters?

4. The water source is below the compressor, so I bought a 400GPH water pump from eBay. Unfortunately, the water hose is too small for the water pump fitting. I'm trying to find a smaller nozzle that'll fit the water pump without luck. Ideas? Also, does anyone know where to find replacement feet for the stock water pump?

Thanks.
 
Oatmeal,
The M50 long gold, or blue, filters don't come with check valves, I don't use any, so can't help. Search archives under "Yong Heng", you'll see my set-up, filters rest on shelf edge, cable ties hold in place but slide off for filter removal. Long gold M50 has white foam pipe insulation behind to move it slightly forward so smaller filters fit without hitting protruding shelf edges. I'd try to find an adapter that will link a hose coming from compressor to hose coming from water pump, if I understand your dilemma. WM
 
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30Mpa is very close to if not exactly 300 bar so it should work. It may be what I have in the output side of my smaller extra filter. I put it on the output because I have had the O-rings which seal the filter fail which caused me to loose air from the tank until I got the valve closed. The only problem I have had was I put a plug in the hose from the check valve and then had no way to vent it. Fortunately the line didn't have a lot of air in it. But still certainly not recommended. If you want to test your pump, you need to plug the line from the OEM filter.

You might want to look at plastic plumbing connectors and see if there is one about the right size to hold your filter up. I'd put something below it so it cannot fall out.

I made a tray to support my 45 minute bottle out of cypress (wood). Softwood would work fine. If you have a jig saw something like this isn't hard.

I'd get a pump with the right size connections. They are not expensive. I switched to brake line hose after the clear vinyl hose I was using started pinching off flow.

I added a computer radiator and fans to mine to help with cooling. They seem to help significantly.
 
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Heads up for that "check valve" I linked to. It isn't one. Air flows in both directions. Off to find a replacement.

EDIT: Scratch that. It is a check valve... with a crusty o-ring inside it. So, if you ever end up buying one of these, unscrew the brass portion and look inside for any damaged parts. IIRC, it comes with an extra o-ring.
 
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So, the spare o-ring quickly got shredded. Looks like whatever material they're using isn't up to the task. Anyone know what type of o-ring would work?


IMG_1695.jpg
 
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What shredded the green oring? Doesn't look like the typical erosion that can be seen on orings within high pressure situation (like fosters, etc) and the couple of hours that it has been since you last posted wouldn't have been enough to see the slow and gradual erosion that I'm talking about.

Is this check valve screwed into a filter, or something else?
 
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Franklink said:
What shredded the green oring? Doesn't look like the typical erosion that can be seen on orings within high pressure situation (like fosters, etc) and the couple of hours that it has been since you last posted wouldn't have been enough to see the slow and gradual erosion that I'm talking about.

Is this check valve screwed into a filter, or something else?
Click to expand...

It certainly could be my set-up. It looks like this:

IMG_1696.jpg


It's not attached, but the check valve is normally screwed into the bottom of the large gold molecular sieve. I just got a 30 minute SCBA tank, so I've been filling it in 10-15 minute intervals, stopping when the compressor temperature hits 60C. Maybe it's my fill process? This is what I do:

1. Plug in the water pump and compressor
2. Connect the necessary hoses, then open the SCBA tank valve and wait until the gold filters stop pressurizing
3. Turn on compressor, wait a few seconds, then close both bleed screws on it
4. Begin filling, making sure to open bleed screw on compressor every 5 minutes
5. Once the compressor hits 60C, open bleed screws on compressor, then turn switch it off
6. The SCBA tank valve remains open and the gold filters and fill station remain pressurized while I wait until the compressor cools
7. Once at room temperature, I start the compressor, close the bleed screws and continue the process

Maybe I'm opening the SCBA valve too quickly?
 
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My procedure is similar to yours, although it sounds like you pressurize the filters with air from the tank. I pressurize the filters with newly pressurized air from the Yong Heng, waiting until the gauge on my fill station side is nearly to the pressure that I know to be in the tank to open the tank valve. That minor difference shouldn't be what ate that oring though.

Have you taken a look down into the surface where the green oring seats? Is it rough?

I've tried to save a buck 2 or 3 times by buying various fittings on ebay or amazon. Every time it has cost me more money in the long run because I eventually had to buy a quality replacement from a reputable company, usually b/c the cheapy wasn't within tolerances to connect safely or wouldn't seal or was generally a pain the arse like you're having here. So this could be as simple as a low quality check valve, with the brass pin of the check valve being pushing into the seating surface too far, thereby cutting that green oring.

My check valve solution for Yong Heng was this: https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/air-tanks-plus.1273960/
I just threaded those two fittings (two links in the above link) together to create a check valve with male fosters on each end. I use the female foster on the black filter that comes with the Yong Heng on one end of my two male-ended contraption and another female foster on the rest of the filters on the other end and go to town. I only lose the small volume of air in the black filter each time I purge but everything past that stays pressurized.

I drew a black arrow with sharpie on my double male check valve to remind me of air flow direction.

Those two and shipping should keep you under $30, and might be the easiest way to avoid the frustration you're currently experiencing. Not saying it's the "right" way or the only way, but this solution worked/works for me.
 
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This is how I isolated My filter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R792TGF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
That goes on the bottom of the filter and stops air from going back to the compressor when you bleed the line.


This goes into the top of the filter so that a shutoff can be added.


The shutoff valve.

Adapts the shutoff valve back to a 1/8 npt fitting.

A whip is added to go to the gun/bottle.

Goes on the end of the whip to bleed that line after the shutoff valve is closed and the filter is isolated.

As far as mounting the filter it should be vertical and the mount can be as simple as using tape.

The tube on the inside of the filter has a aluminum end, that is the top where the air exits to the gun/bottle.
 
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Franklink said:
My procedure is similar to yours, although it sounds like you pressurize the filters with air from the tank. I pressurize the filters with newly pressurized air from the Yong Heng, waiting until the gauge on my fill station side is nearly to the pressure that I know to be in the tank to open the tank valve. That minor difference shouldn't be what ate that oring though.

Have you taken a look down into the surface where the green oring seats? Is it rough?

I've tried to save a buck 2 or 3 times by buying various fittings on ebay or amazon. Every time it has cost me more money in the long run because I eventually had to buy a quality replacement from a reputable company, usually b/c the cheapy wasn't within tolerances to connect safely or wouldn't seal or was generally a pain the arse like you're having here. So this could be as simple as a low quality check valve, with the brass pin of the check valve being pushing into the seating surface too far, thereby cutting that green oring.

My check valve solution for Yong Heng was this: https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/air-tanks-plus.1273960/
I just threaded those two fittings (two links in the above link) together to create a check valve with male fosters on each end. I use the female foster on the black filter that comes with the Yong Heng on one end of my two male-ended contraption and another female foster on the rest of the filters on the other end and go to town. I only lose the small volume of air in the black filter each time I purge but everything past that stays pressurized.

I drew a black arrow with sharpie on my double male check valve to remind me of air flow direction.

Those two and shipping should keep you under $30, and might be the easiest way to avoid the frustration you're currently experiencing. Not saying it's the "right" way or the only way, but this solution worked/works for me.
Click to expand...

I just got my fittings in today, and I'm getting a bad leak from the threads. How exactly did you create a seal between them? I tried putting the small plastic piece in between the two fittings before screwing them together, but the piece rattled around inside, and I took it out. Unsurprisingly, it leaked from the threads when pressurized. Next, I tried some thread tape, but that also leaked. What am I doing wrong here?

IMG_1724.jpg
 
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I don't know how to make that fitting work, I used a one way that screwed into my filter and it's output is a male foster. I put my one way in the outlet of my extra filter. I'm not saying this is the perfect way to do it but putting it there creates a chance that moisture condensed in the second filter gets vented when I open the YH vent. I don't know that this occurs but that was my thought. I lose more air when I vent since both filters depressurize. But I don't lose anything from the tank. I also open my tank up without waiting on the pump to get to a similar pressure. The tank cannot pressurize the YH, the one way valve blocks it. I also do not lose any tank air if one of the o-rings on either of the filters fail. That has happened to me.

I bring my 45 minute SCBA from about 3000 to over 4000 in one run of about 15 minutes without exceeding 60 C. But I have a computer radiator and fans on it and in the summer I put some ice bottles in the coolant. If you cannot refill a 30 minute SCBA in one run I'd look for a leak and/or add some cooling. Fan on the body of the pump and/or a radiator for the second stage water. If you don't mind multiple runs you aren't hurting anything but it's pretty easy to put on a radiator and fans.
 
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Went and grabbed a photo..
PXL_20230323_220203401.jpg


I don't remember using it but there's obviously some of the thicker yellow gas line sealant tape on those threads on mine.

I'm almost positive you'll need that plastic seal in there. I vaguely remember needing to put some serious torque on em. I would guess that the seal comes from sandwiching that plastic rather than anything you or I tried on the threads.

And make sure your direction of air flow is correct or it won't have the desired outcome of acting as a backflow valve.
 
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OatmealMu said:
I just got my fittings in today, and I'm getting a bad leak from the threads. How exactly did you create a seal between them? I tried putting the small plastic piece in between the two fittings before screwing them together, but the piece rattled around inside, and I took it out. Unsurprisingly, it leaked from the threads when pressurized. Next, I tried some thread tape, but that also leaked. What am I doing wrong here?
Click to expand...

Are both of these fittings M10/1.0 threaded? Are you sure?
M10 threads do not seal with tape. M10 threads should thread easily by hand fully into each other.

If you are only getting half to 3/4 of a revolution before binding then one of those fittings is BSPP thread.

M10 or bspp fittings seal with delrin washer, dowty seal, or matching tapers like on air hoses.

Ebay and amazon are cheap for a reason. Quality fittings cost.
 
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probably some compatibility issues withe the fittings, yes maybe thread type .. most are bspp, it should seal with no tape, some of the cheap chinese hardware i think they try to make them 'universal' which makes them less than ideal, just my thoughts ... anyway, my strategy is to locate the valve actually at the tank connection .. when i pop the bleeders loose on the yong heng, what want is to purge all the built up moisture out including whats pooling in the filter .. yes its counter intuitive to lose the pressure in the filter, but reality is it only takes a minute to build back up, and now 99% of that moisture is out ..
 
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OatmealMu said:
So, the spare o-ring quickly got shredded. Looks like whatever material they're using isn't up to the task. Anyone know what type of o-ring would work?
Click to expand...
I've repaired a similar part on a hand pump this week.
Got to my hardware store and asked for any o-ring that would fit there. They gave me the very common black one that you find almost everywhere. Seems like it's tougher than the green one.
I tried and it came up working like a charm.
 
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Okay, I'm back with a little update.

For the check valve, I went with one from BEST Fittings. Due to the poor tolerances of the other quick disconnect fittings, I had to move some things around to stop a leak. I was able to top off a 30 minute SCBA tank with no other issues. As for the 400GPH water pump, I ordered a set of 1/4 inch - 7.9mm hose connectors from AliExpress, and the Yong Heng cooling tube fits right over them.

Oh, and one more thing. Should I be concerned that the rubber insert on fill stations' gauge keeps popping out? I happens while I'm filling the tank and when it's just sitting there.
 
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Heavyopp said:
plug pops out under pressure or is it a poor fit and pops out whenever?
Click to expand...

It likes to pop out (with decent force) while under pressure. It happened just yesterday while I was testing the new check valve. I've also had it pop out while it was sitting around not connected to anything. That said, I haven't had the plug pop out "whenever" in a while now. The only changes I recall making are the installation of a dead head and me leaving the bleed screw open when I'm not using it.
 
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