DIY duct seal pellet trap

[Frenchredneck]

I know this "duct seal" trap idea is not new and many have done it already. Just wanted to post pictures of the one I made as it may inspire others since it is very simple, and only requires a table saw (or a circular saw if you are good with it)... No need for a router or a mitter saw like other "complicated build" out there. It also allows to use either standard NRA "10m rifle" targets, or any printed target on "letter" size paper (landscape direction) by the use of 2 sliding slots. Ask if you need any dimension but the easiest is to start by making the "grooves" in the sides 2x6, and the bottom 2x4, and then slide an NRA target into it and mark other measurements from there... a lot easier than measuring everything and reporting measures on wood pieces.

The way the inside shelf is done leaves a gap in front of the duct seal for the bits of paper or cardboard to fall down and be removed later from the "slot" at the back of the trap (see picture from the back)... This way you only have the pellets accumulating over time in the duct seal. I used 15lbs of duct seal and that seems to be the right amount. The "sacrificial" piece of wood behind the duct seal is just 1/2" plywood... anything would do to protect the aluminum in the back (if you have steel go ahead and use steel)... the thing is if you shoot enough .177 pellets first, and only shoot .22 once enough .177 pellets have accumulated in the duct seal, thus increasing resistance, you should never have any pellet going through the duct seal and damage the rear backing... if it does, then add some duct seal were pellets have punched their way through.

 

[intenseaty22]

That’s really good work. I’m not a huge fan of duct seal myself, but that build is very nice! I’ve been wanting to make a wood one like that, but for rubber mulch. 

 

[biohazardman]

Nice job on the pellet trap/Target holder. It should last a very long time with a 10 meter gun. I have a similar unit made from oak, that has been shot for many years and I finally managed to split the top at the joint in the back shooting the 100fpe 9mm at it. My bad, the slugs never did never did penetrate the 2" of duct seal though.

 

[Frenchredneck]

I looked at rubber mulch but was not sure how to keep it in place with the vertical nature of the trap. The only part I think I am going to improve is run a strip of aluminum (I like using aluminum sheets... they cut well with same tools as you use for wood like table saw) on each face of the 2x6... This way if someone (surely hope I won't) misses aiming at one of the 8 side targets, the sides won't collapse... There is only about a 1/4" of wood in front of the target sliding groove... Aluminum strips are cheap insurance, and worried about bounce back if using a steel straight angle or so 

I am also going to add a handle on the top as it is now heavyish after sticking 15 Lbs of duct seal in there.

Intenseaty22 if you decide to make one and have any question, feel free to hit me up

 

[intenseaty22]

FRN I mean it, that's a beautiful build. Very nicely executed. I was going to suggest a handle on top to carry, but I see you already mentioned that. Lot's of folk like the Duct Seal, it's just not my thing, I'm weird that way. I like the being able to clean out the lead out of the mulch from time to time. The issue of how to told the rubber mulch in place is easy. A piece of cardboard will do fine. It gets replaced every couple sessions or so, easy. Not sure if you saw my (lazy) build, I will link it below. 

I still want to build one very much like yours, out of wood, but mine will have hinges and open and close. Will post when I build it in a few weeks....don't hold your breath, it takes me forever to do things around here. I will definitely hit you up if I get stuck. Thanks so much. 

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/rubber-mulch-trap-re-posting/

 

[Frenchredneck]

Hi Intenseaty22, I had seen the thread but not watched the video yet... I get it... What I really like about your rubber mulch pellet trap is how simple the build is... someone who does not have a jig saw can probably even get away with cutting the lid with a utility knife.

I think I responded on that thread. I was actually going to make one of these rubber mulch trap for shooting in the backyard at 30 yards (the duct seal trap is mostly for 10m) with my 22, but I had an old area rug around so I tried that and it worked (only tool required was a utility knife to cut rug strips, and something to cut the few pieces of wood I put in the back of the folded rug strips, but that is optional). Doing that with rubber mulch would be a super easy and cheap option I totally agree. The box is 24x16x15 or little over 3 cu.ft... which means one can make one with 4 bags of 0.8 cu ft rubber mulch (7$ each) from home depot... and transfer the mulch in another cardboard box when the initial box is too damaged,, or tape on a new cardboard front from time to time. Thanks for the discussion. I think what matters is that there are numerous easy to make options so that everyone can make one that works for them with little to no effort.

 

[Peskådot671]

I made a couple pellet traps using duct seal over 10 years ago. I lost all my pics of the build process. I made one that uses 8.5"x11" paper and another that uses 5"×7" or 5"×8" card stock. I mostly use the smaller pellet trap these days for portability. It holds up well with .25cal at 900 fps give or take using at least 4 inch thick duct seal. The only thing now is that after years of use, I need to replace the duct seal or fish out the pellets. BTW, +1 for sharing your build.

Here's mine...

 

[Frenchredneck]

nice Peskadot...! lots of ingeniosity there as well... and camo paint job takes the cake! Glad to hear it can last 10yrs. thanks for sharing your images too - love the simplicity of using the straight angles... makes the sliding "grooves" and protects the edges all at once - nice one 

 

[Peskådot671]

Thanks! I'll take a current pic later and show the condition of how it has held up over the years.

 

[ChrisUSA]

Very nice work. Mine is similar to the box setups shown,.. but mine just has a 1/8 steel plate in the back. Pellets splat, fall to bottom, done. The only debris is from the backer,.. which can be sucked off with a shop vac and then the lead can be recycled. The plate is foam backed and rubber isolated,... so noise is minimal.

While duct seal works fine,... what do you do with 10#+ of lead loaded duct seal when you want to get rid of it?

 

[Frenchredneck]

good point Chris... I guess the day I get out of the hobby I will have to throw in a free "silent duct seal pellet trap" for whoever will buy my gear

I like your idea of the steel plate noise insulated. Do post images if you have a chance. That can show others how much insulation is needed to quiet up the impact on the steel... I did not think it was possible. That is really cool.

 

[intenseaty22]

Pretty cool build guys! Nice work for sure. Wow, 10 years! How heavy is that thing now? I'd love to see a picture of the inside. I would mess around with metal fabrications if I had the time, space, tools, and to a lesser degree know-how. That camo one is interesting, can you even see it while shooting?  Do you ever get any ricochets off of the metal? I think that may be unlikely with lead, but had to ask. 

I'm with @chrisusa in the "what to do with them accumulated lead" It's the reason why I am not too keen on the duct seal. I need to play around with it a bit more, and or see what I got on video, but I think I remember the duct seal being loud? Will update if I find the data. I tried mixing the duct seal and the rubber mulch too, huge fail 

If time allows I will try to work on my wood one today, or sometime this week. Will post finished project then. 

 

[Peskådot671]

Here's how they look after many years kept outside. 







When I first built it, the duct seal was about 3 inches thick. Over the years and after thousands of pellets, the duct seal has expanded outwards from all the pellets that have stacked up. After a few pellets wandered off and split the wood on the top, I realized that I should have cut and mounted a steel piece in place. 

Here's my other one. I don't use it much because it's big & bulky and not as portable. It has been sitting in my carport collecting dust and rust for years.

 

[Frenchredneck]

cool... sure looks like a dependable solution... I am definitely going to protect the "faces" portions of mine before it gets messed up too

 

[Bigragu]

Two styles of duct seal i own. One made with electrical box and has a 1/4” steel plate picture frame bolted on to protect the face, and the other heavy monster made all out of 1/4” plate. The heavy one I use for chronograph testing and the electrical box is used for sight in and all around target shooting. 



This is is my next style I’m going to build when I get ready to go farther out. I’m leaving these buckets out in the field where I shoot, starting with 50 yards and every 10 yards out to 100. Easier to tote around, rubber mulch will be ok out in the weather. I should have these done by end of summer-

 

[Frenchredneck]

Wow Bigragu, those are serious duty versions Love the magnets trick to hold the target board. What caliber made the dents on the step ladder? that seems like hitting hard... Also going to get me a set of golf tees as this is a cheap plinking target option too. thanks for sharing

 

[Bigragu]

French, those dents on my stand were from my hatsan hercules Bully in 30 cal when I first got it. Something was wrong internally as it was shooting all over, obviously, and in less than a month I sent it in under warranty and it got fixed. 

That NEMA 10 x 10 electrical pull box that I use on the stand, with the duct seal is right around 20 or so lbs, so that’s what gets hauled out for target shooting. The one made out of 1/4” plate is for in garage chronograph testing. That’s too heavy to lug around at around 60+ lbs with around 8 lbs of duct seal. I had that built, along with the 1/4” plate picture frame facing to protect my electrical box, after this became of my first one-

The golf tees on a 2 x 4 I got the idea from fellow member James, THE ICEMAN. I just added a cast iron plate behind it to act as a pellet stop. I actually hot glue the paint balls so the paintballs don’t fall off if the set up gets rattled

I tyoically set the paintball ball set up out to 55 or 60 yards, and I had a buddy that I turned on to this hobby accidentally shoot low and the 30 cal Vortex pellets blew right thru the 2 x4. That back up plate saved it by stopping the pellets from going any further. 

Ive since modified this set up by taking my coping saw and cutting 3 slots on top of the 2 x 4 in between the golf tees, to hold playing cards set sideways, to make things more challenging at that distance-

 

[Bigragu]

Pics of a swivel set up I made a year ago, which got boring really quick, and a pic of my sliced card next to my father in laws Jack that he sliced, using my wildcat 30 cal.



French, you did an awesome job on your setup, which is what I originally stewed on in making when I decided I needed a trap, but wood worried me from damage. Can you believe what would’ve happened if I built one as nice as yours and first used it with my Bulky? I would’ve destroyed it right out of the gate, lol.

i guess if one is going to build a sweet one out of wood, one would need to know his gun is accurate enough to make it within the inside dimensions of the box. Well, my Bully wasn’t. It’s all fixed now. Hatsan found a part within the valve system that had come loose during shipment to me from the vendor I bought it from.

 

[sonny]

lmao at the sign on top, what are those balls with the letters made of?

 

[Bigragu]

lmao at the sign on top, what are those balls with the letters made of?

They are foosballs. I went to my local Big5 sporting goods store and chose footballs as the material type, as originally I had golf balls in their place but there were a few kind members here that swayed me from using golf balls, as they are dangerous to shoot at. The footballs handled the 30 cal well.