Finding optical zero, "part 2"
- Thread starter Tominco
- Start date
Great video. I'm going to try that spin method. Have you compared the results from each method to see if it's the same point?
Did you get the chipmunk?
Thanks Michael
Did you get the chipmunk?
Thanks Michael
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Nice video Tom! Nice to see you describing both mechanical and optical centering because in my experience they don't always match.
I would also add that the spin method doesn't work well with all rings as some are very loose fitting in the saddle until their rings caps are tightened down and the slack is cinched up, BKL rings come to mind that behave like this.
I would also add that the spin method doesn't work well with all rings as some are very loose fitting in the saddle until their rings caps are tightened down and the slack is cinched up, BKL rings come to mind that behave like this.
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Thanks!
No, I haven't compared one to the other. In my opinion, any of these methods gets the scope closer to it's center point which is good optically and mechanically. So, any one of them will put you "ahead of the game" in a sense. Also, you'll eventually click in to your zero, after you make your major adjustments with the rings, and come off that center spot anyway.
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Thanks! You also bring up a good point about the rings. To add to what you said...
Make sure your rings are a good quality with the bases tightened down. I would do this method using solid rings and then move the scope over to the adjustable rings.
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Great video - really informative. I have a question: why do we want to get our scopes optically zeroed?
I have a specific reason for asking. I'm currently zeroed at 55 yds, at approximately middle range of elevation turret, but would like to go to 100 yds and back to 50 repeatedly for target shooting. With current zero, I need to click up > 12 MOA, substantially lowering tension on the elevator spring. Would it be better to try and get the scope zero at 50 yards set at maybe 2 turns down below middle of range (using FX 'no limit' rings), so that when I click up to 100 yds, the elevator turret spring is still under good tension? I'm using an Optisan Genesis 5-20x50.
Look forwards to learning more.
I have a specific reason for asking. I'm currently zeroed at 55 yds, at approximately middle range of elevation turret, but would like to go to 100 yds and back to 50 repeatedly for target shooting. With current zero, I need to click up > 12 MOA, substantially lowering tension on the elevator spring. Would it be better to try and get the scope zero at 50 yards set at maybe 2 turns down below middle of range (using FX 'no limit' rings), so that when I click up to 100 yds, the elevator turret spring is still under good tension? I'm using an Optisan Genesis 5-20x50.
Look forwards to learning more.
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