Diana Diana Airbug

I just got a new Airbug, and must say after I finally got loading the magazine down pat, It is probably the most fun air gun I have shot in a long time. Nine shots as fast as I can operate the bolt and aim. I have some more magazines from Carm coming, but those will be a while. It was chilly and too windy to really do anything but I did shoot a few shots yesterday, but today was perfect.
 
spend the time to take the grip frame off to see how the trigger works
you have one trigger adjustment screw that you can see in the trigger and that adjustment screw is too short but there is a second trigger adjustment screw that you cannot see and that adjustment screw does nothing unless you replace it
all trigger adjustments can be made with the grip frame off
the Airbug is a Chaser with a few changes
i have completely rebuilt my Chasers trigger assembles
 
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spend the time to take the grip frame off to see how the trigger works
you have one trigger adjustment screw that you can see in the trigger and that adjustment screw is too short but there is a second trigger adjustment screw that you cannot see and that adjustment screw does nothing unless you replace it
all trigger adjustments can be made with the grip frame off
the Airbug is a Chaser with a few changes
i have completely rebuilt my Chasers trigger assembles
Looking at your later post with pictures, a couple of those screws appear to have rounded bearing ends. What size and type screws are these?
I understand the screw that is accessable through the trigger guard is for sear engagement, what does that hidden screw do?

It's early Sunday, I may take the grip off and take a look later today.
 
i used to epoxy bearing balls on the ends of the grub screws but bought these instead
i got some in 8mm and 10mm
you see i have 6 Chasers and many other parts and just got 2-.25 cal kits, so i am deep down the rabbit hole
https://www.ebay.com/itm/163602967720?var=463018206665

the Diana model 5 and 6 pistols use a bearing ball and adjustable spring arrangement as part of the trigger adjustment
i saw these and said why not, a little pricey but who cares at this point
 
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I was shooting it quite a bit this afternoon and the grub screw in the trigger was backing out, so I removed the stock and started playing with it. I put some blue loctite on it. I think I discovered that the hidden screw adjusts the first stage takeup.

when you said you bought 2-.25 cal kits, I hope you mean 2.5mm grub screws. I orderd a few lengths. To give me an idea what length do you recommend for those two screws.
 
Well I went ahead and picked up some ball end grub screws, really need some longer ones as the ones I got for the trigger are working but too short, so some more should be here in a day or two. I applied a home brew mix of synthetic gun grease with a touch of moly paste mixed in and applied to the sear and have gotten the trigger down to a nice 12 oz consistant pull. I pulled my Crosman 2300S out for comparison and really like the Airbug better, with the bolt handle on the left, and the loading port/tray completely open it loads much easier, plus no screw down there for the pellet to hang up on, just a better design. I think the trigger on the Airbug is better than those on the Crosman guns, even the 1701p trigger which I have in most of my guns. It's got me to thinking I may sometime in the not too distant future have to consider a Bandit and a hand pump,
 
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i agree with you i have been the on the Chaser band wagon for a long time
is better than the 2240 out of the box no question the Snowpeak product is better in all ways except one PARTS

now the trigger i know it so well
i will tell you putting in the trigger stop in the sear will make you go way and why your finger is the thing that upsets the accuracy but when it stops moving it stops everything for that micro second
the sear is hard as hell and can't be drilled with softening it up
a 3mm grub screw installed between the 2 adjustment screws
you need a torch to turn that area red hot, you need an automatic center punch to mark the position and i hit it 6 to 10 times
i use a drill press with a 2mm carbide bit and then drill it out to 2.5mm and tap it with a 3mm x .50 tap
and that is a lot of stuff to drill one hole and i understand that
and then if done you sit at table and adjust that new screw
i have been using Teflon plumbers tape on the screws, why, it is easy

so why work on the trigger
i have a FWB model 90 and it has a Eletronic trigger and they are a touch trigger and i like a lot
so, that was my goal to get to that point of feel and my trigger has 1.5mm of movement , now i own 6 Chasers and all have been done and each takes about 2 hours to cut new pins, fit the shims in the sides and fit everything

so the Chaser vs 2240
fit and finish Chaser
sights Chaser
breech Chaser
easy to work on Chaser
grip well it could be close but with the Buck Rail it is Chaser
the barrels are about the same
fps i think the Chaser wins but close
now parts Crosman all the way

enjoy your pistol and if i can do anything for you just message me
mike
 
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i always wanted to get a chaser the 2240 stock not so great if you want a build its all good i guess .I always wondered why Crossman never expanded on the Vigilante inside quality is very bad.The air tube between the co2 to the valve has like no real adhesive.I wish they just up the build quality and make a 22 cal.That would be a hit I believe.I broke that seal on 4 of those guns I finally learned to fix it.The way I broke them is by a very non recommended the super power mod I used to get slamming power out of any co2. Heat the co2 with a heat gun I have done this for like 20 years .Its always a risk but i pay attention and have done thousand or 2 at least. DONT DO unless u\you are a risk taker big.
 
Well Mike that all sounds interesting. I have a drill press but don't think I want to start heating and drilling on parts that I might not be able to replace. I could do with an even lighter trigger pull, I also shoot a IZH 45m with about a 3 oz trigger, but wonder how such a light pull would be with a bolt type action. I'll just be content with the way I have it now and consider it more a sporting than a pure target model.
 
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the sear is big enough that the rear that touches the hammer is not being effected
the 2 points of contact would never harm that sear as hard as it is
every time i drill one i wonder if the 2mm bit is going to explode
it is just an idea you can test the feel by put a piece of material under the sear and if you found the right thickness that could be your trigger stop
the trigger assembly can be mildly changed or a little more or full Monty
it give the tinkerer that has little to no knowledge to an advanced tinkerer ways to improve the trigger
i am a trigger snob and will tear into a gun before i even shoot it
yes the IZH 46m has a scary trigger
well enjoy you pistol
i am just trying to finish up two .25 caliber setups, never stop tinkering

mike
 
Yes the Izzy can be scary, especially for the uninitiated. I started liking good triggers back in college when I got on the ROTC rifle team shooting Winchester 52d and Remington 40x's. I then learned how and tuned the trigger on my Winchester model 70, and some years later got a FWB 300s and the rest is history. Colt 1911's Browning HP, S&W revolvers, Remington 700, some old military Mausers, and lately a new CZ 457.

I have been lubing a lot of things with a compound you do not here much about, HBN or hexagonal boron nitride. It comes in different forms, can be used as a solid block for low speed, low pressure bearings,. If you see some cosmetic products such as lotions, shampoos that have a pearlescent appearance, that is what gives that look. It adds a feeling of slickness, also used in ladies lipstick for the same purpose, so it is non toxic. Get some on your fingers and you will see how slick and smooth it feels. I have used it to tumble bullets as a lube and have added a tiny bit to tins of pellets for the same purpose. This airbug tended to have the bolt sticking so with it to the rear, I dipped my fingertip in some of the powder then rubbed it on the exposed parr ot the bolt, and then a tiny dab in the bolt opening. I also took the mainspring out , dipped both ends and shook the excess off. Put things back together and it is much smoother. I have also used it in oils or mixing into grease as a lube. It is a lot less messy than Moly, as it is a white powder.
 
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Nice to meet all of you. Spent over 50 years competitively shooting rifles. Everything from .22 rimfire to .50 cal black powder. Until NRA went to the dogs I was a pistol instructor. Got my AirBug yesterday and YES, am just learning. Thanks to all of you for sharing your experience and expertise. I have noticed that many have trouble with the grip (e.g. too big, too small, etc.) Has anyone tried using the Talon stick-on stippling, and if so, how did it go???
 
the Airbug is kind of a mix of CP1 and CP2 but it would be a good candidate for a Buck Rail grip frame and then you are to a AR-15 grip and or convert to a 1911 grip with an adapter
but the Talon product should give you better hand grip feel but i have never used it
i always thought the Snowpeak grips were a bit chunky
Mike, agree on that statement for sure. The proportions just seem off a bit here/there.... Then there is the Chaser grip which is kinda funky too. I know Diana had to make it that way to accommodate the shoulder stock attachment point. Not sure what the idea was on the Airbug. Probably OK if you have "Bigfoot" size hands. I always wanted to try a "stippled" grip from a Diana Bandit (on my Airbug, that is) to see if that feels any better. If anyone has a "spare" Bandit grip they can part with let me know.

Switching gears here, I had both my Airbug and Chaser pistols out at the range recently, and couldn't help noticing the Airbug was distinctly harder to "cock" the bolt. It seems the hammer spring was stronger in the Airbug than the Chaser. Does that make sense? I have yet to run the pistols over my chronograph to check the respective velocities. That would probably be the easy way to verify a stronger spring in the Airbug (or not). Thoughts on this?
 
on the cocking
there is a 3mm grub screw that put pressure on the bolt in the rear of the breech
on some of mine i have put in white grease and a piece of felt and tighten the screw to get to right feel
i have also found that the bolts can be very loose and one would never know that they can be fixed
now on the hammer spring
the hammer springs should be the same but who know for sure without part numbers to compare it is a crap shoot and hell these are made in China batches of parts could be all different or not
hammer spring changes and or shimming can be done for more or less power
my attitude has been who cares
now this picture is of a Trailscout but the breeches are more or less the same
i did find one that had a screw but was blocked by what i thought was a ball but till tonight never really looked
so, here is the picture of the parts and there is a rubber ball the grub screw tightens against and not a drop of any lube present

that is all i have for you
take out the ball and add grease a piece of felt and add grub screw and adjust
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on the cocking
there is a 3mm grub screw that put pressure on the bolt in the rear of the breech

on some of mine i have put in white grease and a piece of felt and tighten the screw to get to right feel
i have also found that the bolts can be very loose and one would never know that they can be fixed
now on the hammer spring
the hammer springs should be the same but who know for sure without part numbers to compare it is a crap shoot and hell these are made in China batches of parts could be all different or not
hammer spring changes and or shimming can be done for more or less power
my attitude has been who cares
now this picture is of a Trailscout but the breeches are more or less the same
i did find one that had a screw but was blocked by what i thought was a ball but till tonight never really looked
so, here is the picture of the parts and there is a rubber ball the grub screw tightens against and not a drop of any lube present

that is all i have for you
take out the ball and add grease a piece of felt and add grub screw and adjust View attachment 462692

View attachment 462688

Thanks Mike for all that info. Re the Airbug vs Chaser cocking effort, it seems that the spring itself is much stronger in the Airbug. I don't think that the 3mm grub and ball has anything to do with it, as both bolts move smoothly back/forth otherwise. It's only the increased cocking effort that is noticeable in the Airbug. If one didn't HAVE both pistols, this is something you wouldn't notice. Just for kicks, when I have some time, I'll run them over the chrono just to check if the Bug does shoot harder. Like you said though, who really cares? It is just a curiosity for me is all...