Two snug fitting drill bits (shank end) with a screwdriver between placed close to work. Hold the tips of bits with one hand to keep them from canting.
Don’t forget the heat.
Dave
Don’t forget the heat.
Dave
Upvote 0
- The AGN App is ready! Search "Airgun Nation" in your App store. To compliment this new tech we've assigned the "Threads" Feed & "Dark" Mode. To revert back click HERE.
Falx suppressor on .25 Airacuda max
- Thread starter Trueshot
- Start date
First off I wanna thank everyone for all the suggestions. I think it's so awesome that so many of you'z guys took the time to try and help me out.
Well after removing the barrel band I was able to unscrew the shroud with a little heat. Dumped out all the baffles and air stripper. The end cap needed a good amount of heat to remove it. So next was the part that I wasn't so sure about. Before I went trying to fashion a tool/wrench or whatever. I wanted to see just how loose or tight the washer bolt was. By the way the owners manual refers to the part as a "Baffle Retaining Cap". I grabbed a drill bit put the chuck end into one of the holes and it was loose enough for me to turn with just that. Easy as pie. Lol. So I flipped the shroud around put it all back together and somehow that fixed my clipping problems. Crazy. I think that maybe the baffle stacks weren't stacked correctly. Should go without saying that I'm so freaking happy with the results. I'm shooting lasers with my DonnyFL Ronin attached. And wouldn't have tried it without finding this thread. Again thanks to everyone of you who chimed in.
Well after removing the barrel band I was able to unscrew the shroud with a little heat. Dumped out all the baffles and air stripper. The end cap needed a good amount of heat to remove it. So next was the part that I wasn't so sure about. Before I went trying to fashion a tool/wrench or whatever. I wanted to see just how loose or tight the washer bolt was. By the way the owners manual refers to the part as a "Baffle Retaining Cap". I grabbed a drill bit put the chuck end into one of the holes and it was loose enough for me to turn with just that. Easy as pie. Lol. So I flipped the shroud around put it all back together and somehow that fixed my clipping problems. Crazy. I think that maybe the baffle stacks weren't stacked correctly. Should go without saying that I'm so freaking happy with the results. I'm shooting lasers with my DonnyFL Ronin attached. And wouldn't have tried it without finding this thread. Again thanks to everyone of you who chimed in.
Upvote 0
New to working on a PCP, does air need to be emptied before doing this ?
Ok, so I see the shroud screws off, if I get it off, can I just chuck it up in a lathe and true up the end and not have to swap ends ?
Ok, so I see the shroud screws off, if I get it off, can I just chuck it up in a lathe and true up the end and not have to swap ends ?
Last edited:
Upvote 0
I would suggest that if you need to apply heat then yes. I didn't really need to apply to much heat on the shroud end nearest the action. Now the cap/adapter end of the shroud definitely needed heat before it would budge. Putting the shroud on a lathe and trying to true it up sounds like your asking for trouble. I would think the risk reward isn't worth it. The shroud is identical on both ends. After you unscrew the shroud from the action, remove shroud. Dump out baffles and air stripper. Unscrew cap/adapter, unscrew washer. Flip shroud around put it all back together and see what happens. Worked for me.
Upvote 0