Tuning Enjoying the Prod

I've had the gun for about a month now and I've had it down to it's basic components. the valve spring is yellow. I'm really liking the trigger group, I guess this it's the difference between the Benjamin and Crosman... kind of like gmc and chevy ha ha. Delving into the character of the gun, for every one has them, I'm getting a puff of air out of the hammer spring adjustment hole; its why I tore the gun down to pieces to find why. To my reconning its blow by around the valve stem. I tried the b staley oring thing and the power seems to vary. I used 3 small orings that fit snugly on the valve stem. A fresh charge at 3000 had a puh tink velocity to the plinkers until I shot more pellets. Turning the hammer spring adustment with an allen key feels bad like metal grinding metal. The tune I have is about seven turns on the the hammer spring and one turn on the the striker. What I'm after is a gun that sips air and can be adjusted. Feeling the puff of air in my face not going down the barrel is a waste and I would like to remedy it. My across garage range is 25', but I would like to be able to crank it up for more power for greater distances (or louder plinks) if need be. What power adjuster should I look for? Also what does the hammer throw affect, shorter for more impact? And another question; how did the slang for a Marauder pistol go to Prod, raud for rod, p for pistol?
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I was able to use some inherited Gunslick seer grease that was my Grandfather's, what a difference! I was worried about buyers remorse for this PCP gun, but now, not so much :)
 
I use the same grease.

That puff of air usually comes from the breech seal if you feel it.

Try a laying a tissue over the breech at the t-port area. Fire the gun, with a pellet in it and in a safe direction, and see if it moves.

If it does then it's your T-port seal.

There is usually not enough air escaping from the back of the valve to be noticed.

I really enjoy werqing on my Crosman/Benjamin Guns. Makes the stress just fade away.

Power adjuster

https://www.ebay.com/itm/123851520326

EDIT;

The hammer throw is a simple thing more distance between the hammer and valve more power. That is to the point where your hammer smacks the valve or your spring runs out of oomph anyway.
 
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I think the B Staley o ring things are supposed to snug against the inner walls of the tube.

I have been researching power mods that are simple DIY.

Upon further research the factory Crosman parts may fit and can be drilled out for experimental sizes.

Models with drop in sizes varying from 1701 1720 Challenger Discovery Maximus.

I am unsure if the Challenger or Maximus hammer and springs are compatible.

I have a 1701 and 1700 and have been researching simple non mechanically inclined DIY mods.

https://youtu.be/qoJnSwFiX8w

Unmodified P Rod for reference.

https://youtu.be/MScHMY5K9Wc

Neat DIY carbine stock modification.

https://youtu.be/et1MuHonumU
 
Yes, look into/research the BStaley O-ring buffer mod. You will be able to get 24 shots @ 16FPE, plus be able to quickly tune it down for your garage shooting.

Four -113 O-rings (use square or X-rings), TP drilled out to 0.110" (0.125" if you have mis-matched ports), and slightly heavier hammer spring (0.3" OD X 1.5"L X 0.042" wire)
 
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Thanks so much for the help guys! I misinterpreted where the o rings went, no wonder the gun was shooting weird lol. Bio, I tried the tissue over the breech, no movement. I had a look at that power adjuster link, is there one made for this gun that has a knob with increments instead of use with an allen key? I saw one on a gun surfing this site the other day. Fuzzygrub thank you for the specs on the parts, now I know exactly what to look for. And thank you SqrlHntr for that link, now I'm informed. Very true about fading stress working on the guns. I've got hours and hours of zen grinding ahead to make these blocks of wood into grips. I'll post a how to thread when I'm done. After all I've learned here I'd like to give back to the site somehow.
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