• The AGN App is ready! Search "Airgun Nation" in your App store. To compliment this new tech we've assigned the "Threads" Feed & "Dark" Mode. To revert back click HERE.

EDgun Edgun Leshiy 2

i dont own one of these and been researching them. let me ask a ignorant question.
why not offer a means by wich these can be bled? understanding maybe it was never even thought of has a issue but if it has happened one, twice, three times, more? i would think a blead would not be much to add?
thanks pan

I think the design philosophy is to keep it as simple as possible, so you have less o-rings and exotic sources of leaks to worry about.
 
I think the design philosophy is to keep it as simple as possible, so you have less o-rings and exotic sources of leaks to worry about.
seems like enough of a safty issue it would warent adding?
so what cause the issue? why couldnt you just turn the regulator back up?
like i say just investigating this gun.
thanks pan
 
seems like enough of a safty issue it would warent adding?
so what cause the issue? why couldnt you just turn the regulator back up?
like i say just investigating this gun.
thanks pan
It's probably not a very common failure with these. I searched the forum and did not see this reported. Nice to be the first at something, lol.
Anyway pushing out the gauge worked, the o-rings got destroyed in the process, but the gauge is still in one piece.
Next I'll pull out the reg and see what happened. It's probably a good opportunity to upgrade to Huma anyway.

Update: the piston o-ring fell apart, and the debris blocked the piston. Cleaned everything, replaced the o-ring, the gun is back in business. The gauge did get messed up from the impact during extraction: it works, but now it reads ~30bar higher.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: pan60
Could use some input. I just got the Behemoth moderator and it came with a longer pin that locks the folding stock open. It looks like perhaps there is a small pin that retains the locking pin. Is that correct and do I just punch that small pin out to remove and then replace the locking pin? If so what direction do punch the little pin out?
 
Could use some input. I just got the Behemoth moderator and it came with a longer pin that locks the folding stock open. It looks like perhaps there is a small pin that retains the locking pin. Is that correct and do I just punch that small pin out to remove and then replace the locking pin? If so what direction do punch the little pin out?
Yes
 
Could use some input. I just got the Behemoth moderator and it came with a longer pin that locks the folding stock open. It looks like perhaps there is a small pin that retains the locking pin. Is that correct and do I just punch that small pin out to remove and then replace the locking pin? If so what direction do punch the little pin out?
Here is a video on how to replace the pin.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RAMJET66
IMO, the Sekhmet or Edgun EDMU is a better option because some the digital gauge have the battery installed from the side of the gauge body. I have both on my L2. The Sekhmet as the main and EDMU for the regulator. When considering a digital gauge for the L2, do you want to have to take the gauge out of the L2 each time you are replacing the battery? Remember the L2 has the main gauge installed inside the back stock, can’t get to the side of the gauge without removing the gauge out completely. The Sekhmet can be recharged on the face of the gauge. The Edgun EDMU (Gen 2) can have the gauge cover removed to replace the battery without removing the gauge out of the L2. I’m a big fan of digital gauges and I have many of them. Lol. I have them on just about every PCP I own. The Sekhmet does not that far out of the L2. See attached photo.
372F265B-4393-431E-A888-4D257BFFA06E.jpeg
3B848A09-39F5-406E-B8E6-3B1E9A0383A8.jpeg
 
Is this screw a "check valve" for the bottle fill port?

20221216_210733.jpg


With a cold weather I received also some issues=leaks when topping up the bottle with an EazyFill - outside in the field.
Today I had some time to tinker and removed all the orings in the power side, washed the parts with IPA and put back new and lubed orings. I was looking into that screw could not figure the funktion for it so I didn't put it back. Bad decision, I could not remove the presurized fill probe, so again take it down and put back that screw = and now I know. But when I am looking now into that picture, that screw - works but looks so .... weak point?
 
Is this screw a "check valve" for the bottle fill port?

View attachment 314331

With a cold weather I received also some issues=leaks when topping up the bottle with an EazyFill - outside in the field.
Today I had some time to tinker and removed all the orings in the power side, washed the parts with IPA and put back new and lubed orings. I was looking into that screw could not figure the funktion for it so I didn't put it back. Bad decision, I could not remove the presurized fill probe, so again take it down and put back that screw = and now I know. But when I am looking now into that picture, that screw - works but looks so .... weak point?
I think it's made to slow the flow when filling the tank. But may also be a check valve.
 
Is this screw a "check valve" for the bottle fill port?

View attachment 314331

With a cold weather I received also some issues=leaks when topping up the bottle with an EazyFill - outside in the field.
Today I had some time to tinker and removed all the orings in the power side, washed the parts with IPA and put back new and lubed orings. I was looking into that screw could not figure the funktion for it so I didn't put it back. Bad decision, I could not remove the presurized fill probe, so again take it down and put back that screw = and now I know. But when I am looking now into that picture, that screw - works but looks so .... weak point?
it’s both a check valve and fill speed valve.

 
  • Like
Reactions: Glem.Chally
Somewhere about couple pages back there was ones one post saying about a leak when refilling from empty or topping up the tank... perhaps from the forward plug area.
That happened to me as well just recently started with a colder weather.
And my suspect is?
20221028_224046.jpg


That little ball on left side.
I received mine in a kit (refurbishing indexing mechanisam kit). The pocket (counterbore for spring seat) in a plastic ball is 1mm and that makes the spring 1mm longer with a metal perl, and keeps the Valve open all the way the pressure in the plenum overrides that spring tension. So I believe even the lube thickness on the white Valve body/oring plays a rule in cold.
 
So here is a story from a masochist mechanic :)
Lets start with a joke I will try to translate from an another language, I will try to make a point. "Who doesn't have it in he's head must have it in he's legs"
My workbench is in man's cave down in a basement.
If I ran into something new and unknown, I leave all parts on the table, 40 stairs up to my second floor PC room with total of 65 steps.
Between point A to point B and back to A, many ways to derail the attention, the cats, the wife, and the questions "why dishes in a sink, who is going to plow the snow, did you feed the cats and honey please park my car in the garage, and so on many others you may already figure out". BTW, better me to park that SUV in the garage otherwise the second car won't fit ;)
Finally I got to my PC, login to AGN or search the airgun videos on Utube, post a question, and back down to mans cave same route with many moments along the way.
Then again back again up stairs to see if anybody posted help to my question. And back downstairs....
Yes, semi retired, lot of time on my plate, and I don't feel sorry to count my stairs and steps.
But oh man, so dangerous.
Sometimes just pays figuring out myself sitting at my workbench.
 
Last edited:
it’s both a check valve and fill speed valve.

Yes, and nobody explains it better than ED, here's some screenshots

L2 - filling valve 0.JPG
L2 - filling valve 1.JPG
L2 - filling valve 2.JPG
L2 - filling unit 0.JPG
L2 - filling unit 1.JPG
L2 - filling unit 2.JPG
L2 - filling unit 3.JPG


Simple and brilliant way to make a check valve IMHO, compare with FX's over engineered version (as in my cyclone, cutlas, monsoon, revolution) - all leaking because the o-ring goes flat over time - while filling the Fx's I can hear a buss from the o-ring vibrating, this will produce a lot of heat that will degrade the o-ring over time

fx fill port valve.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hoffman9517