What epoxy/adhesive would you use for glueing a carbon fiber tube to a stainless barrel? This will need to be a gap filling adhesive
Epoxy for carbon fiber tube
- Thread starter Alpo007
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This for FX? For my Crown I used JB Weld. Heated it with hair dryer to reduce viscosity making it easier to apply. Made a big difference in locking in POI. Highly recommend. ( I initially tried to used carbon fiber tube by taping it in place, much muich better to use epoxy)
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Just a warning that heat makes some epoxies cure faster. Just so somebody doesn't have their resin "pop" half way thru the job.
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You could try any of the available archery glue made for gluing inserts into carbon fiber shafts. Easy application..no mixing epoxy with catalyst. Fletch-Tite would probably work well. Sets in about 2-3 minutes cures in 12 hours and is removable with low heat.
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Different application but same idea..25mm CF tube to RTI end piece..
metal to carbon fiber glued with Fletch-Tite
metal to carbon fiber glued with Fletch-Tite
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I keep West Systems (WS) 205 fast & 206 slow hardener with 105 resin on hand. Mix in 406 colloidal silica to thicken and improve bond between carbon and metal. This has never failed me. WS is expensive, so only get small kits - it mixes at 5:1 ratio and you can do a batch down to 6/2 teaspoons (1/2tsp H to 5, 1/2 tsp R). As an option, G-Flex from WS also works well and may be thickened. Clean up with 90% isopropol alcohol. You will never get this part off with this method. On a side note, I would be careful using any loctite or similar thread locker as they can degrade plastics & composites if not bound in a resin that is inert to thread locker. You will find many ways people go at bonding CF to aluminum, some are better than others.
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I used to use lots of epoxies building cutom fishing rods. I'd use 40 min rod builders epoxy from Mudhole fishing rod supply.
Make snug fitting bushings out of masking tape to center the sleeve.
Brush the mixed epoxy all around the barrel
and stand on end.
The epoxy will settle on the tape bushings and flow into a 360 degree bond.
This worked on unlimited class rods I built for commercial tuna guys. If it'll survive 300lb test stretched between a rod holder and an 800lb bluefin it'll work for an Air Rifle.
It can be taken apart at anytime with heat from a propane torch.
Make snug fitting bushings out of masking tape to center the sleeve.
Brush the mixed epoxy all around the barrel
and stand on end.
The epoxy will settle on the tape bushings and flow into a 360 degree bond.
This worked on unlimited class rods I built for commercial tuna guys. If it'll survive 300lb test stretched between a rod holder and an 800lb bluefin it'll work for an Air Rifle.
It can be taken apart at anytime with heat from a propane torch.
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If any of you move to using West Systems and try the 406 filler, be sure to use a mask and gloves when using the filler. It is an extremely fine white powder that should not be breathed, so wear a mask and gloves and wipe down and or vacuum any spills. Be sure to read all the directions for WS products - they have a great website. https://www.westsystem.com/
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Also, consider Loctite Hysol or Aeropoxy from BVM. 2:1 from an application tube & plunger. Again, no the cheapest but you get what you pay for.
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I use G flex on knife handles. Stuff is really tough and easy to work with. Has a slow set so no need to rush.
If you prep the surfaces and use any decent epoxy it’s not coming apart. Good luck
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Absolutely!
Keep it clean, dry and dull when bonding. I have found both denatured an isopropyl alcohols are really good for cleaning.
Always clean your parts first if you intend to sand - it helps remove oils and contaminants that get embedded in the sandpaper and just end back up on the part. This goes for metals or composites (carbon-fiberglass-kevlar). I learned that for people just getting into epoxies, slow is better. A warm environment will control the cure. Don't work below about 65 degrees or it will take a very prolonged time for many epoxies to set - some will not.
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