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Effectively using Mil-Dots (or trying to) with different magnifications

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I have about decided that a fine duplex reticle is, for me, the most all around useful and least distracting reticle I can use. Of course, I come to this decision after acquiring a house full of fancy dot and hash mark reticles. The ranges at which I shoot are not that great, and I know the trajectory well, so I can instinctively handle the POA to hit most targets. With dots, most FFP scopes are not very useful at lower power settings, especially in the woods, and a SFP scope leaves you constantly adjusting mental calculations. By the time I deal with either one, I can usually get off a satisfactory squirrel-head shot with a simple cross hair. Just my opinion, and I apologize for being a bit off topic, but this is something to which I have given some thought lately.
 
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FFP vs SFP is an interesting controversy. I can see pros and cons for both so I think it really depends on the application. I run both and I’ve concluded that if one likes to dial SFP works great but if one likes to use holdovers than FFP is usually the way to go. JMO
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For SFP, you would have to know what the manufacturer's specified magnification setting for the reticle subtensions to be "true" whether they are in MOA or MIL. Normally, they are "true" at 10 power or at the higher end of the magnification in a variable scope. As long as you have it set at that magnification, you can dial or holdover. One thing to take into consideration is to make sure that both the turret's click values are the same as the reticle.

I would rather use holdover for SFP at the "true" magnification setting because the reticle in a SFP scope is usually larger. For FFP, I would rather dial and hold center because it doesn't matter what magnification the scope is set at especially when set at the lower end of the scope's magnification. All this doesn't matter if your scope's turrets don't track true.
 
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Thanks for your input. 

I've since acquired two FFP scopes and have put close to 2,000 shots through both rifles trying to determine what's best for my particular situation. 

Again, everyone likes things a little differently, and if I were only punching paper, I have to agree with some of the previous comments and would probably rely more on the software and set focus approach. 

I have found however that for shooting in the field, I like magnification to be between 6X and about 20X. But I typically only have one shot to get it right and often time is a critical issue as my targets don't sit still for long. 

I don't know that I really like the FFP scopes as the reticle, as has been mentioned, get too big with higher magnifications. 

I may have to resort to a higher end clicker scope (SFP) when hunting or continue to try to master the guesstimate hold over. 

The joy of perpetual learning I guess!!


 
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Thanks for your input. 

I've since acquired two FFP scopes and have put close to 2,000 shots through both rifles trying to determine what's best for my particular situation. 

Again, everyone likes things a little differently, and if I were only punching paper, I have to agree with some of the previous comments and would probably rely more on the software and set focus approach. 

I have found however that for shooting in the field, I like magnification to be between 6X and about 20X. But I typically only have one shot to get it right and often time is a critical issue as my targets don't sit still for long. 

I don't know that I really like the FFP scopes as the reticle, as has been mentioned, get too big with higher magnifications. 

I may have to resort to a higher end clicker scope (SFP) when hunting or continue to try to master the guesstimate hold over. 

The joy of perpetual learning I guess!!

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Although I have both FFP and SFP scopes, I don't click for range. I like having some sort of markings other than simple duplex/fine duplex, but that is only for referencing the target. To be clear, I use holdover with BOTH types of scopes for my pesting from about 13 to ~45 yards. I know my holdovers for the shots outside of my PBR and also know what a quarter of an inch is in relation to my target. However, I LIKE having something more than a simple duplex offers. The hash marks, once I am familiar with a particular scope, give me a better reference for accuracy, where the simple duplex reticle offers nothing for reference except the center crosshair.

Of course, to each their own, but over time I have found that at least SOME sort of reference hash marks are very useful even if only for reference when taking the shot... like having a crosshair to center with. I hope that made sense... (sheepish grin)

YMMV
 
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For sure, and I agree. I don't like simple reticle unless I'm shooting with one of my little PCPs at 35 yards or less. 

All of the bigger boys carry mildot recycles to help with distances and holdover. It's apparently just something I'm going to have to rely on a clicker scope in SFP to provide adjustments and hope the range finder can get me within +/- 10 meters quickly. 

Trouble is, from what I'm seeing, almost all the better clicker scopes weigh 2-3 pounds!! So much for easy to take in the field, but maybe that's the only trade off available 🤔 
 
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For sure, and I agree. I don't like simple reticle unless I'm shooting with one of my little PCPs at 35 yards or less. 

All of the bigger boys carry mildot recycles to help with distances and holdover. It's apparently just something I'm going to have to rely on a clicker scope in SFP to provide adjustments and hope the range finder can get me within +/- 10 meters quickly. 

Trouble is, from what I'm seeing, almost all the better clicker scopes weigh 2-3 pounds!! So much for easy to take in the field, but maybe that's the only trade off available
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I guess it really depends on how much magnification you need/want/require. I like higher magnification, even for my relatively short distances. But I also only shoot in my backyard where I don't have to move a lot and always (well, almost always) have a rest of some sort. (grin)

p.s.

Generally speaking, the higher the magnification of the scope, the higher the weight. So, either get used to lower magnification or get used to the higher weight.
 
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Do you guys use dots or hash marks for ranging? I use sfp scopes and hold what ever Strelok says for range. I have a 5.5-15 Hawke and sometimes dial. It really doesn't matter. I have a mil reticle but moa knobs. It doesn't matter. I shoot on 15X and never change power. The scope focuses to 10 yards. If I did dial down to a lower power for a close shot I put the crosshairs on what I am shooting. I range with a laser rangefinder. I have my elevation knob marked for range and dial or I use a chart printed off Strelok for hold over. I guess what I'm saying is it doesn't matter to me what dots or marks I have in my scope I use what Strelok says for hold over and use the crosshairs for dialing. The only thing I need is a zero stop for dialing. Thanks for listening, Scott
 
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Do you guys use dots or hash marks for ranging? I use sfp scopes and hold what ever Strelok says for range. I have a 5.5-15 Hawke and sometimes dial. It really doesn't matter. I have a mil reticle but moa knobs. It doesn't matter. I shoot on 15X and never change power. The scope focuses to 10 yards. If I did dial down to a lower power for a close shot I put the crosshairs on what I am shooting. I range with a laser rangefinder. I have my elevation knob marked for range and dial or I use a chart printed off Strelok for hold over. I guess what I'm saying is it doesn't matter to me what dots or marks I have in my scope I use what Strelok says for hold over and use the crosshairs for dialing. The only thing I need is a zero stop for dialing. Thanks for listening, Scott
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I'm not really sure what you are asking and not really sure what you are saying.

You say you need a zero stop, so I assume you are dialing for range. I would dial for range if I trusted any of my scopes to repeat accurately. Also, because I only pest in my backyard and (now) the extreme range is usually only 45 yards, I simply use holdover/under for anything outside of my PBR. I don't have Strelok, but use ChairGun Pro for general holdover, but have found that actually shooting test shots at a given range is the best way to determine holdovers, although CGP is pretty close most of the time and good enough if I haven't taken a test shot at a given range.

So, I guess I am confused because you say you need a zero stop, but that would really only be needed if you were dialing for range. Right?
 
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FFP vs SFP is an interesting controversy. I can see pros and cons for both so I think it really depends on the application. I run both and I’ve concluded that if one likes to dial SFP works great but if one likes to use holdovers than FFP is usually the way to go. JMO
Click to expand...

For SFP, you would have to know what the manufacturer's specified magnification setting for the reticle subtensions to be "true" whether they are in MOA or MIL. Normally, they are "true" at 10 power or at the higher end of the magnification in a variable scope. As long as you have it set at that magnification, you can dial or holdover. One thing to take into consideration is to make sure that both the turret's click values are the same as the reticle.

I would rather use holdover for SFP at the "true" magnification setting because the reticle in a SFP scope is usually larger. For FFP, I would rather dial and hold center because it doesn't matter what magnification the scope is set at especially when set at the lower end of the scope's magnification. All this doesn't matter if your scope's turrets don't track true.
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What’s the point of a FFP scope if you are going to dial anyway? The subtensions being accurate at every magnification is the primary purpose and advantage of FFP vs SFP…that’s why I said earlier that if you tend to dial just use a SFP…it’s reticle is easily visible at all magnifications and it’s less expensive.
 
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