Filling tank for the first time question - Managing water

Hey, all. I recently acquired a Yong Heng that I haven't fired up yet, but a question on the fill precautions, paticurly for managing the first influx of water saturated air in a new for me tank (30min SCBA). I've read up on the recommended oil/water prefilters (stuff on order) and also long threads on the recommendation for using a PMV (pressure maintaining valve) to allow the mole sieve to extract at a higher efficiency. Since the best use of this valve is for the initial fill, do I really need to worry about that? Not a huge shooter yet, but I do plan to fill to about 4300psi max in my tank and refill at 3000 on the low side as a routine. I do understand that the intial fill is the issue. Is there another was to handle it? For example, plopping in a flow valve to bleed the air into the tank at a slower rate, perhaps even a start/stop sequence until the tank gets up to 3000psi? In a way it acts to increase the back pressure and dwell time for the water filter. Perhaps the cost of the PMV will be similar to a flow valve, so the cost may not a major thing. 

I'm spittballing here with a single course in fluid dynamics...Have at me on recommendations. I know a lot a crap from other areas, but here I'm a noob ;)

How do you handle your first fill from 0-4000 plus PSI?
 
Don't be so quick to dismiss the moisture concern. Reports on gun damage from moisture aren't uncommon. No need for paranoia but do all you can to eliminate the excess moisture. Bleeding off moisture every 5 minutes or so will help with use of the Yong Heng. And I'd bleed off BOTH valves if present at about that interval. A quick open and close is all thats needed.
 
One item that will make filling your tank easier is to put a one-way foster check valve into the inlet side of your 2nd moisture filter, this will let you open your tank valve first and backpressure your filter filled with sieve, Then just start your compressor and close its bleed valve and fill the tank like you were filling a gun. The pressure will build and when equalized will flow to the tank. When your tank is topped off, bleed the compressor and turn it off, then close your tank's valve and bleed the other half of the line. When you do it this way you have much less likelihood of blowing a burst disc. Remember not to fill above 4300 psi or you will still likely blow the burst disc.
 
Edited and Current 3/21

Here is my standard post to all things Yong Heng hope it is helpful.

The Yong Heng "Simple" version least expensive does not have a water separator you need one.

The "Auto Stop" version shuts off near 3000psi probly not a good thing for most people.

So you likely want the "Hardcover" or "Set Pressure" versions your choice on the 110V or 220V.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32824234795.html?spm=a2g0o.store_home.productList_13760454.subject_2

Never start them under pressure. I should have put this in here sooner.

Give them a dedicated 15amp outlet 20 would be better. They draw a bit of juice on start up especially the brand new ones. Don’t Use an extension cord unless it is short and has an honest 15+ amp rating. Preferably 12ga wire so you will not have problems.

Keep them cool and filled with oil. ISO 46 may no longer be recommended although I used it for a year without failure. I am currently using the Husky Brand Synthetic or synthetic blend oil, found at Home Depot, for two years now without a problem. Top it off to the red circle in the sight glass.

Don't push your air fill past the compressor’s spec which is 4350psi. A little less is usually better than the max, and the Yong Heng should last for years unless you get a bad one.

I did my first oil change at about an hour, it was extremely dark colored. I went far longer, between changes, after that.

I have two YH compressors bought the second as a backup for the first as I, fergot to turn on the coolant pump several times and, overheated it until it smoked. It did not like it but it continued to run just fine. Still I did not trust it after that. I added a switched outlet, to the system, so it turns the pump on before the compressor will power up to keep me from doing that from now on.

The second one, my back up unit, died in about two months bad QC from the factory. Cost me $12 for a new second stage piston and an hours’ time to replace it. Then to add insult to injury I fergot to put oil in, the latest unit after I put it back together, and ran it for a couple of minutes without any. So I filled it with oil and it fired up and somehow still werqs fine. The #1 unit that I was worried about, cuz I overheated it so many times, just kept on filling my guns and tanks till I got #2 repaired and retired it.

I do not fill past 4200psi as when I do, all too often, I blow a burst disc. This may not happen on the first or second fill but soon thereafter it will.

The temperature sensor only measures head temperature so running it much over 20-30 minutes can overheat the motor and other parts even if ice is used in the coolant. Ice or a container of it, in the coolant, is a good idea especially if you are like me and do not use the full five gallons of water as suggested in the manual.

Keep your water supply level with the compressor to be kind to the pump and assure a good supply of coolant goes through the compressor.

I recently started using this Red Line water treatment after I noticed algae growth in my 2.5 gallon water bucket every few months. It seems to have stopped or significantly slowed the algae growth. I will know more in a few months.

https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze-radiator-additives-and-windshield-wash-fluid/coolant-water-wetter-additive/red-line-water-wetter-super-coolant-12oz/486218_0_0

Keep your moisture filters, guns and tanks being filled above the compressor to help keep the moisture out.

Purge the system of moisture, using the screw valves on both sides of the compressor, for a couple of seconds every five minutes while in use.

Change out your small YH filter every twenty minutes and set the old one out to dry and reuse later.

Add a better filter if needed to be sure more moisture and any oil smell is removed from the system. Many of us use this Tuxing three media filter although, if you feel the need, you can change media types at any time.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32891898253.html

A smaller one will probly do for some.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000960926898.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2a034c4dL0nrJU

Possibly a filter similar to this if humidity is high in your area and your desiccant filters have to be replaced often.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/30MPa-High-Pressure-Air-Filter-Oil-Water-Separator-For-Air-Pump-Air-Tank/402600939671?hash=item5dbce2d097:g:pRoAAOSwy41f00pY

Bleed the pressure before you turn the unit off and let it run a few seconds to get the better part of the moisture out of the system. I have found that I blow less burst discs if I bleed before shutting down so I do this religiously.

Let the coolant pump run for a few minutes after shutdown to cool things off.



Info on the radiator install.

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/yet-another-yong-heng-mod/?referrer=1

Here is a video on how to fill a SCBA tank.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=157&v=_grx5p_R8D4&feature=emb_title


 
Thanks for the post Biohazardman. This will be my working bible with the YH. I will also order the Filtertechs synthetic oil to keep it healthy. Should be a fun startup of the unit, and I'm hoping for the best. I received mine this past Wednesday and have a 15 day return window (fleabay) to make sure it's in good working order so a lot of parts coming in between time.

Would indicating silica gel be good to put in the small YH oil filter or overkill given I'll have a tuxing like filter beyond it?
 
The small cotton filter does a good job of catching moisture and any oil that gets mixed in. Using silica might miss the oil and it would need to be changed often, 15 to 30 minutes depending on your environment. I set the used cotton filter on a shelf and let it dry for a couple days and then put it into a Mason jar with others. I have some beads in the jar so I can see if they don't get completely dry. So far I'm good. The cotton filters are cheap so they are easy to throw out when they start getting dirty.

Would indicating silica gel be good to put in the small YH oil filter or overkill given I'll have a tuxing like filter beyond it?