Having a hard time figuring out what size the 2 grub screws are that hold the muzzle brake to the barrel .They're really small and I don't have any thing that fits ...need to tighten them a bit although I do realize that the threaded end cap helps to keep it tight at the muzzle end .There's a little play where the grub screws are ..if that's what in fact they are because I can't see if they have a hexagonal shape to them or not because they're so small..it's hard to tell ...
Diana 350 pro compact .22
- Thread starter Ace31269
- Start date
maybe a super bright light and a magnify loop ? but 99% sure of very small Allan set screws , Harbor Fgt. sells inexpensive sets ,
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They would be metric. Probably Allen. If newer could be Star Torx. But doubtful. May need heat to remove.
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I just took mine off to clean, last week. When I get home from work I will check, assuming no one gets back to you before then. (It’s a hex key.)
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@Ace31269,
Yes, most likely metric hex socket set screws as others have already mentioned. Use a magnifier and a little flashlight to verify. I have a muzzle brake/grip on my RWS 34 Panther Pro compact which would not stay tight. I had to use blue removable grade thread locking compound on the set screws. This stuff comes in a small tube, a common brand is loctite. Be careful with it, as a little goes a long way and it flows rapidly!
Also, I believe the barrel on my rifle had a couple of pre-drilled sockets that were meant for the set screws to engage. You want to be sure that the screws are properly aligned with these holes and then use thread locking compound.
GL,
Feinwerk
Yes, most likely metric hex socket set screws as others have already mentioned. Use a magnifier and a little flashlight to verify. I have a muzzle brake/grip on my RWS 34 Panther Pro compact which would not stay tight. I had to use blue removable grade thread locking compound on the set screws. This stuff comes in a small tube, a common brand is loctite. Be careful with it, as a little goes a long way and it flows rapidly!
Also, I believe the barrel on my rifle had a couple of pre-drilled sockets that were meant for the set screws to engage. You want to be sure that the screws are properly aligned with these holes and then use thread locking compound.
GL,
Feinwerk
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The grub screws use a 2mm hex key/wrench. Mine were loctited on. I had to use some mild force to loosen them- certainly not enough to bend the small hex key/wrench. When reinstalling, it was easiest to align the rear grub screw (toward the stock) in the correct dimple, first. The front one then slid right in place.
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Thanks fellas for all the helpful info..off to harbor freight I go.anywho took her out today and the winds were fierce but by 430 in the afternoon ..dead wiind ..hopped on chairgun because I use hawke scopes and was half inch high at fifty with 16 clicks...pushed out to 8o requiring 61 clicks and hit about and 1 half high..but windage was spot on ..couldn't belive it ..I'm now suffering from a sore back a bruised collarbone due to the buttpad being made of hard plastic instead of soft rubber and a cocking force of 45 lbs ...probably a good guess was 120 shots but it was worth it .still can't believe that it shoots so straight at that distance..horizontally of course but I need to dial in my elevation just a touch . Chairgun data was 815 fps with14.3 crisman premieres. Zero at 25 yards ...
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Thas funny you mention indentations fir the grub to set in the muzzle brake ...that has to be true on my 350 as well because it does hold front to rear of the barrel but it just has a tiny bit maybe 16th of an inch of left to right play ..but if I cranked on the end cap it seems to keep that play at bay ...but after 50 or shots that end cap will work its way loose ..but very small probably as 16th as well ...it does have a rubber garden hose washer that takes the brunt of the recoil on the end cap ..I'm sure it's metric..but should be an easy find .thanks for the reply
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Oh sweet thanks man I had suspicion that the grub screws seated into dimples in the barrel..really hard to see though considering 2mm is about as big as an Alabama tick .I'm thinking all I need to do is tighten them because to be honest the end cap when tightened keeps the brake from moving in a circular fashion well enough..but us springer guys feel threatened by loose screws on the rifle at any location on the rifle lol so to speak. And thank you for the info because to be honest it will shoot Lazer accurate if everything on my behalf is in check ..thanks again brother
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@Ace31269 ,
If you can do pull-ups, you can handle cocking that 350 all day long, just be careful where you rest the butt while you're pulling on the barrel and make it ergonomic on yourself.
I have the original 350 Magnum and it has the full length barrel. It has a heavy spring and jumps quite a bit during the shot cycle.
I found that a looser hold, aka 'the artillery hold' (look it up), was better for accuracy and puts less pressure on the shoulder. You mentioned a bruised collarbone, you may be pulling the butt too hard into your shoulder. Experiment with that hold pressure to see which is more consistent for you.
The position of the fingers on your shooting hand is critical for consistency with a springer that jumps like these do. I found that a careful trigger pinch technique using mostly index finger and thumb on the wrist of the stock, was most important, with less involvement of the other fingers.
Feinwerk
If you can do pull-ups, you can handle cocking that 350 all day long, just be careful where you rest the butt while you're pulling on the barrel and make it ergonomic on yourself.
I have the original 350 Magnum and it has the full length barrel. It has a heavy spring and jumps quite a bit during the shot cycle.
I found that a looser hold, aka 'the artillery hold' (look it up), was better for accuracy and puts less pressure on the shoulder. You mentioned a bruised collarbone, you may be pulling the butt too hard into your shoulder. Experiment with that hold pressure to see which is more consistent for you.
The position of the fingers on your shooting hand is critical for consistency with a springer that jumps like these do. I found that a careful trigger pinch technique using mostly index finger and thumb on the wrist of the stock, was most important, with less involvement of the other fingers.
Feinwerk
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