So I politely disagree with the gentleman above me. If you have QUALITY hardware and tools (screws and hex keys) he is absolutely right, you shouldn't have a problem removing them.
However my experience is that, unfortunately, quality hardware is a lot rarer than you might expect and so stripping heads or twisting them straight off is sadly not uncommon.
My best advice would be to use either a soldering iron or a micro-torch to apply heat in a relatively precise way, without toasting the scope.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GA80NJO/ ^that is what I'd use. They're cheap and precise. Keep the flame moving on the surface, apply it gently and not too fast, and continuously test to see if the loctite has softened.
A couple things to keep in mind:
1) Not that much heat is actually needed. The threadlocker will have softened by 200F (boiling point of water) and will really loosen up around 300F
2) You're trying to heat the threads, not the heads. Heat accordingly.
3) Anodizing is the canary in the coal mine. At some temperature the dye that has been sunk into the ano's pores (people don't realize, anodizing is naturally "colorless" but highly porous, the color you see is actually a dye or pigment put into the pores of the ano and then sealed) will start to break down first fading then turning an actually quite pleasing bronze color. If you see this, you've gone too far. (this tends to happen around 400-450F relatively slowly, and accelerating with higher temp)
I hope that helps. The thing to keep in mind is not to strip the head. Once you've done that, your options get much much worse quickly. I hope I'm wrong and you can just remove them, but if you start to feel the head on the screw go, you're in trouble as you've taken the metal past its fatigue point. There are hacks, like supergluing in the hex key end that'll give you a little more wiggle room, however keep in mind said hacks aren't compatible with heat so...... yeah. :/