It seems as though I read about flame striping plain maple stocks for some of the old Pennsylvania/Kentucky type rifles. I think they wound something like hemp rope around the stocks and then burned or partially burned the rope.
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Surely this picture is not the refinish. Looking forward to see how this goes.Hey Guys,
Tagging onto an older post about re-finishing a Weihrauch Beech wood stock.
Interesting Project:
I will be looking at re-finishing a Beeman Goudy stock using Ammonia Fuming with a satin, Verathane clear-coat.
I watch a video where a woodworker used store bought, janitor strength and industrial strength ammonia to fum white oak.
After 3 days of fuming, the store bought ammonia almost darkened the wood as much as the industrial strength. The difference was fuming penetration of the wood. The industrial strength ammonia definitely works better, but is extremely TOXIC.
I will try fuming with store bought ammonia for a week to see how dark it gets. I will need to find a suitable small case/bin to enclose the stock. Beech is supposed to contain a lot of tannin - like White Oak - so we'll see how dark it gets.
I will (chemically) strip down the stock to begin with and then sand to perfection before the fuming process begins. The original finish has been compromised and needs to be re-done. It's almost impossible to touch up one of these stocks without completely refinishing ...........
Hoping it turns out like one of my other Beeman Goudy stocks ............
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It’s a similar process to the oxidation method. No two pieces of wood come out the same. I think this was the process used when Beeman imported the Goudy stocks. I have always wanted to try it. Good luck. Please keep us updated with each step.No Bear - I wish! ....... Factory R10 finish from 1988.
Hoping/praying the fuming could look somewhat close ?
I think it’s just the turning/yellowing of the clear coat.Stripping the stock now, it seems Beeman used some kind of light dye/stain to tint the wood orange/amber?
That looks great, I'll have to try the flame marking sometime. A well done job.Beechwood is not my favorite choice for a gun stock. Most springers these days come with one however. Also, most come with colored spray on finish. Not very exciting to say the least. This is a HW30 with the deluxe stock. Plain Beechwood with a spray on finish, checkering and all.
This is the third refinish in the past three weeks. First one, I didn’t like the color. Second one, didn’t like the clear coat. This one I did the slow way. Stripped, sanded, flame striped, stained, stained again and then oiled 4 coats with three more to go. Allowing 24 hours dry time between every coat. This was my first attempt at flame striping to add some character. Might do more next time. Different stock though. This one is done. Third time is a charm. Also added an adjustable butt pad because with a diopter the stock was to straight. First picture is the original stock. Then stripped and oxidized. (wood was to white) Then the completed project.
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Before and After.........
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Yeah, I don't know Bear .... there seems to be some type of stain, but I'm definitely guessing on this one.I think it’s just the turning/yellowing of the clear coat.
FWIW. More wood to sand than it looks like. Leaving the butt pad on, I sand first with an orbital sander 180 grit up about 1/2 from the checkering. Don’t try it if you haven’t used an orbital much. Then sand the stock entirely by hand, with the grain, right up to the checkering. Mostly the stock is bright as new. Except around the checkering which looks nicer when completed anyway.Yeah, I don't know Bear .... there seems to be some type of stain, but I'm definitely guessing on this one.
The finish should be off by tomorrow. The extent of the stain/coloration may change my approach, because there's not much excess wood you can sand.
Plus fuming assumes your dealing with very clean wood - only.