• The AGN App is ready! Search "Airgun Nation" in your App store. To compliment this new tech we've assigned the "Threads" Feed & "Dark" Mode. To revert back click HERE.

Does anyone know what might be going on here ?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Happens to me a lot with springers when I don't really think about what I am doing. Shoot bad shots in the same hole. Put the gun down for a couple hours and go back and it is dead on. Wonder after 20 shots if your shoulder/neck/arm or something gets a little tired and gun possession changes just a touch. 1/4 inch off scope or shoulder possession can make difference. I would trust my first 20 shots more than the shots after 20. Just me. Good luck to you. CHEERS!
 
Upvote 0
My RWS 34 would do the same thing as fishinwrench's rifle is doing. After purchasing it I shot the rifle with open sights for about a month and it wasn't particularly accurate. I thought it was a combination of my 56 yo eyes and the fact that the sights are better suited for a cannon and grape shot than a rifle. Once the scope arrived I only shot the rifle a few times as it was honking and making odd sounds while cocking.I removed the rifle from the stock and it was dry as a bone so I ordered RWS synthetic chamber lube and spring lube. I put two tiny drops in the chamber and let it sit standing up for two days. Then I three drops on each side of the spring and reassembled.
After I zeroed the scope I noticed that the next time I shot it the shots were low so I moved the zero and continued shooting. As I shot my shots started impacting higher so I reset the zero again. Another thing I noticed was that the air chamber was warm to the touch, the barrel was not. The next shooting session a few days later it did the same thing. I even posted a question here about "springers warming up". I decided to shoot it again a couple days later to see if the rifle repeated and it did. The poi started low and rose as the rifle warmed up. The rifle was not dieseling (synthetic oil), no smoke or smell what so ever. 
I had ordered a Vortek kit and on disassembly I found the factory spring had two bends in it and the walls of the air chamber showing some galling. Everything was cleaned up, a couple drops of chamber oil to make it easier on the piston seal on assembly, moly grease on the piston and spring, then reassembled. The rifle shoots great now, no warming up, no more chasing zero and the shot cycle is so much better. Plus the rifle is very accurate after all.
Sorry for the long reply but this was my experience with a rifle that had the same symptoms as the op. BTW I believe the friction from the bent spring in the air chamber was causing heat I felt. 


 
Upvote 0
The rifle was not dieseling (synthetic oil), no smoke or smell what so ever.
Click to expand...
Synthetic oil has a flash point and will ignite to cause dieseling. If you don't want any dieseling, use Krytox GPL-205 lubricating grease. It has no flash point, will not burn or support combustion. In my opinion, minor dieseling is normal and desirable in a spring gun. Excessive lube can cause detonation which is excessive dieseling and undesirable.
 
Upvote 0
 I agree on the flash point but we are not dealing with temperature, in this case it's pressure or more precisely, compression. How much pressure does it require for RWS synthetic chamber lube to ignite? I looked for a MSDS sheet but couldn't find one.
My 48 diesels, has since I bought it new this spring, it smokes and has the smell of rich diesel idling. The 34 has never smoked or had that smell. I guess that doesn't mean it isn't dieseling but there are very few fuels that are pure enough to burn without smoke, maybe the RWS chamber lube is one of them.
 
Upvote 0
Well here's a new development in this story. I can't imagine WHY but the heavier 18gr. JSB pellets don't do this. They hit the same place on the first shot as they do on the 30th.
Makes no sense to me but I've tested it 3 times now and there's no low/left first shots when using THAT pellet. So I am gonna sight-in with those and save the Premiers for a different gun.

Maybe I am getting some blow-by with the Crosman Premier's until things get warmed up or something. I dunno. The whole thing did start when we went from hi-60°+ days to hi-40° days so maybe it is a weather related issue. The gun and pellets are kept in a warm house though so hell I don't know.
 
Upvote 0
"outdoorman"Well, that throws a wrench into things. In a previous post you said you were shooting the Crosmans AND jsb's so I thought the problem was with both. Some guns are certainly pellet picky but that would not explain why only the first few shots were off but all good after that.
Click to expand...
I know, I actually thought they were both doing it in the beginning, but beings as how I was sighted in with the CP's the JSB's were just "off". Those are just the 2 pellets that the gun shoots best.

The weirdest thing, and I almost don't even wanna bring this up.....is that today after I made the necessary adjustments (about 7 clicks UP and 4 clicks RIGHT) to perfectly zero the JSB's I grabbed 5 CP's just to see where they'd hit. Guess what? all 5 drilled the bullseye. Solid proof that I do not live in a perfect world.

Sometimes you're just better off not knowing things like that!
 
Upvote 0
"Backspin66"I have the same “problem” with my HW95. The first couple of pellets are a half to 1” low, but then it gets on target. I don’t know why.
Click to expand...
I don’t know about you guys but most airgun hunters I know couldn’t /wouldn’t live with a rifle that doesn’t shoot REALLY close to point of aim on the first cold shot. I couldn’t. 
 
Upvote 0
Hector Medina told me to try this if I was going to hunt with my springer but it may be worth a try for any. Take a shot with the "cold" barrel. wait an hour or so, maybe more, take another shot, and so on until you have shot about 5 times. That way each shot would be with a "cold" barrel such as you would have when hunting. Then you will know where your first shot will be, which we all hope ill be the only one we need. That doesn't answer the cure but at least you will know where to hold. Just a thought. I tried it and it is amazing how well my first few shots were "on target" Again - its not the answer for groups moving. You might try emailing him. He is very very knowledgeable on air rifle stuff. His site is
ctcustomairguns.com I believe.
 
Upvote 0
Switching to the heavier (better?) pellet has cured it for me. I can step out anytime and put my first 3 shots right in the middle of a Post-It note at 30 yards now.
Even left the rifle out in the cold garage for 6 hours and thankfully when I tested it all is good. 

Confidence in my set-up is restored. I appreciate all the feedback, and hopefully this will help someone else down the line.
 
Upvote 0
"fishinwrench"Switching to the heavier (better?) pellet has cured it for me. I can step out anytime and put my first 3 shots right in the middle of a Post-It note at 30 yards now.
Even left the rifle out in the cold garage for 6 hours and thankfully when I tested it all is good. 

Confidence in my set-up is restored. I appreciate all the feedback, and hopefully this will help someone else down the line.
Click to expand...
Fish.... glad you got it sorted out. The squirrels will now Fear the Fish. Lol
 
Upvote 0
"1BadDart" My RWS 34 would do the same thing as fishinwrench's rifle is doing. After purchasing it I shot the rifle with open sights for about a month and it wasn't particularly accurate. I thought it was a combination of my 56 yo eyes and the fact that the sights are better suited for a cannon and grape shot than a rifle. Once the scope arrived I only shot the rifle a few times as it was honking and making odd sounds while cocking.I removed the rifle from the stock and it was dry as a bone so I ordered RWS synthetic chamber lube and spring lube. I put two tiny drops in the chamber and let it sit standing up for two days. Then I three drops on each side of the spring and reassembled.
After I zeroed the scope I noticed that the next time I shot it the shots were low so I moved the zero and continued shooting. As I shot my shots started impacting higher so I reset the zero again. Another thing I noticed was that the air chamber was warm to the touch, the barrel was not. The next shooting session a few days later it did the same thing. I even posted a question here about "springers warming up". I decided to shoot it again a couple days later to see if the rifle repeated and it did. The poi started low and rose as the rifle warmed up. The rifle was not dieseling (synthetic oil), no smoke or smell what so ever. 
I had ordered a Vortek kit and on disassembly I found the factory spring had two bends in it and the walls of the air chamber showing some galling. Everything was cleaned up, a couple drops of chamber oil to make it easier on the piston seal on assembly, moly grease on the piston and spring, then reassembled. The rifle shoots great now, no warming up, no more chasing zero and the shot cycle is so much better. Plus the rifle is very accurate after all.
Sorry for the long reply but this was my experience with a rifle that had the same symptoms as the op. BTW I believe the friction from the bent spring in the air chamber was causing heat I felt. 




Might be one of the BEST posts I have ever had the pleasure of reading. Many thanx. Gary
Click to expand...
 
Upvote 0
"GunWhisperer"You're going to laugh at me, but just try this. Next time you go out to shoot, lube your first few rounds. Use anything, some guys like Crisco, doesn't matter. Just try it and tell me if it fixes the problem. Then I'll explain- you won't believe me otherwise. :)
Click to expand...
Well I'm shooting dead on without lubing now.....But I bet you're right, and I'm dying to hear the how's and why's.
Maybe I should start lubing pellets.
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu