Anybody actully got some setting info ? Bar Dwell Volt. best fps just anything with actully up to date latest work...Thanks
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Deltawolf .25 settings
- Thread starter gyeghoian
- Start date
I've got an Alpha Wolf and have found it does everything I want on factory settings. No need to use Advanced mode.
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Copied from the Alpha& Delta Wolf group on Facebook:
In case anyone is interested,
This are my tables so far.
For .22, from 14.5 to 25 redesigned and slug howler 20. Also Poly 16.
Run around 935 fps. To 1000 fps on slugs.
Very accurate.
I know .22 and .25 are similar hopefully it will help.
In case anyone is interested,
This are my tables so far.
For .22, from 14.5 to 25 redesigned and slug howler 20. Also Poly 16.
Run around 935 fps. To 1000 fps on slugs.
Very accurate.
I know .22 and .25 are similar hopefully it will help.
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Factory settings work great. I’d suggest using them. That’s why you bought a Delta/Alpha. Otherwise using Advanced settings you might as well have bought a Red Wolf. With factory settings try and use the lowest reg pressure that will achieve the speed that you desire.
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Could you clarify the differences for me? I am interested in a Red Wolf hp.22, but do not know Jack about programming
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The difference is with a Red Wolf, there is only a pressure sensor that works off bottle pressure and an algorithm that tells the gun control unit to shoot at whatever settings give the gun a power that you want. So, as the gun pressure goes down, the GCU will cause the solenoid (hammer) to hit the valve hard enough to give consistent power from 250 bar down to the pressure where it can no longer make that power. For my .25 RW HP with King Heavy pellets, that is about 170 bar.
For a DW/AW, in Advanced Mode, it is similar, except the regulator in the gun keeps the pressure in the plenum constant, so the gun functions similar to the RW, but reacts to the constant REG pressure vice the decreasing BOTTLE pressure.
For a DW/AW in Factory Mode, it does the same PLUS it uses the signal from the barrel's chronograph to input pellet Speed back into the equation. So, if the speed is set for 875 FPS, and the pellets goes at greater than 4 FPS higher or lower than set speed for two consecutive shots, the GCU will adjust the hammer strike (voltage and/or dwell) to lower/raise the speed towards the operator's set point.
Make sense? The gun retains those settings at the set speeds that the operator has used, so that the next time you select that speed it already knows what worked prior, and can set those parameters so the gun shoots at the set speed very quickly, usually on the first shot...
What is the big advantage to that you might ask? We don't always shoot at the same atmospheric conditions (temp, pressure, altitude). On a regular gun (Red Wolf, Impact, Cricket, Thomas, RAW, Taipan, etc.), temperature or altitude will affect the speed at which the gun shoots. So, if you go out at 7am, and its 45 degrees, your gun might be shooting at 855 or 860 FPS and you zero your gun before you head out. Then as the day goes on and temp gets to 85 degrees and might be shooting at 880 or 885 FPS. Not within "minute of squirrel" at 100 yards. Also, you may have tuned and zero'd your gun at sea level, but later on taken it to shoot target or hunt at 4000 feet elevation. It will shoot at a different speed with a different POI there than at home.
With the DW/AW in Factory Mode, the gun will sense any speed changes and auto correct to your set speed as conditions change. Start at 45 degrees, or sea level, temp goes up or you change elevation, gun still shoots at set speed. The downside is that you'll no longer be able to blame the gun when you miss!
For a DW/AW, in Advanced Mode, it is similar, except the regulator in the gun keeps the pressure in the plenum constant, so the gun functions similar to the RW, but reacts to the constant REG pressure vice the decreasing BOTTLE pressure.
For a DW/AW in Factory Mode, it does the same PLUS it uses the signal from the barrel's chronograph to input pellet Speed back into the equation. So, if the speed is set for 875 FPS, and the pellets goes at greater than 4 FPS higher or lower than set speed for two consecutive shots, the GCU will adjust the hammer strike (voltage and/or dwell) to lower/raise the speed towards the operator's set point.
Make sense? The gun retains those settings at the set speeds that the operator has used, so that the next time you select that speed it already knows what worked prior, and can set those parameters so the gun shoots at the set speed very quickly, usually on the first shot...
What is the big advantage to that you might ask? We don't always shoot at the same atmospheric conditions (temp, pressure, altitude). On a regular gun (Red Wolf, Impact, Cricket, Thomas, RAW, Taipan, etc.), temperature or altitude will affect the speed at which the gun shoots. So, if you go out at 7am, and its 45 degrees, your gun might be shooting at 855 or 860 FPS and you zero your gun before you head out. Then as the day goes on and temp gets to 85 degrees and might be shooting at 880 or 885 FPS. Not within "minute of squirrel" at 100 yards. Also, you may have tuned and zero'd your gun at sea level, but later on taken it to shoot target or hunt at 4000 feet elevation. It will shoot at a different speed with a different POI there than at home.
With the DW/AW in Factory Mode, the gun will sense any speed changes and auto correct to your set speed as conditions change. Start at 45 degrees, or sea level, temp goes up or you change elevation, gun still shoots at set speed. The downside is that you'll no longer be able to blame the gun when you miss!
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Thank you kindly for the explanation. I picked up what you were laying down.
I wonder how long before this type of electronic technology finds its’ way into a classic stock airgun? Skeletonized/AR/Bullpup style airguns do not appeal to me in the least, but I find the technology that you just explained very interesting
I wonder how long before this type of electronic technology finds its’ way into a classic stock airgun? Skeletonized/AR/Bullpup style airguns do not appeal to me in the least, but I find the technology that you just explained very interesting
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Centercut
I am OCD about my gun and have had it about 2years shoot it alot , wash sort ,weigh all the good stuff.....polished barrel and wow did that make a difference, 25cal DW ....JSB .25 963fps 2600us 74v 140 reg ....shoots lights out. 25yrd zero ..hole in hole basically , got any great number one tips for gun tune? 50 yrds under MOA no wind.......who likes wind lol
Greg
I am OCD about my gun and have had it about 2years shoot it alot , wash sort ,weigh all the good stuff.....polished barrel and wow did that make a difference, 25cal DW ....JSB .25 963fps 2600us 74v 140 reg ....shoots lights out. 25yrd zero ..hole in hole basically , got any great number one tips for gun tune? 50 yrds under MOA no wind.......who likes wind lol
Greg
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@Centercut great info, wish Daystate would publish such facts as this would be great for the wider community or our purchaser to know…
Question is with this advantage why do competitors seem to pull towards the RW? Is it ergonomics ?
Question is with this advantage why do competitors seem to pull towards the RW? Is it ergonomics ?
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Greg, try Factory Mode. The software is full up round now and as long as you set the reg pressure to the lowest that your gun will make the power you desire it’ll shoot the most accurately. I’ve detailed in another post here on AGN how to go about doing that. See below:
Ok firstly at least for .30 and .25, use FACTORY mode. Set reg pressure higher, like 165 or 160 bar. I’m not sure
f this method works with .22 because I haven’t used .22 much.Decide which speed you want. Try various speeds until you find you’re most accurate with that ammo.
Now, once you know, lower reg pressure 10 bar. Now see if the gun will do your speed in 3 or 4 shots. If it does, lower 10 bar again. Try to get to your desired speed. Keep going until you get to a pressure that your gun won’t come up to speed.
Now raise pressure 5 bar and try to get to your speed. If it does, you’ve found your pressure. If it doesn’t quickly in no more than 4 or 5 shots, raise it 5 bar again. That’s your new pressure. My gun that is 135 bar in .30 caliber for 86 FPE.
Make sense?
I recommend using factory mode with this “lowest functional” pressure.
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Guys like rifles for BR, plus the top shooters shooting RW have been doing so for years. It’s a personal preference. I shot a .25 RW to place third in Pro 100Y at EBR (3/110) but I’ve also shot the .30 DW at the EFT GP in Utah and finished third (3/60). I like the DW better for bucket and sticks or prone, and the RW better for Benchrest. Both are accurate, one is not more accurate than the other.
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Centercut: Thank you for your valuable input through your comments in AGN. As a DW owner that avoids tinkering with it, I pay close attention to your published comments, most enthusiastically because they come from an experienced air gunner who has first hand knowledge of the product. Keep us informed.
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Fascinating. How much improvement in precision do you get when you use a lower vs higher regulator pressure? And why do you think this is happening? Is it because the valve opens longer and air flow is smoother through the barrel, or that there is less "shock" due to lower pressure differential when the valve opens, or something else? And is this why you put a Huma on your Pulsar, i.e., to control pressure the solenoid sees?Greg, try Factory Mode. The software is full up round now and as long as you set the reg pressure to the lowest that your gun will make the power you desire it’ll shoot the most accurately. I’ve detailed in another post here on AGN how to go about doing that. See below:
Ok firstly at least for .30 and .25, use FACTORY mode. Set reg pressure higher, like 165 or 160 bar. I’m not sure
Decide which speed you want. Try various speeds until you find you’re most accurate with that ammo.
Now, once you know, lower reg pressure 10 bar. Now see if the gun will do your speed in 3 or 4 shots. If it does, lower 10 bar again. Try to get to your desired speed. Keep going until you get to a pressure that your gun won’t come up to speed.
Now raise pressure 5 bar and try to get to your speed. If it does, you’ve found your pressure. If it doesn’t quickly in no more than 4 or 5 shots, raise it 5 bar again. That’s your new pressure. My gun that is 135 bar in .30 caliber for 86 FPE.
Make sense?
I recommend using factory mode with this “lowest functional” pressure.
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Actually, the opposite. When I set my .30 DW shooting 50.1 grain JSB at 875 fps, and reg pressure at 135 bar in Factory Mode, the gun selects 2570 micro-sec and 81.5 vdc. This gives it a harder, but shorter burst of air compared to some of the pre-programmed Advanced setting which may have me at a higher Dwell and lower Voltage... As far as accuracy differential, I can't say, since I "think" its more accurate but I don't have indoor testing facility at 100 yards, and its hard to tell shooting in the real world.
Yes, I put a Huma in my FT gun the .177 Pulsar standard for that exact reason. Although with the new Heli-Boards that have the auto tune feature I may have skipped adding the reg, but my gun has an older HeliBoard in it.
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Autotune feature? I have a Heliboard on an Air Wolf and was thinking about one for the Red Wolf Safari, but decided it shoots RD just fine at the default mid setting - about 975 fps.
What is this "auto-tune" feature you speak of?
Thanks.
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From Jack in Greece:
New Calibration menu.
With this menu you can:
1) Apply a single pulse to ALL pressure points. With this feature you can quickly test a pulse to any pressure.
2) Create a map for a specific power level entering pulses for all capable pressure points.
3) Create a map for a specific power level entering pulses for 2+ pressure points and using the auto CALCulation function. In order to proceed with this, you need to first set ALL points to zero.
Menu cycling and functionality.
ALL-CALC-pressure points 70bar-260bar in 10bar step.
In order to select the desired function long press trigger and release immediately when asterisk is shown on screen.
When you select a pressure point, press and quick release to modify the digits and long press to save.
ALL: Apply a constant pulse to the whole pressure range.
CALC: After applying ALL to zero (0000) and choosing and modifying 2+ pressure points, you can use this feature to generate all other data sets automatically.
Video demo of level calibration
Link to new HeliBoard features
New Calibration menu.
With this menu you can:
1) Apply a single pulse to ALL pressure points. With this feature you can quickly test a pulse to any pressure.
2) Create a map for a specific power level entering pulses for all capable pressure points.
3) Create a map for a specific power level entering pulses for 2+ pressure points and using the auto CALCulation function. In order to proceed with this, you need to first set ALL points to zero.
Menu cycling and functionality.
ALL-CALC-pressure points 70bar-260bar in 10bar step.
In order to select the desired function long press trigger and release immediately when asterisk is shown on screen.
When you select a pressure point, press and quick release to modify the digits and long press to save.
ALL: Apply a constant pulse to the whole pressure range.
CALC: After applying ALL to zero (0000) and choosing and modifying 2+ pressure points, you can use this feature to generate all other data sets automatically.
Video demo of level calibration
Link to new HeliBoard features
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Centercut,
Wow what would we do without all of your knowledge, I look forward to your post so I can learn more about DW ....so sick and tired of seeing post about Impact that I could Puke!!! yes its a great gun! but I crave that kind of posting for the Deltawolf which most diffenilrty is the future, keep pointing which direction to go?
Thanks Greg
Wow what would we do without all of your knowledge, I look forward to your post so I can learn more about DW ....so sick and tired of seeing post about Impact that I could Puke!!! yes its a great gun! but I crave that kind of posting for the Deltawolf which most diffenilrty is the future, keep pointing which direction to go?
Thanks Greg
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What are you shooting king heavys at in your 25cal? what groups do you see at 50 yrds and 100? "see just cant stop asking!! ".. LOL
Greg
Greg
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Thanks, appreciate that!
My .25 Red Wolf that I shot at EBR came shooting 960 to 965 FPS on Medium with King Heavy (High was about 1000 FPS). It was slightly too fast because it would "keyhole" at 100 yards about once out of every ten shots. So, I borrowed a tuner and adjusted the Medium setting to give me 935 to 940 FPS, and that's what I shot at EBR 100Y finals. 50 Yard groups are about half dime size, but I don't waste my time much at 50 yards. At 100 yards two weeks prior to EBR I shot three 10-shot groups back-to-back at 100Y in calm conditions. All three could be covered by a quarter. One week prior I shot two EBR cards at 100Y and fairly windy conditions. (10 to 12 mph) Scores were 225-6x and 233-4x. I knew then I was ready...
My .25 Red Wolf that I shot at EBR came shooting 960 to 965 FPS on Medium with King Heavy (High was about 1000 FPS). It was slightly too fast because it would "keyhole" at 100 yards about once out of every ten shots. So, I borrowed a tuner and adjusted the Medium setting to give me 935 to 940 FPS, and that's what I shot at EBR 100Y finals. 50 Yard groups are about half dime size, but I don't waste my time much at 50 yards. At 100 yards two weeks prior to EBR I shot three 10-shot groups back-to-back at 100Y in calm conditions. All three could be covered by a quarter. One week prior I shot two EBR cards at 100Y and fairly windy conditions. (10 to 12 mph) Scores were 225-6x and 233-4x. I knew then I was ready...
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