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Easy Method/Technique For Scope Magnification Ring Markings? (HELP Required)

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Are you asking so you can use your scope for range estimation and elevation holds? If so, SFP or second focal plane scopes have one magnification setting that is used for this purpose. Sometimes at the maximum magnification, sometimes at 20x, it all depends on which scope you own. If used at a different magnification, it will alter the measurements for ranging. A FFP or first focal plane scope has a reticle that changes size in relation to magnification so that the measurements stay the same at all magnifications. For ranging, and dialing elevation, I think FFP is easier and what I prefer, although many use or prefer SFP scopes.

The easiest way to mark your turret is to validate the amount of clicks you need at each distance. This means actually shooting at each distance, you’ll hit lower and lower the farther you shoot, so you’ll need to dial your scope to compensate for the drop and count the amount of clicks on your turret it takes to make the crosshairs on your scope move to hit the bullseye. Mark it down in your notes and move on to the next distance. After you’ve validated all of your distances, say from 40yds to 150yds. you either need to make a scope tape or small markers that match the amount of clicks at each distance and glue them to the appropriate spot on your scope to dial and get a hit at that yardage. It takes time, but done correctly can make range estimation, dialing and shooting at distance fun and a little easier than relying on hold overs. If you are not using the scope for range estimation, just dialing your elevation, SFP scopes do just fine! 

I hope this helps and you at least get some of what I’m trying to explain. I’m on my lunch and didn’t have much time to put it down for you. Hope it helps. The picture I posted is an aftermarket turret that I like to use to help my scopes turrets from getting too cluttered with yardage markers. I make a tape and tape it to my aftermarket turret. Stoti
 
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I have couple of interrelated questions regarding this topic. 

  1. How to check scope magnification numbers are correct related to all appearant X-Power markings?
  2.  Is there any easy way to custom markings these magnification numbers?
    [/LIST=1]
Click to expand...


  1. If you have an standard SFP mil-dot scope, the angular dot spacing will be 1 milliradian at 10x.

    Set a yard stick out at 100 feet from the scope (measured from yardstick to the magnification ring).

    Turn the magnification ring to change the number of inches that the reticle spans.

    when each dot spans 2", you are at 6x
    when each dot spans 1.33", you are at 9x
    when each dot spans 1.2", you are at 10x
    when each dot spans 1", you are at 12x
    when each dot spans 3/4", you are at 16x
    when each dot spans 1/2", you are at 24x

    For a more accurate read, better to use 10 dot spaces so they span:

    20.0" at 6x
    13.33" at 9x
    12.0" at 10x
    10.0" at 12x
    7.5" at 16x
    5.0" at 24x


    Rather than custom mark the ring, just note the spacing at each of the factory magnification marks. For instance, if the 16x mark actually yields 7.0" instead of 7.5", then the actual magnification is (7.5/7.0)x16=17.14x. Use that 17.14x in your calculations or in the Chairgun magnification setting.

    All of the above assumes that you have a standard mil-dot@10x style reticle. The process is similar for other reticles but the spacing might be different.
 
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Dear Stoti:

Thanks a lot for providing me such a useful details. Yes you are very right about FFP scopes are having edge over SFP. I am very much aware of their differences, use, pros and cons. I personally prefer having SFP over FFP because when I zoom out SFP scope's magnification i got more holdover references for longer ranges in between mildot.

I m also using turret dial-in on my 4-16x44 ½ Mildot Hawke which is spot-on upto 120yd. But recently i have bought Discovery HD 5-25X50 SFIR DLTW SFP IR-MIL which has many reference points for holdover but somehow my Strelok Pro holdover reading is not matching with actual POI getting on this Discovery scope around 1.5 to 2 mildot higher at longer ranges behond 80yd or so. Therefore, i want to validate its magnification ring markings with X-power numbers.
 
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I have couple of interrelated questions regarding this topic. 

  1. How to check scope magnification numbers are correct related to all appearant X-Power markings?
  2.  Is there any easy way to custom markings these magnification numbers?
    [/LIST=1]
Click to expand...


  1. If you have an standard SFP mil-dot scope, the angular dot spacing will be 1 milliradian at 10x.

    Set a yard stick out at 100 feet from the scope (measured from yardstick to the magnification ring).

    Turn the magnification ring to change the number of inches that the reticle spans.

    when each dot spans 2", you are at 6x
    when each dot spans 1.33", you are at 9x
    when each dot spans 1.2", you are at 10x
    when each dot spans 1", you are at 12x
    when each dot spans 3/4", you are at 16x
    when each dot spans 1/2", you are at 24x

    For a more accurate read, better to use 10 dot spaces so they span:

    20.0" at 6x
    13.33" at 9x
    12.0" at 10x
    10.0" at 12x
    7.5" at 16x
    5.0" at 24x


    Rather than custom mark the ring, just note the spacing at each of the factory magnification marks. For instance, if the 16x mark actually yields 7.0" instead of 7.5", then the actual magnification is (7.5/7.0)x16=17.14x. Use that 17.14x in your calculations or in the Chairgun magnification setting.

    All of the above assumes that you have a standard mil-dot@10x style reticle. The process is similar for other reticles but the spacing might be different.
Click to expand...


  1. Thanks brother, much appreciated. I m exactly looking for the similar type/kind of method/technique. I have Discovery HD 5-25X50 SFIR DLTW SFP Scope which has different type of mils than standard mildots so do you think this method will also work with my Discovery Scope?
 
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Thanks brother, much appreciated. I m exactly looking for the similar type/kind of method/technique. I have Discovery HD 5-25X50 SFIR DLTW SFP Scope which has different type of mils than standard mildots so do you think this method will also work with my Discovery Scope?
Click to expand...

Yes. The HD 5-25X50 SFIR DLTW SFP scope has 10x mil-hash rather than 10x mil-dots. But since both show milliradians at 10x, the numbers I gave you are valid for either.




 
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Thanks brother, much appreciated. I m exactly looking for the similar type/kind of method/technique. I have Discovery HD 5-25X50 SFIR DLTW SFP Scope which has different type of mils than standard mildots so do you think this method will also work with my Discovery Scope?
Click to expand...

Yes. The HD 5-25X50 SFIR DLTW SFP scope has 10x mil-hash rather than 10x mil-dots. But since both show milliradians at 10x, the numbers I gave you are valid for either.



Click to expand...

That's great news for me, I will definitely try and test this method to validate my markings or X-numbers.

Couple of more questions related to ur first reply. Does ballistic software accept Magnification input in point decimal numbers like the example (17.14x) you gave before to put in chairgun or even in Strelok Pro? 

Secondly what if 100 feet space is not available so can it be done in 50 feet and rest of the references also cut in half? (Is it possible in some way) 
 
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Couple of more questions related to ur first reply. Does ballistic software accept Magnification input in point decimal numbers like the example (17.14x) you gave before to put in chairgun or even in Strelok Pro? 

Secondly what if 100 feet space is not available so can it be done in 50 feet and rest of the references also cut in half? (Is it possible in some way)
Click to expand...

My computer and iphone versions of Chairgun both accept magnification entries to the first decimal, so if your calculations gave you 17.14x, You would enter 17.1x.



If you only have 50ft, instead of 100ft? When you cut the distance in half, you would cut the dot span in half:

10 dot spaces so they span:

10.0" at 6x
6.67" at 9x
6.0" at 10x
5.0" at 12x
3.75" at 16x
2.5" at 24x
 
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Couple of more questions related to ur first reply. Does ballistic software accept Magnification input in point decimal numbers like the example (17.14x) you gave before to put in chairgun or even in Strelok Pro? 

Secondly what if 100 feet space is not available so can it be done in 50 feet and rest of the references also cut in half? (Is it possible in some way)
Click to expand...

My computer and iphone versions of Chairgun both accept magnification entries to the first decimal, so if your calculations gave you 17.14x, You would enter 17.1x.



If you only have 50ft, instead of 100ft? When you cut the distance in half, you would cut the dot span in half:

10 dot spaces so they span:

10.0" at 6x
6.67" at 9x
6.0" at 10x
5.0" at 12x
3.75" at 16x
2.5" at 24x
Click to expand...

I m really grateful to you for your prompt response and valuable feedback. You have made it much easier for me to test this method which is a great addition to my knowledge. Can you share the calculations or formula for these lengths at their respective X-power numbers? I also want to mark 20x on my magnification ring! 
 
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You can also use a target designed for MIL/MOA, check the videos from Joe Cyclops, he is using that to show the scope reticles aligments
Click to expand...

Yes you are right, I have seen Joe's videos and i think he uses 100yd range to show those reticles alignment whereas I have only 20yd max at home. Moreover now at this stage I want to learn about the calculations/formula behind these inches measurements with their respective X-power numbers which "Scotchmo" shared above in his posts. 
 
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Instead of using a ruler and using Scotchmo’s numbers (great explanation BTW!) there is a site on which you can dównload and then print a reference mildot cross for all the ranges you desire. They’re made up in .pdf, so if printed at 100% they should be true irrespective of paper size used.

https://www.anstonftc.co.uk/targets/

A very easy and clever solution, and when heatwrapped in plastic they go a long way.
 
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