Effectively using Mil-Dots (or trying to) with different magnifications

[ShootingNewB]

So I have a higher end rifle that I had dialed in to 75 yards. Everything works great as long as my target is +/- 10 yards on either side of 75.

However, when trying to shoot game/targets closer, I prefer to us the mildots on the scope rather than the clicking method (even though the scope is a 'clicker-scope')

My question is; how do you know which magnification requires which number of mildot settings (up or down) given your current magnification?

I often hunt at 6-10 X; however there are times when I can crank up to 24 if the situation presents itself. Obviously the more you zoom in, the bigger the difference becomes between mil-dot settings. So can someone please explain to me how to keep both the magnification and mil-dot settings straight for 40 yard shots, 65 and 90 yards in the same outing? Do you just never change your zoom magnification?

 

[JimInSoCal]

buy a scope with a first focal plane reticle. your holdover, hold under remains the same regardless of mag.

 

[L.Leon]

I like to shoot pest throughout the magnification range of my scope. Sounds like you're describing something similar. In a FFP scope the relationship between the mil dots is the same at all magnifications. So research FFP scopes to see if they suit you, which by what you posted they should.

 

[shambozzie]

So I have a higher end rifle that I had dialed in to 75 yards. Everything works great as long as my target is +/- 10 yards on either side of 75.

However, when trying to shoot game/targets closer, I prefer to us the mildots on the scope rather than the clicking method (even though the scope is a 'clicker-scope')

My question is; how do you know which magnification requires which number of mildot settings (up or down) given your current magnification?

I often hunt at 6-10 X; however there are times when I can crank up to 24 if the situation presents itself. Obviously the more you zoom in, the bigger the difference becomes between mil-dot settings. So can someone please explain to me how to keep both the magnification and mil-dot settings straight for 40 yard shots, 65 and 90 yards in the same outing? Do you just never change your zoom magnification?

Buy Strelok pro for about $12 bucks. Once programmed correctly it will answer all your questions no matter if your scope is ffp or sfp. The reticle will be marked with holdover points from your input info and power setting of scope. 

 

[Bander124]

So I have a higher end rifle that I had dialed in to 75 yards. Everything works great as long as my target is +/- 10 yards on either side of 75.

However, when trying to shoot game/targets closer, I prefer to us the mildots on the scope rather than the clicking method (even though the scope is a 'clicker-scope')

My question is; how do you know which magnification requires which number of mildot settings (up or down) given your current magnification?

I often hunt at 6-10 X; however there are times when I can crank up to 24 if the situation presents itself. Obviously the more you zoom in, the bigger the difference becomes between mil-dot settings. So can someone please explain to me how to keep both the magnification and mil-dot settings straight for 40 yard shots, 65 and 90 yards in the same outing? Do you just never change your zoom magnification?

Buy Strelok pro for about $12 bucks. Once programmed correctly it will answer all your questions no matter if your scope is ffp or sfp. The reticle will be marked with holdover points from your input info and power setting of scope.

+1 StrelokPro 

 

[DMR_214]

Hey shambozie, so I wanna start by saying you are correct in never changing zoom part.

2nd, to answer your question, you would have to go out and shoot the distance at the different power levels, Write poi down, move target to next distance, repeat the steps.

The way I did it when using the airmax sfp scope was , to zero it at 10x @ 30 yards. (My scope wasn't 20x) but at 20x it's just double the mills , I'd avoid 24x to keep it simple.

For example 1mill at 50 yards is 1.8" and 3.6" at 100yards using 10x.

So using 20x the same 1.8" at 50 yards would be 2 mill. 

Some scopes have different power levels where milldots are true, manufacturers specs should give this info. (Mine was 10x)

I'm assuming you have to hold under at closer ranges. If you have a shot at 30 yards I'd use 10x, if it's 75 yards 20x. Or you could get the ffp scopes as suggested, I did and I don't even touch the other one anymore.

 

[ShootingNewB]

@Shambozzie: oh, haven't heard of those but will certainly check them out. Thank you kindly for the suggestion!!

 

[shoot44]

"Obviously the more you zoom in, the bigger the difference becomes between mil-dot settings." - There is your problem.

 

[PumaCarl]

+2 Definitely use Strelok Pro! Go to YouTube and watch 68 Whiskey's instructional videos on how to get the most out of it, easily.

 

[ShootingNewB]

@L.Leon: that makes sense. Thank you. All my glass is SFP currently so I'll look into getting an FFP. Appreciate it. 

 

[Gerry52]

Strelok is a great app for that, as others said, but you'll need to know speed you're gun is shooting at, among other factors so hope you have a chrony.

 

[ShootingNewB]

@Gerry52 I use an FX Chrono so that won't be a problem, thanks!

 

[Guest]

I shoot and dial the zoom to find the corresponding hold. There are too many variables from one rifle setup to the next for a mathematical formula.

 

[c_m_shooter]

10x should be mils and 20 will be half mils.

 

[ShootingNewB]

Thanks much.... I guess don't change the magnification and record the mildots is probably the fastest without plotting a solution.

For punching paper, probably no big deal; for hunting, may have to go the FFP route... Always learning something new!

 

[ctshooter]

Well you've never told us what scope you are using other than SFP. Every scope will have a certain magnification where the dots are accurate. I find it entirely too frustrating and prefer FFP scope.

 

[ShootingNewB]

Ah,ok, I have the following (SFP) scopes with mildots:

Athlon BTR 6-24x50

Aztec Emerald 5.5-25x50

Element Helix 6-24x50

Vortex Viper 6-24x50

Leupold VX3 4.5x14x40

Bushnell Tac Elite 5-15x40



But I have not tried or owned an FFP scope yet

 

[ctshooter]

Have you read the spec to find out where the Mil-Dots are actually to spec on each of the scopes. I would research that as 1) replacing with FFP is some cash and 2) you actually may prefer SFP over FFP - some do - as the reticle is always the same in SFP but zooms in and out with FFP - some find the zoomed out reticle to thin to use at low magnification and some find the reticle too thick when you go to max magnification. 

Regardless the recommendation for Strelok Pro is probably the best one on here. This will show you the compensation at any distance with any wind speed and direction once you put in all the parameters. Regardless of SFP or FFP - at the end of the day Mil is Mil and an app will show you your holdovers pretty accurately. The better the data input the better the output.

 

[ShootingNewB]

@ctshooter: great point and suggestion. 

I will probably look to secure an FFP to do some comparisons but agree with the consensus is that Strelok Pro is the best overall solution

Thanks for your input one and all.

In closing, any recommendations on a sub $1K FFP scope/ model?

 

[Scouty]

@ctshooter: great point and suggestion. 

I will probably look to secure an FFP to do some comparisons but agree with the consensus is that Strelok Pro is the best overall solution

Thanks for your input one and all.

In closing, any recommendations on a sub $1K FFP scope/ model?

I try to look through as many FFP scopes as I can. Not nearly the number of most around here but I'll mention it anyways. To my eye so many of them really don't have visible holdover dots/dashes until well into their magnification range.

Which brings up a good point. Do you use holdover with your current scopes at minimum or low magnification?

That's why I haven't used any of my FFP scopes on hunting rifles. Too many shots closer than the PBR of the setup in use for me to use FFP. With a FFP scope I'd either have to pass up on those shots, dial or attempt a close shot with more magnification than is ideal. When you have a red squirrel chirping at your at close range options 2 & 3 are often not ideal.

A friend of mine has an Athlon Ares ETR 4.5-30x56 To date that is the most useful FFP reticle I've seen. I can actually see it at 4.5x for dead hold shots and the holdover points become visible at 6x or 7x. Reticle is a definitely thick at 30x. If punching paper for accuracy I'd likely dial it down a bit to thin the reticle out some. 

Dairyboy has posted pictures of the reticle of his Athlon 2-12x42. Again, totally visible at 2x and holdover points seem useful at 4x or 5x. I'd have to look through one to be sure but if I decided I absolutely needed an FFP scope that's the one I'd start with. Well, or the March 1-10x24 shorty with both SFP and FFP reticles, but I digress.

At any rate, the Ares ETR is over a grand and a heavy scope but if I were in your shoes I'd start my search with one of their 4.5-27x50 scopes. I don't know the model names off hand.