Figuring out my FX Maverick compact

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Duceduce23

Member
Aug 25, 2021
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California, United States
I have a question for you all. I have had my maverick for a few months now and I'm still figuring it out and getting used to it. My question is when I have it sighted in at 50yrds at power level 7 when I turn the powerwheel down its obviously not hitting the same spot I get it, less power. How would I figure out how to adjust where I am aiming for each time I am lowering or raising the power wheel? So confused... I also have a scope on it which I might end up trying to sell to get an exposed turret scope. Thanks
 
Less power "normally" means that the point of impact will be lower than with a higher power level.

BUT, as I was shooting one of my springer pistols yesterday, I was shooting on the lower lever (of two). Then I tried the higher power level, the pellets point of impact "dropped", it didn't go up as I had thought that it would..! I shot both low and high power several times, all...with the same outcome (same pellet).

But as I said, "normally", if sighted in at one power level, lowering the power level will lower the pellets point of impact.

Because I shoot 25 yards or less, there's no reason for my guns to be shooting at 900fps. So I lowered the power of "all" of my adjustable guns (including my .22, Maverick Compact) in the last week or so. In only one gun was the point of impact much lower. One gun was "slightly" lower, and the rest, had no point of impact change at all. You have to figure out what your gun is doing.

Shoot targets on paper, this way you'll know exactly what's happening to the pellets point of impact.

Mike
 
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I feel like there should be a way right? It makes no sense...for instance if I am going out knowing I'll be taking longer shots and need power but also doing some barn pest control my shots will be way off. I'm just not sure why it has the powerwheel other than the reason you stated. I have to zero scope every time I change the power on it
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Correct ! Some of that depends on the pellet weight. A light pellet might not drop as much as a heavier pellet, It also depends on the shooting distance 1

You can't fight...gravity !

Mike
 
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This will take a good bit of shooting to figure out. Also would be helpful to have a scope with mildots. So for example, zero scope at 50 yards on power 7. Then when you turn the power wheel down to 2. Start at 50yds and see what the holdover is. write that down. then do the same at 40, 30, 20. Then you will know what mildot you need to use at what distance. Hope that makes sense.
 
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This is the unfortunate hitch of owning a rifle like the Maverick, Impact, Crown, etc. You'll chase a good tune on the rifle until you feel you have it figured out. But there's always a thought that it could be better so, you find yourself in a seemingly never-ending tune chase. Or, right about the time you get it figured out, there's a new barrel design released or a new pellet design. It's actually a quite brilliant marketing plan! 

I wish I could offer some advise for your current tuning question. I moved away from those types of rifles for the very reason of an endless tune and a seemingly endless supply of new "gadgetry" that continues to come out. I agree with lancehenley1's approach. 

I wish you the best with your Maverick! My 2 cents of advise would be that once you find the tune for that rifle, leave it alone. If you want to change calibers, barrel lengths, rifle setups (long to short), from pellets to slugs, or even like you mentioned about going from long distance to barn pest control... just buy another one in the configuration you're looking for. Doing so will simplify things for you and allow you to actually go and shoot for enjoyment rather than continuously sitting behind a chrony chasing, or re-chasing, a tune job. 
 
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I have a question for you all. I have had my maverick for a few months now and I'm still figuring it out and getting used to it. My question is when I have it sighted in at 50yrds at power level 7 when I turn the powerwheel down its obviously not hitting the same spot I get it, less power. How would I figure out how to adjust where I am aiming for each time I am lowering or raising the power wheel? So confused... I also have a scope on it which I might end up trying to sell to get an exposed turret scope. Thanks
Click to expand...

What caliber do you have? Do you have a chronograph? let me know and I can give you some more information at I have 2 of these and they are great. 
 
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Yea I agree, I have an optisan 4x16 right now that I'll sell and get one with turrets. Any recommendations on a good scope? Another thing I noticed with the optisan for me at least is the mil dots are hard to see especially when zoomed all the way in. I have a Leopold on my hunting rifle and those lines are extremely clear compared to that one. 
 
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So you decide to zero your scope on high power shoot a bunch of targets then move in to closer range turn ur gun down to lower power so you don't go threw walls or roof setting figure out what your average yardage would be inside a barn or building and fire multiple times times at a target most scopes you can get with mildots in the reticle and see where it lines up in your scope I would use a ffp scope so your mildots don't change distances when adjusting your scope magnification the just make notes of your different aim points in the scope it's kind of same concept of using hold over for longer distances but ffp scope is important because magnification change can change aiming points hopefully that makes sense to you didn't explain very well 
 
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This is the way to do it:

  1. Zero at max power, at the rounds apex distance (the distance the round stops rising, usually 40 yards or so depending on the caliber and rifle power).
  2. Turn power wheel to desired level.
  3. Shoot the same ammo at the same distance and see where it lands on the target, and remember it, as that's your zero for that power level.
  4. Do 2 and 3 for any other power levels you are interested in.
    [/LIST=1]
 
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You have to standardize somewhat like only shoot one projectile. I've got a Maverick Sniper .25 and I created a 'dope card' which is actually a piece of tape on the side of the rifle that has a table I worked up with the PW (power wheel) number and what MIL dot elevation holdover on the recticle is needed to hit. So I don't adjust or rezero the scope, I use the graduated recticle like it's meant to be used.



Note also that I zero to 85 yards so I'm 3" high at 50 and 3" low at 100 (where my FPS is 925 to 950)
 
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