Enhancing a Beechwood / Beech Gun Stock

[Bear-of-Grayling]

It's wrecking the checkering that gives me pause. I've only checkered one stock and it went incredibly well until it didn't. I tried to not let people see that side of the stock. Stripping and sanding are quite an art around the checkering.

It’s fine to strip the checkering. Just use lacquer thinner (to remove the stripper and finish) with a very soft brush to apply it. Then blow out the wet checking with air. Don’t wire brush it or even handle it when it’s wet. To soft. Then when it’s dry use blue painters tape and an exacto knife and cut in the edges. Now sand with the grain by hand up to the tape. Leave the tape on through the entire staining and finishing process. The tape can be removed a couple times to check out everything. To many times and it will loose its adhesive. If that happens re-tape. Remember, hand checkering is done after the stock is completely finished. So, if you want it to look correct, no finish (not even an oil finish) in the checkering. If using a heavy bodied stain, don’t apply it in the checkering either. A very thin stain can be applied in the checkering. Just blow it out with air when wet. Again, do not rub the checkering when it’s wet.

 

[Star7]

Thank you! I will give that a try.

 

[Frank in Fairfield]

My 1984 R1 has a Gowdy Beech stock.
Since Day 1 it has had about 100 coats of finger applied BLO and wipe down with a BLO impregnated silicone cloth after each shooting session.
Looks fine to me.
I know the OP put in a lot of work but his stock does not look good to me.

 

[thumper]

I'm not sure what the BLO is supposed to do when it's applied over a factory varnish.

 

[KWK]

I'm not sure what the BLO is supposed to do when it's applied over a factory varnish.

It can actually work on plain Varnish but I don't know about urethane which the Beeman stock most likely is.
Acetone will make oil finish gum up. Not so much to cured urethanes.
I have improved worn varnished or oiled stocks with Minwax Antique oil after a light scrubbing with fine steel wool. Works real well for me.

 

[KWK]

It’s fine to strip the checkering. Just use lacquer thinner (to remove the stripper and finish) with a very soft brush to apply it. Then blow out the wet checking with air. Don’t wire brush it or even handle it when it’s wet. To soft. Then when it’s dry use blue painters tape and an exacto knife and cut in the edges. Now sand with the grain by hand up to the tape. Leave the tape on through the entire staining and finishing process. The tape can be removed a couple times to check out everything. To many times and it will loose its adhesive. If that happens re-tape. Remember, hand checkering is done after the stock is completely finished. So, if you want it to look correct, no finish (not even an oil finish) in the checkering. If using a heavy bodied stain, don’t apply it in the checkering either. A very thin stain can be applied in the checkering. Just blow it out with air when wet. Again, do not rub the checkering when it’s wet.

I don't worry about checkering at all. If it gets sanded a little no problem because I chase it all out with needle files I heated and curved the tips. Not hard to chase it out. if you remain focused. I slop stain on fast over the whole stock and wipe it down. Sometimes for beech I wipe it on with a rag just the right amount and don't wipe off. Don't sand past 220 if you want beech to take any stain. I don't tape anything. Just don't load up the checks with finish. After checkering a finished stock the checks are not left unfinished. I even use a wire brush on it when I strip. Even the checkers. Oh my!
The Tomahawk is obviously Walnut but see the checkers.