EDgun Edgun Leshiy 2

20240117_154547.jpg


A lill diy project
 
  • Wow
Reactions: SHOMER
That's been part of what I've done since first trying, as twisting counter-clockwise would jam the roller/arm with even a small push.

I'm trying the previous instructions, finding it awkward, as the tolerance on the shaft doesn't really allow for any play on an angle... but I'll persist and find a smooth way to do it. It's the sharp edges on the front edges of each magazine detent, interacting negatively with the plastic roller, which bother me. And of course if I swap to the little steel cartridge bearing, there's a concern about that eating into the finish on the magazine. So technique does seem important either way.

You'll get the hang of it eventually. There's very little tolerance in there, but if you're gentle you'll find it without causing any harm to the gun.

Some of the newer magazines have a little rounding on the magazine post, which makes it a bit easier.
 
So you made the wheel with lever? Looks like a very finished product.

My Immersive 10x40 (branded Element Immersive) arrived today. Had to knock out the two bolts on the smallest mount and tap them into the other side to get the knobs out of the way of folding the stock, while putting the scope mount as close as possible to the magazine. Neither of the longer supplied variable-MOA mounts would work, owing to the magazine plate and magazine. I could order a riser extended mount, but like the scope right there. Gets my eye right in the sweet spot without having to crane my neck unnaturally forward, thanks to the Leshiy's rather short length of pull. Folded, it adds a bit to the length, but it's still only 16" without that ugly brake mounted, 16.7" with it. Got to get a M14x1.5 thread protector to replace that useless thing...

The scope's side focus knob has white lines, and a 6 at the bottom, infinity symbol at the top. I suppose with everyone adjusting focus on the ocular lens to suit their particular vision correction needs, numbering the knob wouldn't make much sense. So is your big wheel numbered for your setup? Seems like something I'd like to get marked accurately at some point to enable use of the focus as a rough rangefinder. Making or buying a wheel with room for numbers on it would be a nice trick.

Leshiy_open.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: SHOMER
I wish the Elements base was a QD. Love my Burris one-piece QD bases for my TNW ASR and my Sig Cross. Makes it so easy to arrange bits in a backpack while hiking, and they return to zero very consistently on both rifles. Oh well, like I said the overhang isn't much, with the Leshiy now just 16" OAL folded with the scope. Easily fits in any pack I use - the TNW is 19", so the Leshiy is easy by comparison. And I LOVE the view through the 10x40! Fantastic scope.

----------------

Got out the boresight green laser kit yesterday and checked the Elements scope at 8 yards, getting it close, then at 65 yards against a neighbour's fence and dialed it in a bit closer. Then a shot on paper inside at 8 yards. Needed 2 clicks Left, 16 clicks Up. Second shot, still needed a minor adjustment. Did that, and third shot (with 1.2" holdover marked on the paper for this range, according to Chairgun's calculation) was dead on the bull, 1/4 of the hole in each quadrant around the crosshair I'd drawn for a target. So at least I should be on paper at 50 yards, whenever I get an opportunity to go out and properly shoot this thing.

And once that's done and I've shot for holdovers to confirm various ranges, I can set about marking the focus wheel somehow. Maybe just a plastic wheel bonded to it with some Sugru silicone putty, with marked distances on the side for crude rangefinding.
 
Last edited:
From what I've seen mentioned in this thread and in a couple of Youtube videos, the 'collar and bone' parts have been added to low-power imports in the UK, and perhaps elsewhere. Typically these lower power Leshiy 2 examples are in .177" or .22", but it could be there are other calibres where they are also used - as shown in the above post regarding a .25" example.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Guill
Its pretty easy, be aware of the little ceramic bal, its not very clear on this video. Its in the white cone where the bone is placed.
This is exactly the type of thing I was looking for, warning about tiny pieces that can get missed. Appreciate the heads up. And yes @tnbndr you’re 100% on point that there’s the excellent exploded views on the Edgun.shop website.
 
I've never used picatinny mounted open sites but can they be shimmed?

Sounds odd since the L2 rail has 30 MOA built in. If anything you should be having the opposite problem.

I hope you post back with how the magnifier works for you. I thought about trying either the Bushnell or the Riton behind my PA 1x prism but sounded like it was going to be tough to get them to work together.

The PA magnifier either had to little eye relief or was too short to work on the L2. Or maybe both.
Well I have mounted the Bushnell magnifier behind the holosun - they work just about but for some reason I can't seem to change or adjust, the Bushnell seems to sit slightly slanted so that I can't centre the dot, it sits low down in the field of view, but it works

2024-01-22-14-33-21-354.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Scouty
I had a situation couple years ago. A same Brand - SigSauer - the red dot and the magnifier were not in same centerline.
Romeo7 + Juliete6 I am talking about. Several months of chasing the Dealer and Sig, finally I sent in for Service, no luck. I made them pay it out. That was back in 2021.

Maybe you can fix it with shim plates. You would need to measure both centerlines individually.
 
I copied your picture, levelled it, and drew a line parallel to the optic rail and then through the optical centres. The dot sight looks fairly close to being parallel to the rail. The magnifier isn't anywhere near parallel, pointing upwards about 1.8 degrees according to my screen protractor. That's rather amazing. I've never seen such a crooked mount.
crooked_magnifier.jpg
 
Really appreciate the responses and suggestions guys, Its definitely a really crooked mount, I'm think maybe order a new mount, possibly a holosun mount which I dare say will put the Bushnell magnifier in exactly the correct position..... I can't see why there would be any incompatibility? Either way I'm not particularly impressed with the mount supplied by Bushnell even if it was not crooked its still not great....

Aside from that, I really like the HS515GM GR
it is deffo a quality bit of kit and easy to use - I'm thinking of getting a small and compact NV scope too, most of my pest control will be at night, want something really compact though, thinking the sightmark wraith mini - anyone tried one of these on a leshiy2?
 
From what I've seen mentioned in this thread and in a couple of Youtube videos, the 'collar and bone' parts have been added to low-power imports in the UK, and perhaps elsewhere. Typically these lower power Leshiy 2 examples are in .177" or .22", but it could be there are other calibres where they are also used - as shown in the above post regarding a .25" example.

They're standard in .17 and .22 everywhere. They were missing in the original L2s and were introduced when the REPR came out, as a part of the revised front plug. Apparently they're there to improve the efficiency in lower powered guns by reducing the volume behind the valve. If you're aiming for max power with the .22, it's best to remove them. If you like to conserve air with a sub-30fpe .22/350, you want to keep them. No need for them in .25 and above. Note: simply removing them changes the valve timing and you'd need bigger jets to stay at the same fps. But if you're removing them you want more fps, so you don't care.