Does it necessary to use a scope bubble level for a pcp airgun ?

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I bought a level for my gun and it was an eye opener to see how off I was without the level. I now have a levels on all my guns, powder burners and air rifles. I think a level makes a difference at any range. I do have the one you are looking at but I don't use it because it gets in the way of my camera set up and my nite site setup. I went with the level that mounts on the weaver rail. When you are mounting the level, you don't have to worry about making sure the gun is leveled first. Very easy
 
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"wyshadow"I bought a level for my gun and it was an eye opener to see how off I was without the level. I now have a levels on all my guns, powder burners and air rifles. I think a level makes a difference at any range. I do have the one you are looking at but I don't use it because it gets in the way of my camera set up and my nite site setup. I went with the level that mounts on the weaver rail. When you are mounting the level, you don't have to worry about making sure the gun is leveled first. Very easy
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A level on the breech/action/rail is a very good start no doubt. Once you have the rifle sitting level/plumb in it's rest then you can level the scope(assuming you aren't using open/iron sights). To do so I set a true level(think carpenters level, 4-6' type) standing upright, also known as plump(from the term plumb bob). I line up the vertical cross hair of the scope to align with the edge of the level. This helps to eliminate any cant error while shooting as well as a need for a scope mounted level. Of course this is assuming your dovetail/weaver/picatinny rail is in-line/indexed to your barrel. 

I've been lucky I guess with my S500 in that everything lines up well using this method as it seems most do not and adjustable scope mounts such as the FX No Limits, Burris Signature Zee and other such types are used by a lot of shooters. 

It is also mandatory that you optically center your scope by counting clicks, using the v-box or mirror method before mounting.
 
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You betcha it's a good idea. You can test it for yourself. Shoot a few shots with the scope reticle as vertical as you can, then shoot a few shots with the gun canted about 10 degrees on either side.. That should prove that canting will affect your POI. Bubble levels are available from Optics Planet and other Optics outlets. I got some nice ones on Ebay for $10 each.
 
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Do what I do for this issue...put your rifle in a solid rest, put a trusted accurate, easy to read level on a flat machined part of the rifle. Secure the rifle level in the rest. With the scope loose in the rings aim at a bright red string that is 15 yards or so held down by a carpenter's plum bob. Tap the scope until the string 'disappears'. Done. Tighten scope, recheck.
 
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"Gunnertrones"Remember - it is not the distance itself, but the arch within the distance that matters when it comes to how the pellet/projectile spread due to canting.
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Yes, you are right. But why I say that is due to the different features of the trajectory between the firearms and airgun. we all know the trajectory of the airgun drop much faster than firearms'. So when it is the same cant happened to the airgun and firearms with the same distance, the airgun will bring a much bigger errors than firearm.
 
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Yes, a tilt to one side will destroy accuracy even for air rifles at short distances (25 yards even). Consider a scope that has a 'cant' of 5°. The shooter may think it level due to how he shoulders it. But when a shot is made he adjusts the windage...he is in fact changing elevation as well. And with each shot and further "corrections" the issue becomes more apparent. When a scope is level and adjustments made, only the top turrent affects elevation and side clicks the windage. Happy shooting!
 
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