Finishing a unfinished RAW HM1000 LRT Stock - Walnut

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The last issues to deal with as stain dries, is to stabilize knot or wood cracking in the pistol grip and bottle areas. These natural features would be filled in if I was using Tru-oil or Macarri's oil. Because I really don't want a built up finish (filling in and securing potential wood flaking or snags).

Was thinking of injecting a clear, satin expoxy like gell to fill and secure trouble spots or add some walnut dust to an epoxy mix ... To look more natural.

All in all, not in a rush to finish, want to be patient get what I envisioned with the $600 stock.
 
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You can use water thin CA (Super Glue) to penetrate, stabilize and strengthen weak areas in bare wood. Star Bond is where I buy mine from. You can fill voids with wood dust and medium bodied CA but you have to work fast and wear rubber / nitrile gloves. Glu Boost makes an excellent aerosol accelerator that won‘t make the CA blush if you want to speed up the cure time?

Epoxy will also work with much longer working time.
 
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Got two coats of Watco tung oil on the stock and she's starting to look better.
Thanks for the tips guys, will fill gaps starting after a few more coats.

My only regrets is that it's too dark and doesn't adequately show off the grain/prep work involved more so. When I get out of quarantine later today, I'll post some pics.
 
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Got a couple of shots, but forgot the other side?
Have two coats of tung oil and will go for more until pores filled, but don't want a glossy look.

RAW - Stock3.JPG


RAW - Stock4.JPG
 
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igolfat8 said:
You can use water thin CA (Super Glue) to penetrate, stabilize and strengthen weak areas in bare wood. Star Bond is where I buy mine from. You can fill voids with wood dust and medium bodied CA but you have to work fast and wear rubber / nitrile gloves. Glu Boost makes an excellent aerosol accelerator that won‘t make the CA blush if you want to speed up the cure time?

Epoxy will also work with much longer working time.
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How much have you experimented with Gluboost yet? Its a slower setting CA glue that's popular with luthiers and pen turners. I have a custom knife on order, and I asked the maker to leave the maple handle (220 grit) bare, so I can try the Gluboost. I bet it might be a nice option for gun stocks.
 
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I was actually one of their prototype testers years ago, before it was released to the general public. I’ve used all of their glues and aerosol accelerator and they work great. I only use their ”fill and finish” and accelerator now. However, I buy my thick, medium and thin CAs from Star Bond because I can purchase in larger quart and pint quantities at a much lower price point. I’m not a pen or knife maker. Unless you have experience using CA I’d avoid it. The fumes are breath robbing and down right nasty plus the adhesive is dangerous to work around. You can easily bond your skin to each other or to your knife and it’s not fun trying to de-bond it.
 
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Awesome looking stock so far SG. Another tip is if you want a much softer looking finish, rub the cured finish out with a crumpled up brown paper bag (if you can find one)? It will yield a much nicer look than using 0000 steel wool or any 3M pads. If will be just slightly glossier than a steel wool rub down but a much softer glow than a full on gloss finish.
 
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Like usual igolfat8's advice about brown paper bag is great. I also have good rub down advice BUT it costs money, I use a 4/o steel woll sold by Liberon. Instead of a pad that sheds particles, Liberaon in a linear product you cut with siccors. It does not shed. Mohawk sells a lubricating product called wool wax to use with 4/0 steel wool. WOW! Both products are great. Truth be told dish soap could be substituted for wool wax
Pummice and rotten stone and automotive polishing product peers can then be used for high gloss if you desire My gloss results will reflect the end of a yard stick.
 
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Here is a useful tip my dad taught me 50+ years ago. Have you ever re-opened a can of paint or finish only to find it’s rock solid or maybe covered with a thick skin of partially dried paint? The reason is that most finishes cure with exposure to oxygen and when you sealed the can last time you trapped oxygen in the can and caused the curing process to prematurely begin. Next time you close a can take a deep breath then exhale into the can and immediately put the lid on. You have carbon dioxide in your breath which displaces oxygen and stops the premature curing. It’s even better yet to repeat the exhale twice, each time closing, opening and closing the lid as quickly as possible.
 
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Was putting the final coats of lacquer on my HM1000x stock, drying it outside in our 80 degree sunshine.
Came back from work after spraying it on lunch and it had fallen over and the forearm end was chipped/dented!

We got two packages from Amazon and I bet one of the drivers looked at and knocked it over - I think?
The wind just isn't that strong outside my garage.

So now need to re-glue the chip, sand out dent and re-stain finish the end. Not doing the entire stock again, just the damaged spots .... with blending.
 
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