Skout Everything Skout EVO and Epoch

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Hello again

I just got my SEKHMET gauges and they are great!!
They really do assist in properly adjusting your pressure regulators.
In the process of setting up my pellet speeds i also kept notes on different sound signatures with both the stock air stripper and the whisper moderator with and without the insert and pellets.
Keep in mind that at my end of the world it is 40c and the cicadas are way noisier than any air rifle, however the conditions were the same for all tests.
Unfortunately my target is only 6 meters away from me and has a steel plate for a backstop, so that noise definately comes into play here.
My conclusion is that everything is as clear as mud!
Except for the fact that the Whisper moderator makes no noticeable difference what so ever from the stock air stripper
My speeds were slightly higher with the tube insert in the whisper mod, but i guess that it is so, because in essence i am increasing the barrel length slightly???
Don't know, so i am attaching a spreadsheet with my findings.
Have at it and let me know your conclusions if you like.
I am hoping to go to the range over the weekend and try all this again at 50 meters and also check for accuracy and consistency.
Thank you for indulging me.

Scan_20250722.jpg
 
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Hello to everyone again.

I endured temperatures of 40+celcius albeit for 30 minutes for the good of science...lol

I did not like that I could not come up with a definitive answer on the dB of the moderators yesterday, so I was at it again today.
The fact that they were all playing withing +-1 dB difference with a pellet yesterday got me thinking that my target noise was a problem.
I was aware that having the steel backstop only 6 meters away would have an effect on the sound , i just did not realize how much of an effect!!
I will not bore you any further so here are my final results from today, while using plumbers putty to silence the impact to the backstop.
The stock Skout air stripper in a .22 cal Evo ( or epoch) is at it's worst +- 1-2 db quiter than the Whisper moderator.
The Whisper moderator is over 100 dB always +- 1-3 db and does have a metallic clang to it.
For Mr Tricky-Dicky, it is definitaly not the hammer mechanism that creates that sound ( at least in my case).
Now after installing the little tube which i will attach below, i managed to get it down to +-91-93 db with a pellet.
That is a huge difference in sound, to my ears and in numbers.
I think it's something like a difference of 6 dB is double the power of the sound ( don't take my word for it, i am no expert but my ears verified the differences).

Conclusion I will not be sending the Whisper moderator back (although i should) because I live in Europe and it's too much of a hassle, plus my mod worked and I now have it down to backyard friendly levels, which it is definitely NOT as it comes from Skout for a .22
Donnyfl moderators would be the way to go from what i hear for backyard friendly ( i do not own one).

I will attach an stl file for anyone who has the Whisper moderator to print and try out for themselves.
I have printed it in GF abs and i have a very well calibrated 3d printer so my dimension came out exact, so no pellet clipping what so ever.

Sorry to have bored you with a long post yet again, I can only hope that some of you might find it helpfull.
Ok apparently you can't attach .stl files (new to this) pm me if anyone wants the stl.

Enjoy your shooting.

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Well, I would like to report back to everybody that I now have no leaks on the rear of my gun.
I put the plug in the block as well as Teflon taped the screws.
I figured the screws are another source of where Air could possibly escape if it makes it past any of the O-rings.
I did another slow Mo video and no bubbles whatsoever.

Now I’m gonna go outside and chronograph my shots and see if it made a change in consistency with speed.

now I’m going to go test my Epoch and see if there is leaks as well.

I’ll report back with chronograph results


IMG_7804.jpeg
 
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dp621 said:
@MSR Workshop , where did you find a plug to go in the evo? Or do you happen to have any pics? I've been eyeing up an evo but would hate to constantly be chasing air leaks.
Click to expand...
Had my epoch for two years now and no air leaks (skout guns are excellent).
The point of plugging up the breach is to find some more consistent standard deviation for optimal performance.
The air relief from the breach is said by skout as a safety feature for blocked breaches.
 
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dp621 said:
@MSR Workshop , where did you find a plug to go in the evo? Or do you happen to have any pics? I've been eyeing up an evo but would hate to constantly be chasing air leaks
Click to expand...
So, one of the forum members made it for me.
pretty sure any machine shop could make one for you. Should only take 5 mi to make.

here are the measurements.


For you self doers ...
If you have a lathe ? .... super simple part.
O.D. is .348"
O-ring groove @ .080" wide by @ .060" deep
O-ring #009 buna. 90 Duro
OAL @ .170"

it’s an exact fit. o-ring takes a little bit of coaxing in so if you get one made take the poppet seat out first and push the plug in. the edge of the block hole that you’re installing it in is sharp so be careful not to shear the O-ring. I used a small pick to ease it in.
 
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Timo said:
Had my epoch for two years now and no air leaks (skout guns are excellent).
The point of plugging up the breach is to find some more consistent standard deviation for optimal performance.
The air relief from the breach is said by skout as a safety feature for blocked breaches.
Click to expand...
Yep. Because I’m shooting .177 it is so sensitive to changes So I’m chasing every advantage I can find. Any larger caliber I’m sure it’s negligible And you probably don’t need it….. but I can’t say for sure because I’m not shooting my .30 enough to definitely say.….

these gun are a dream to work on and tinker with. I have 2 Skouts and I wouldn’t hesitate to buy them again !
i highly recommend
 
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MSR Workshop said:
So, one of the forum members made it for me.
pretty sure any machine shop could make one for you. Should only take 5 mi to make.

here are the measurements.


For you self doers ...
If you have a lathe ? .... super simple part.
O.D. is .348"
O-ring groove @ .080" wide by @ .060" deep
O-ring #009 buna. 90 Duro
OAL @ .170"

it’s an exact fit. o-ring takes a little bit of coaxing in so if you get one made take the poppet seat out first and push the plug in. the edge of the block hole that you’re installing it in is sharp so be careful not to shear the O-ring. I used a small pick to ease it in.
Click to expand...
I do have a small lathe and some aluminum stock that could probably take care of this real quick. Thank you for the specs and sharing your experience, this is great!
 
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MSR Workshop said:
Yep. Because I’m shooting .177 it is so sensitive to changes So I’m chasing every advantage I can find. Any larger caliber I’m sure it’s negligible And you probably don’t need it….. but I can’t say for sure because I’m not shooting my .30 enough to definitely say.….

these gun are a dream to work on and tinker with. I have 2 Skouts and I wouldn’t hesitate to buy them again !
i highly recommend
Click to expand...
Good to know! I've been going back and forth between the .25 and .30 but leaning towards starting with the .30 and swapping to other calibers in the future.
 
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dp621 said:
Good to know! I've been going back and forth between the .25 and .30 but leaning towards starting with the .30 and swapping to other calibers in the future.
Click to expand...
Love the skout guns build quality is excellent only a few miner downsides electronic trigger nice to have but not uk competition friendly yet and the weight is close to the mark.
Good luck to you all and keep tinkering/experimenting
 
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dp621 said:
Good to know! I've been going back and forth between the .25 and .30 but leaning towards starting with the .30 and swapping to other calibers in the future.
Click to expand...
IMO, the best caliber to start with on the Skout is a .22 with the Lothar Walther barrel(optional barrel)
This gives you the flexability of using both slugs and pellets from the same barrel.
Also with the recent price increase, the .22 is cheaper to shoot.
For pellets, i'd go with the JTS 22.07g @960-980 fps
For slugs, the most accurate that i have used are the Altaros Kings 40g @885-900 fps
Both are very accurate and are capable of competition shooting
Mike
 
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manabeknives said:
IMO, the best caliber to start with on the Skout is a .22 with the Lothar Walther barrel(optional barrel)
This gives you the flexability of using both slugs and pellets from the same barrel.
Also with the recent price increase, the .22 is cheaper to shoot.
For pellets, i'd go with the JTS 22.07g @960-980 fps
For slugs, the most accurate that i have used are the Altaros Kings 40g @885-900 fps
Both are very accurate and are capable of competition shooting
Mike
Click to expand...
I would say I would agree.
I shoot the .177 because that’s the style of shooting I currently do and it’s quite backyard friendly. The .22 is as well.
The 30 definitely gets a bit too noisy if you’re in a small space, but it is a great caliber for long range. It hits really hard. it’s great fun to shoot but my little 19y backyard range if a bit overkill 😂
 
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manabeknives said:
IMO, the best caliber to start with on the Skout is a .22 with the Lothar Walther barrel(optional barrel)
This gives you the flexability of using both slugs and pellets from the same barrel.
Also with the recent price increase, the .22 is cheaper to shoot.
For pellets, i'd go with the JTS 22.07g @960-980 fps
For slugs, the most accurate that i have used are the Altaros Kings 40g @885-900 fps
Both are very accurate and are capable of competition shooting
Mike
Click to expand...
Hi
I fully agree with you on the .22 LW barrel and the JTS 22.07gr, i have just that setup and i am going to pstart putting through it's paces as of tomorrow.
I have however had some issues with leaks.
My rifle is a month old and only has about 750 pellets through it.
First the fill nipple valve o ring got clipped and all the air came rushing back out to the compressor (easy enough fix).
I usually degass the gun and recently when regassing it the air would leak out of the LP regulator.
Turns out in order to get it to about 190 psi as suggested , it was wound too far out (running 1400psi HP at 970 fps).
I brought it down to 140 psi and that seems to have fixed that (most of the time).
Then my bottle valve started leaking and finally i can not store it pressurized with anything above 1500 psi as it leaks.
Do you guys store it pressurized or empty??
 
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manabeknives said:
If i am shooting the next day or 2, i will leave my rifle pressurized, but if it will be a week or more, i will degass the system.
Click to expand...
Cool thanks
Does your HP gauge cone straight back to the set psi or does it come back to the general area and slowly creep up towards the set pressure?
All my gauges are digital now so I am seeing things which I was not aware of before.
 
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Ada said:
Hi
I fully agree with you on the .22 LW barrel and the JTS 22.07gr, i have just that setup and i am going to pstart putting through it's paces as of tomorrow.
I have however had some issues with leaks.
My rifle is a month old and only has about 750 pellets through it.
First the fill nipple valve o ring got clipped and all the air came rushing back out to the compressor (easy enough fix).
I usually degass the gun and recently when regassing it the air would leak out of the LP regulator.
Turns out in order to get it to about 190 psi as suggested , it was wound too far out (running 1400psi HP at 970 fps).
I brought it down to 140 psi and that seems to have fixed that (most of the time).
Then my bottle valve started leaking and finally i can not store it pressurized with anything above 1500 psi as it leaks.
Do you guys store it pressurized or empty??
Click to expand...
I actually find that if I leave my guns pressurized a little bit when I do the refill, I don’t get any leaks out of the high-pressure regulator.
There’s also a very small O-ring in the high-pressure regulator that I replaced it was causing the leak. You’ll have to look back on this thread and you’ll see the pictures of what I did.
It’s located on the needle valve inside the high-pressure regulator.
Also leaving a gas a little bit is a good way to tell if you have any slow leaks overtime.
 
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