Lead's coefficient of expansion is over twice that of steel. Heating the barrel heats the lead as well so wouldn't it just get tighter?
Upvote 0
- The AGN App is ready! Search "Airgun Nation" in your App store. To compliment this new tech we've assigned the "Threads" Feed & "Dark" Mode. To revert back click HERE.
Feel free to call me stupid..... Or help clearing pellets stuck in barrel
- Thread starter Privateer
- Start date
I would not necessarily count on the expansion of the steel. Lead has a bit over double the thermal expansion coefficient of steel. So theoretically the lead will expand more than the steel for the same temperature increase.
Thermal Expansion - Linear Expansion Coefficients
Linear temperature expansion coefficients for common materials like aluminum, copper, glass, iron and many more.
www.engineeringtoolbox.com IMO heating till the lead gets soft but not molten will proivde the best opportunity to drive them out. Regards
Upvote 0
Well. Tomorrow we gonna find out!
I've had the barrel soaking with WD-40 for a few days to see of that helps.
They come out or I'll trash that barrel and call it a learning experiance.
I've had the barrel soaking with WD-40 for a few days to see of that helps.
They come out or I'll trash that barrel and call it a learning experiance.
Upvote 0
I wouldn't try heating I drove out 2 slugs caught up by the choke last weekend I used a solid cleaning rod and small brass hammer with a jag on the end they were hollow point so the jag went into the first. Slug a ways as I was driving them out the way they came in inspected the barrel and it looked fine if you do heat it I wouldn't go to nuts on it just enough to help soften the lead some
Upvote 0
If you've soaked it in WD40 please be very careful with heating it since WD40 has a low flash point. Get as much out as you can before you heat. Also if any gets between pellets and it combusts...
Just make sure each end of the barrel is pointed in a safe direction when heating..Upvote 0
There's 5 in the barrel and I sure did plant them solid! Trust me they are NOT coming out without a fight!
Upvote 0
I was thinking to look down the barrel as I heated it.If you've soaked it in WD40 please be very careful with heating it since WD40 has a low flash point. Get as much out as you can before you heat. Also if any gets between pellets and it combusts...
Ummm.... not gonna be even close to doing something THAT stupid!
It's like the Guy in the insane asylum. "I'm here because I'm insane! Not Stupid"
Upvote 0
I hadn’t considered that. Your probably right. What about freezing it? Would it stand to reason that the lead would contract 2X more than steel ?
Upvote 0
So that actuall consensis is.......
Good luck you stupid arse!
LOL!
Not to worry. I'll post any dumb stuff that may or may not happen for others to learn.
Good luck you stupid arse!
LOL!
Not to worry. I'll post any dumb stuff that may or may not happen for others to learn.
Upvote 0
Ok, no offense intended, it was just the first thing that came to my mind when I read WD40. Regards
Upvote 0
Not a problem Mate. Somtimes I'm a bit of a failed comedian and it's hard to show that in a post.
So I hope I did not offend you.
Upvote 0
I would ask FX how much heat the liner can stand. I read in a few places that many steel alloys can take almost 900 F without changing the temper / hardness. We saved a TC pistol barrel from having to mechanically remove a stuck hard cast bullet by placing it in an oven set to just over 600.
engineering.stackexchange.com
At what temperature do I risk altering the structure of steel?
If I have structural or tool steel that has been treated to some standard (ASTM, SAE, ISO -- e.g., for hardness) but I don't know the details of the treatment, is there a "safe" temperature below w...
engineering.stackexchange.com Upvote 0
To be honest. It is the older STX barrel. When I checked? A new liner is the Upgraded Supreme so was gonna go that way any who.
Plus gonna get the .30 Barrel kit. The lesson here?
Don't just shoot until things go wrong with a cast slug! CHECK THE BARREL AFTER every SHOT!
Plus gonna get the .30 Barrel kit. The lesson here?
Don't just shoot until things go wrong with a cast slug! CHECK THE BARREL AFTER every SHOT!
Upvote 0
I have no idea what you mean? I've had .30, .357, .50 cal Evanix and felt no recoil.
Maybe a bump but nothing I'd run to Momma and talk about.
Upvote 0
Most recoils I ever felt in an airgun?
Inovairtech MACR in .357
Single rounds compressed to 4500 PSI per round.
That did kick a bit!
Inovairtech MACR in .357
Single rounds compressed to 4500 PSI per round.
That did kick a bit!
Upvote 0
Recoil doesn't mean a kick like a 30.06 from a Garand. A "bump" is recoil. Just enough so you know positively something came out the barrel. My 22 M-rod is a heavy gun and firing pellets I really don't feel any recoil. Of course by law of physics it is recoiling but the recoil is masked by the mechanical action of shooting. I know something came out more because I hear the pellet hit the target.
Upvote 0
I have had a similar experence with an Edgun in .25 cal. I used a 3/16 th wood bit, 14 inches long. Put several wraps of eletrical tape near cutting end and a inch or so apart to prevent steel bit from hitting the barrel. With the barrel removed from action, turned bit by hand to cut into lead and removed bit and shake out cuttings . do this untill you have cut through as many slugs as possible by hand. Then use a carbon fiber rod as large as you can to slip into the muzzel end of barrel . With breech end of barrel on an end grain pice of soft wood tap on carbon rod with medium weight hammer. Mark rod to check on progerss. also check to see if slug is comming out, at which point hold barrel clear of wood . Ad eletrical tape to bit as needed to prevent steel bit from hitting barrel. db
Upvote 0