A few weeks ago I traded one of my two Smith and Wesson Model 77A’s for a non functioning Crosman Model 99. I felt good about the trade as I really like lever action pellet rifles and was really interested in the repeater function and being powered by a single 12 gram Co2 cartridge.
Over these last few weeks, I studied the repair manual, diagrams, parts lists, available videos and the internal components of the rifle itself. Many people said this rifle was a challenge to repair due to all the parts. I did not find this to be the case at all. The best way to approach it is to assemble and reassemble the individual modules, just as the repair manual advises. I actually found it easier than the Crosman Trapmaster 1100 Shotgun I resealed for my oldest son.
As for the valve I tore it all the way down except for the large plastic/nylon seal and staked steel washer that held it in place. I replaced every dry rotted seal in the upper and lower chambers of the valve and made sure to use Mac1 secret sauce to reassemble the valve. The only problem area encountered was the exhaust valve seal. I could not get the new seal to seat, possibly due to seal being a little to hard. I decided to fashion my my own seal using a softer material hoping it would conform to the valve seat areas, It Did and no more leaks. At this point I dry fired it a few times on low power and high power. After this I loaded 14, domed 14.3 grain pellets in the pellet feed slot, cocked it with the lever to half power and watched the function of the feed mechanism, pulled hammer back to full power, aimed at a cardboard target 10 yards away in my shop, fired 6 shots and created a line about 1.5 inches wide with two pellets finding the same general location. The pellet feed mechanism worked flawlessly and the spring tension for the feed slot was perfect. My youngest son then finished out the test fire session shooting the remains pellets at a few rock doves and two gophers he bagged 3 rock doves and both gophers. Including these shots and dry firing the initial cartridge until empty we counted 35-40 full power shots could be possible.
The reason this one holds 14 pellets and not 10 is due to the fact that the rear spring guide 99-99 was not present and a second slot was never cut into the receiver as the repair manual suggested. I also feel the rifles valve had never been resealed as parts 38-88 and 38-87 were still in the valve and had not been replaced with a single o-ring 38-130. In addition, the ancient lubricant had dried to a hard sticky substance that resembled fly paper glue. Again here I cleaned everything and used Mac1 secret sauce where appropriate and moly paste on metal to metal wear surfaces, wow is it smooth now.
Now that I have it cleaned up and holding Co2 I plan to take it back down and refinish the wood and repaint the receiver halves. As for the blued parts they look good so a good wipe down is all I plan to do.
Here are a few pictures I took tonight after testing for functionality. Now on to the cosmetics.
The only future goal I have is to find a set of scope mounts that use the two screws on the top of the receiver.
Over these last few weeks, I studied the repair manual, diagrams, parts lists, available videos and the internal components of the rifle itself. Many people said this rifle was a challenge to repair due to all the parts. I did not find this to be the case at all. The best way to approach it is to assemble and reassemble the individual modules, just as the repair manual advises. I actually found it easier than the Crosman Trapmaster 1100 Shotgun I resealed for my oldest son.
As for the valve I tore it all the way down except for the large plastic/nylon seal and staked steel washer that held it in place. I replaced every dry rotted seal in the upper and lower chambers of the valve and made sure to use Mac1 secret sauce to reassemble the valve. The only problem area encountered was the exhaust valve seal. I could not get the new seal to seat, possibly due to seal being a little to hard. I decided to fashion my my own seal using a softer material hoping it would conform to the valve seat areas, It Did and no more leaks. At this point I dry fired it a few times on low power and high power. After this I loaded 14, domed 14.3 grain pellets in the pellet feed slot, cocked it with the lever to half power and watched the function of the feed mechanism, pulled hammer back to full power, aimed at a cardboard target 10 yards away in my shop, fired 6 shots and created a line about 1.5 inches wide with two pellets finding the same general location. The pellet feed mechanism worked flawlessly and the spring tension for the feed slot was perfect. My youngest son then finished out the test fire session shooting the remains pellets at a few rock doves and two gophers he bagged 3 rock doves and both gophers. Including these shots and dry firing the initial cartridge until empty we counted 35-40 full power shots could be possible.
The reason this one holds 14 pellets and not 10 is due to the fact that the rear spring guide 99-99 was not present and a second slot was never cut into the receiver as the repair manual suggested. I also feel the rifles valve had never been resealed as parts 38-88 and 38-87 were still in the valve and had not been replaced with a single o-ring 38-130. In addition, the ancient lubricant had dried to a hard sticky substance that resembled fly paper glue. Again here I cleaned everything and used Mac1 secret sauce where appropriate and moly paste on metal to metal wear surfaces, wow is it smooth now.
Now that I have it cleaned up and holding Co2 I plan to take it back down and refinish the wood and repaint the receiver halves. As for the blued parts they look good so a good wipe down is all I plan to do.
Here are a few pictures I took tonight after testing for functionality. Now on to the cosmetics.
The only future goal I have is to find a set of scope mounts that use the two screws on the top of the receiver.
