N/A Digital/Electronic PCPs - Brands besides Daystate and Skout?

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This is a bit off topic, but since @Ultralight brought it up and it was his thread to start with . . . ;)

Honestly, if you want that feature, you might find the Huben K1 to be your best shot at it. It is purely mechanical, but the power wheel does an amazingly repeatable switch in power, and again - it is very repeatable. My .22 K1 regulator is set at about 110 bar, and I have in "nominally" to shoot 18.1 grain pellets ~910 fps, and I position the power wheel with a sharpie mark at 12:00 when looking at it with the muzzle pointed up (the wheel can be positioned however you want it, and then tighten the screw locks it down to the wheel with the detents in it). From there a few clicks counter clockwise (to about 9:00) will raise it to about 970 fps. If I go counter clockwise around to 9:00 again (so 3/4 of a turn from the "nominal"position) it will shoot at about 490 FPS, and it can go lower than that if wanted. The amazing thing is that the speed is very repeatable at any given wheel setting, regardless of where it was set before then.

I was so amazed by this that I ran a unique test a few years back - I loaded up an alternating stack of three different pellets - JSB 25.4s, 18.1s, and 15.9 Hades that all shoot well in the gun. I shot the Monsters at ~42 FPE, the 19.1s at ~32 FPE and the Hedes at ~22 FPE, alternating between three targets in that order, adjusting the power wheel for each shot, verifying speed over the chrony, with each pellet weight going to its own target. The result? Three very good tight groups of five, admittedly at different POIs, and all shot in an acceptable velocity spread for each pellet weight.

I don't have the scope you refer to, but I am familiar with them and they would work great with this gun. As it is for mine, I only load up 18.1s now but I do vary the power as needed and have learned the hold over adjustments needed for the lower power situations I shoot in.

I'm not taking anything away from the Daystates here on this, but for this one "trick" I think the Huben just possibly can't be beat - the ability to shift power by a full order of magnitude with no "normalizing shots" in between is incredible. OF course one has to put the work in before hand to know what the results will be, but once known they are repeatable.

I also have a Sidewinder but I find the power wheel in it is a lot more vague than the Huben, which has solid repeatable clicks . . .
Thank you. This is REMARKABLE. And one advantage the K1 one has over the Daystate is the semi-auto feature. Semi-auto is a bit addictive in some scenarios....:) I wonder if I should start a thread asking K1 owners if they have similar repeatability with their K1s also.


The GK1 has a small piece of solid rubber that holds the power adjustment screen in place so that it does not creep. This piece is very easily replaced in 2 minutes, but it does wear down if one adjusts regularly. With the K1, what holds the power adjustment stable so that it does not turn?
 
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I don't know if it can "beat" it, but my Red Wolf with Heliboard can do what you're suggesting. Very repeatable and very wide range of power... all with a voltage adjustment . Admittedly , it can be a LITTLE slower than a dial, but still pretty easy, quick, and repeatable. That's the one thing I prefer on it over the DW... no reg to adjust... but still very good velocity control over a very wide range.
Bob
Intriguing. Again, had no idea. So what is the advantage of the DW that would lead someone in that direction? Is it because of wider power range due to the regulator adjustment?

In your case, may I ask what caliber, and what is your power range at your regular setting using a particular pellet. For example, from 20 ft lbs to 40 ft lbs with a turn of the dial from min to max. That kind of range will give a sense.
 
I don't know if it can "beat" it, but my Red Wolf with Heliboard can do what you're suggesting. Very repeatable and very wide range of power... all with a voltage adjustment . Admittedly , it can be a LITTLE slower than a dial, but still pretty easy, quick, and repeatable. That's the one thing I prefer on it over the DW... no reg to adjust... but still very good velocity control over a very wide range.
Bob
Yep the heliboard is what daystate should have come up with in the first place. Upgrade worth every cent.
 
I don't know if it can "beat" it, but my Red Wolf with Heliboard can do what you're suggesting. Very repeatable and very wide range of power... all with a voltage adjustment . Admittedly , it can be a LITTLE slower than a dial, but still pretty easy, quick, and repeatable. That's the one thing I prefer on it over the DW... no reg to adjust... but still very good velocity control over a very wide range.
Bob
That is pretty sweet. Have an Air Ranger, and it is just an awesome gun, so I'm sure I would like the Red Wolf. I've kind of looked past it as the form factor is so close to what I have, but maybe I'll have to give it some more thought . . . I've often thought that if the Huben had the accuracy of my Air Ranger that I'd sell off everything but the Huben, but maybe a Heliboard equipped Red Wolf might be a good compromise. I was hoping the new Taipan Slash could be the one, but so far the adjustability does not seem as easy as on the Huben or your Red Wolf.
 
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It seems i

Thank you. This is REMARKABLE. And one advantage the K1 one has over the Daystate is the semi-auto feature. Semi-auto is a bit addictive in some scenarios....:) I wonder if I should start a thread asking K1 owners if they have similar repeatability with their K1s also.


The GK1 is a small piece of solid rubber that holds the power adjustment screen in place so that it does not creep. This piece is very easily replaced in 2 minutes, but it does wear down if one adjusts regularly. With the K1, what holds the power adjustment stable so that it does not turn?
Here is a photo of the parts that make up the Huben K1 adjustment - as you can see, nothing is going to wear out in any conceivable usage. On the stock is the stem assembly that has the shaft that turns the actual adjuster on the closing spring force. You can see the base for it has 4 ball bearing protrusions that interface with the power wheel plate that has 16 divots in it. The actual adjuster that we turn simply has a friction fit to the plate, all held together by one hex screw. Very solid, and very repeatable . . .

As an interesting side note, I have found that when tuning, if one wants to set the gun to slightly more or less power than is available in one click of the wheel, that it can be done by removing the power wheel and turning the stem base (with the the ball bearings in it) by less than a full click in the desired direction, then upon reassembly the new "baseline" sill be set. Alternately that shift can be had by tweaking the regulator setting too . . . .

P1430594.JPG
 
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Intriguing. Again, had no idea. So what is the advantage of the DW that would lead someone in that direction? Is it because of wider power range due to the regulator adjustment?

In your case, may I ask what caliber, and what is your power range at your regular setting using a particular pellet. For example, from 20 ft lbs to 40 ft lbs with a turn of the dial from min to max. That kind of range will give a sense.
The BIGGEST difference would be the form factor, of course. You COULD put a RW in a chassis and that would narrow the differences dramatically. In Factory guise, the RW only has 3 pl's and you need a programmer to make changes beyond those three. I believe , but haven't seen anything in writing , that the DW can store 99 sets in Advanced mode, plus the Factory mode , so it's MUCH more versatile. The Heliboard changes all of that with from the trigger programming and control. In comparison , the reg on the DW is both a blessing and a curse. The RW w Heliboard is pretty much infinitely adjustable between the low and high for your particular setup. In 30 cal, Mine can go from likely below 12 ft lb to for sure 100 ft lb just by selecting pl and adjusting the voltage... Other calibers will have different limits based on projectile and porting in the barrel . The DW is similar for range but can achieve a little more top end. Mine was capable of 110 ft lb in 30 cal and for sure will go as low as 12 ft lb but possibly lower. The reg will narrow the range within it's set reg pressure though. Another big difference is efficiency. I struggle with visualizing a more efficient arrangement than the RW. It is a true free flight hammer with full bottle pressure to the valve. The DW valve, in contrast, is a semi-balanced arrangement that was designed around the bullpup form to have a LARGE range of power, but is much less efficient. This will translate to problems that occur with waste air... less shots per charge and potential projectile instability.
So, in factory guise, you would choose based on versatility and form factor and gain or lose based on that...
Not mentioned above is the chrono..😉... I love having the chrono...
Bob
 
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That is pretty sweet. Have an Air Ranger, and it is just an awesome gun, so I'm sure I would like the Red Wolf. I've kind of looked past it as the form factor is so close to what I have, but maybe I'll have to give it some more thought . . . I've often thought that if the Huben had the accuracy of my Air Ranger that I'd sell off everything but the Huben, but maybe a Heliboard equipped Red Wolf might be a good compromise. I was hoping the new Taipan Slash could be the one, but so far the adjustability does not seem as easy as on the Huben or your Red Wolf.
Why is this? Do you prefer the Huben's form factor and operationally?

Interestingly, some K1s seem to be extremely accurate. I've seen 50 50-yard shot that is virtually a hole-in-one type of accuracy. One guy on Youtube shoots 300 yards and wasn't a challenge enough, so he took 4 shots to hit 2 coke cans at 500 yards. I know, sounds preposterous. I think his is a customized, but I'm not sure how.

Also, THANK YOU AlanMcD and Arzrover for your great info.
 
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