Feinwerkbau 124D question

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GoldenStateAIRGUNer

GoldenStateAIRGUNer

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Dec 2, 2018
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Ca, United States
I pulled the stock off my Jnc stamped 124D because I wanted to try a different approach on the
the forearm fasteners. I made brass flat washers and used them under the external toothed
star washers but they still slowly came loose. I decided to try a #10 internal toothed lock washer
this time. In both attempts I used Vibra-Tite VC-3 on all three machine screw stock fasteners.
When I had the stock off I noticed the receiver lug screw didn't appear to be bottomed out. I checked
it and it was loose. Probably a good full turn loose ! Has anyone else had this problem? After getting
it back together I ran some shots over my chronograph.


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Sicumj said:
I have a Deluxe and a couple standards. One thing I noticed is they can loosen up over time. I sealed all the inside of the stocks with polyurethane. Torque seems to hold now. I think the stocks on mine were drying out and dimensions shrunk on the stocks. Just food for thought.
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Are you talking stock fasteners or the receiver lug? My forward trigger guard machine screw
never comes loose. The two forearm screws are a pain in the butt ! The forearm star washers
are a joke directly on the wood. I know some have made brass cups to insert into the forearm
wells but my brass washers that I made do the same thing.
 
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I use beeswax furniture spray as my pellet lube, it is also water repellant. I remove the action and spray repeatedly beeswax into the stock, especially where the wood has been cut away for inletting. The beeswax is good for your stock so no worries about getting it on the finnish. After drying reassemble and see if your stick screws stay tighter for longer... I also use a very small dab of blue loctite, but vefire installing the screw, wipe off most of it with your finger, this is all that is needed, most people use way to much !!! On my TX, I just retightened and reset my stock screws after almost 3 years since the last time.
 
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AirShot said:
I use beeswax furniture spray as my pellet lube, it is also water repellant. I remove the action and spray repeatedly beeswax into the stock, especially where the wood has been cut away for inletting. The beeswax is good for your stock so no worries about getting it on the finnish. After drying reassemble and see if your stick screws stay tighter for longer... I also use a very small dab of blue loctite, but vefire installing the screw, wipe off most of it with your finger, this is all that is needed, most people use way to much !!! On my TX, I just retightened and reset my stock screws after almost 3 years since the last time.
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Like I mentioned, the humidity in northern California isn't a issue for wood. I use Johnson Paste furniture wax
on my stock after refinishing it with Birchwood Tru‐Oil. I wonder if using the paste wax on the inner surfaces
of the stock would be just as effective as beeswax? I have had better luck with Vibra-Tite VC-3 than I have
with the Loctite blue.
 
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I always use Loctite 37509 Klean'N Prime when I use a Loctite product. I worked in industrial maintenance and conveyers were notorious for bearings coming loose. We used Loctite at first without much luck. I found some loctite pieces not set up well. Loctite rep recommended the above product for a primer prior to 242 application and there was a real difference. IMO it is a requirement when using Loctite products.

I have not tried Vibra-Tite but may after reading positive results.
 
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Sicumj said:
I always use Loctite 37509 Klean'N Prime when I use a Loctite product. I worked in industrial maintenance and conveyers were notorious for bearings coming loose. We used Loctite at first without much luck. I found some loctite pieces not set up well. Loctite rep recommended the above product for a primer prior to 242 application and there was a real difference. IMO it is a requirement when using Loctite products.

I have not tried Vibra-Tite but may after reading positive results.
Click to expand...
Vibra-Tite VC-3 is a interesting material. Comes out like Loctite but dries very rapidly
and then you assemble. It will dry within a couple minutes.
 
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kingfisher61 said:
Try buying a couple of hex head screws. They tighten much better than the original flat heads.
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By " flat heads" I assume you're talking about a slot drive screw head ? That would be nice but
22 in lbs. is 22 in lbs. no matter what type of drive you use. Slot screw drives are easy to bugger
up especially if you don't use a hollow ground slot drive.
 
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