Ever get a cleaning wad stuck in the barrel???

[JohnWicck]

First off it didn’t happen BUT….
First time cleaning the HW100, I must say I was a little nervous.
As per a few utube videos I threaded fishing string down the barrel and tied on a cleaning wad (w/bore cleaning solution) and pulled it through.
I repeated this a few times and it did job.
The point of this post is this: Although it pulled through, it all seemed quiet snug along the way. Effective cleaning method but I couldn’t help thinking this string could snap any second.
Is there a more foolproof method?
Should I get heavier string?
Has anyone ever had this nightmare scenario happen?

 

[Healthservices]

SHOOT IT OUT?





with no pellet just air.





but no

 

[dizzums]

ive got rods almost stuck before especially trying to clean from the muzzle and having to reverse without enough room to push it all the way through .. but yeah a wad only shoot it out .. i wouldnt aim it towards your wifes favorite sweater either lol .. or anything else that might get stained from a greasy black wad splattering on it at a few hundred fps ...

..

 

[Marley5]

I use 50lb braid fishing line and tie on 3 cleaning pads at a time, speeds up the process. 

Never had pads get lodged. 

 

[elh0102]

With the HW100 you have very little room in the loading area to get your patch started. With a Patchworm, the button adds an additional space need, and it's very difficult. Plus, you have the breech O ring to consider, which is in the breech block, not the barrel. I much prefer to simply remove the barrel and clean from the breech. Since the O ring remains in the breech block module, you don't have that concern. I'm extra sensitive to taking care of the breech O ring in this rifle, since replacing it isn't real easy, because it's not in the barrel. Luckily though, the barrel comes off very easily, just unscrew the cylinder, and a single grub screw holds the barrel. A thorough cleaning is then very easy. 

 

[JohnWicck]

Thanks guys
shooting it out. Such an obvious solution, I’m embarrassed for not thinking of it.
I field strip my 1911’s for cleaning all the time but I haven’t yet mustard up the courage to break down the rifle.
What’s a “Grub screw” ? The screw under the stock securing the cylinder/barrel ring?
Or what looks like a set screw on the forward scope mount? ( in which case naturally the scope would need to be removed)

 

[elh0102]

Don't have to remove scope. Remove the 2 screws that secure the stock and separate stock and barreled action. Unscrew the air cylinder and remove (you'll hear some air escape for a few seconds). With cylinder off, you will see the small grub screw holding the barrel in place. It's a small hex head screw that tightens below the surface of its threaded hole. It goes in at about a 45 degree angle, just under breech of the barrel, and just above where the cylinder attaches. With it loosened, the barrel simply slides out. 

 

[JohnWicck]

Thank you sir
Sounds pretty straight forward. Definitely not an intimidating breakdown.
Much appreciated

 

[austin870]

If you can get fishing line by the wad to pull back against it the wad is not stuck too bad. I would think shooting it out would not be smart. Where will the air go if the wad completely blocking the barrel does not move? It may easily blow out or damage some O rings etc or worse. Some wad material is very dense when compacted. 

(Lesson is don't get greedy on having really tight cleaning pulls and don't clean any more often than absolutely necessary)

If using a rod, which you should NOT be doing IMO, because it is totally unnecessary in an airgun and you can't get a rod guide in a PCP even if you remove the barrel. You do not want to take a rod from crown down.. period. The best way is to remove the barrel but you really don't have to. Soak the crap out of the wad by pointing barrel down and pouring a lot of oil or non-evaporative solvent/oil down the barrel. Rest the crown on a rag. Let it soak for hours or overnight. Once soggy it will decompress, become pliable and be slick as heck. At that point you can move it with a wooden dowel small enough to comfortably fit down the barrel. Blunt the end with a little sandpaper so no sharp edges just in case.

If using a Patchworm or weedwacker line etc, which you SHOULD be doing IMO..... pull the string as hard as necessary and snap it off. It will always snap at the end that pulled against the obstruction. You may have to put the gun in a vise well wrapped in a T shirt. You may have to wrap the line around a stick or screwdriver to snap it. Once snapped do same procedure.... point barrel down, pour in solution, soak for hours or overnight... then you can move it with a blunted wooden dowel.

 

[elh0102]

I agree, cleaning with a rod is not often, but neither is it never, necessary. I've had lead fouling that would not come out with pull through cleaning. Even though you can't use a rod guide as in most bolt action firearms, cleaning with a rod is not risky if done carefully. Obviously, it should always be done from the breech end. With the barrel held firmly in place in a padded vice, it is not difficult at all to keep it centered in the barrel, pushing it all the way through, and being sure not to bang around the crown. Of course the barrel has to be off the rifle, and preferably with no silencer attached. I've never needed to use a rod and brush on my HW100, but I always remove the barrel for cleaning.

 

[elh0102]

Delete, duplicate post.

 

[elh0102]

Delete, duplicate post.

 

[loneranger]

shoot it out or use brass rod and push it out. 

 

[elh0102]

Delete, duplicate post.

 

[austin870]

I agree, cleaning with a rod is not often, but neither is it never, necessary. I've had lead fouling that would not come out with pull through cleaning. Even though you can't use a rod guide as in most bolt action firearms, cleaning with a rod is not risky if done carefully. Obviously, it should always be done from the breech end. With the barrel held firmly in place in a padded vice, it is not difficult at all to keep it centered in the barrel, pushing it all the way through, and being sure not to bang around the crown. Of course the barrel has to be off the rifle, and preferably with no silencer attached. I've never needed to use a rod and brush on my HW100, but I always remove the barrel for cleaning.

As far as I know rod guides are specifically designed for cleaning bolt actions because every benchrest shooter uses one from rimfire to 6mm You think it is centered in the barrel but it is not. If thinking you were centered was good enough there would be no rod guides. 

 

[elh0102]

I agree, cleaning with a rod is not often, but neither is it never, necessary. I've had lead fouling that would not come out with pull through cleaning. Even though you can't use a rod guide as in most bolt action firearms, cleaning with a rod is not risky if done carefully. Obviously, it should always be done from the breech end. With the barrel held firmly in place in a padded vice, it is not difficult at all to keep it centered in the barrel, pushing it all the way through, and being sure not to bang around the crown. Of course the barrel has to be off the rifle, and preferably with no silencer attached. I've never needed to use a rod and brush on my HW100, but I always remove the barrel for cleaning.

As far as I know rod guides are specifically designed for cleaning bolt actions because every benchrest shooter uses one from rimfire to 6mm You think it is centered in the barrel but it is not. If thinking you were centered was good enough there would be no rod guides.

Exactly right. The big difference with air rifles, with the barrel removed and held securely, you can easily keep the rod from contacting the bore by using your fingers as the guide. 

 

[austin870]

I agree, cleaning with a rod is not often, but neither is it never, necessary. I've had lead fouling that would not come out with pull through cleaning. Even though you can't use a rod guide as in most bolt action firearms, cleaning with a rod is not risky if done carefully. Obviously, it should always be done from the breech end. With the barrel held firmly in place in a padded vice, it is not difficult at all to keep it centered in the barrel, pushing it all the way through, and being sure not to bang around the crown. Of course the barrel has to be off the rifle, and preferably with no silencer attached. I've never needed to use a rod and brush on my HW100, but I always remove the barrel for cleaning.

As far as I know rod guides are specifically designed for cleaning bolt actions because every benchrest shooter uses one from rimfire to 6mm You think it is centered in the barrel but it is not. If thinking you were centered was good enough there would be no rod guides.

Exactly right. The big difference with air rifles, with the barrel removed and held securely, you can easily keep the rod from contacting the bore by using your fingers as the guide.

I agree, cleaning with a rod is not often, but neither is it never, necessary. I've had lead fouling that would not come out with pull through cleaning. Even though you can't use a rod guide as in most bolt action firearms, cleaning with a rod is not risky if done carefully. Obviously, it should always be done from the breech end. With the barrel held firmly in place in a padded vice, it is not difficult at all to keep it centered in the barrel, pushing it all the way through, and being sure not to bang around the crown. Of course the barrel has to be off the rifle, and preferably with no silencer attached. I've never needed to use a rod and brush on my HW100, but I always remove the barrel for cleaning.

As far as I know rod guides are specifically designed for cleaning bolt actions because every benchrest shooter uses one from rimfire to 6mm You think it is centered in the barrel but it is not. If thinking you were centered was good enough there would be no rod guides.

Exactly right. The big difference with air rifles, with the barrel removed and held securely, you can easily keep the rod from contacting the bore by using your fingers as the guide.

I was responding to your statement "Even though you can't use a rod guide as in most bolt action firearms". This is simply not true. I just don't think fingers are a zero deflection ramp like a bore guide. 

 

[elh0102]

So, how would one use a rod guide in a HW100?