FX Degassing an FX Crown MkII

[SilentSquirrel]

Hello
I have read that degassing the FX Crown M II should be performed when adjusting the regulator.
Please tell me the best way to do this without damaging the firing valve or other components.
Experienced advice appreciated.
Thanks
Edward

 

[jking]

Maybe loosen the bottle till it bleeds off that side of the regulator and then loosen the regulated pressure gauge. Although firing a couple of shots after relieving the bottle pressure which I do most of the time, is quicker, the gauge route might be easier on the internals when firing those shots. But a pain, I know removing the stock, but doing so gives you a better view of the regulator anyway.
jk

 

[18.13]

Take the bottle off then turn your regulator screw counter clockwise (up)

 

[Chukar60]

18.13 has the easiest method I tried.
Also, if you are increasing your reg pressure there is no need to de-gas the gun.

 

[davit66]

Here’s the page from the FX manual for adjusting the stock FX reg. However, if you have a Huma reg you must degas the gun before making ANY adjustments.

 

[qball]

Unscrew the bottle and dry fire couple of times with lowest hammer wheel setting.

 

[NAProf]

I agree with 18.13 - take off the bottle, then turn the reg about 1/4 turn counterclockwise. I had a bad experience with dryfiring a new-to-me Crown MkII to empty the plenum. I did not know that the rifle was set up with a Tungsten Hammer and I forgot to turn the Power Wheel to 1. Ended up smashing the Valve pin and deforming the area of the block around the pin so much that the pin wouldn't close under pressure. Had to send to FX USA to get them to redrill the valve pin port. They did it under warranty (and included a new valve and seat) even though I was the third owner of the rifle. Still it cost me shipping one way and about 3 weeks of not having the rifle.
Cheers,
Greg

 

[Long_Gun_Dallas]

18.13 has the easiest method I tried.
Also, if you are increasing your reg pressure there is no need to de-gas the gun.

I'd consider it good practice to de-pressurize no matter what regulator adjustments you make.

 

[Long_Gun_Dallas]

Unscrew the bottle and dry fire couple of times with lowest hammer wheel setting.

If you have a heavy hammer, this can damage the gun. I've damaged my mk1 valve pin guide like this while using a 7gm hammer weight. Factory mk1 hammer is pretty light, and by it's-self causes no issues doing this.

 

[SilentSquirrel]

Thanks to each of you for the advice
It is most appreciated.
And seeing the variety of answers one can understand my concern about when to degas and how to dry fire.
Bottles are new to me (as is the Crown)
Is removing the bottle truly a simple matter of unscrewing it?
Anything to lookout for?
Also. it appears to me as if it can be done with the action remaining in the stock?
Reverse & repeat for re-installation?

FWIW
The rifle is absolutely stock

Edward

 

[18.13]

Don't use silicon oil or greese on the bottle threads
No need to remove the stock

 

[SilentSquirrel]

Don't use silicon oil or greese on the bottle threads
No need to remove the stock

I learned that mistake a while ago by applying silicone grease on the metal to metal connection on an air tube
Nasty!

 

[qball]

If you have a heavy hammer, this can damage the gun. I've damaged my mk1 valve pin guide like this while using a 7gm hammer weight. Factory mk1 hammer is pretty light, and by it's-self causes no issues doing this.

I had the slug power kit with extra 14g hammer and no issues dry firing, I dry fire couple of times after each fill of air. Dry fire isn’t much different than firing with a pellet, just lacking back pressure and more air will come out. Mine is a MK2, had MK1 also and no issues either.

To OP: The thread doesn’t need grease, orings need silicon grease. metal on metal without orings needs lithium grease like common car grease but there aren’t many places in airguns that doesn’t interface with orings somehow.

 

[Long_Gun_Dallas]

Well, I'm telling you I %100 had issues with a MK1 and a 7gm hammer weight. Could be I had more spring tension, IDK. Either way, the damage was done. The guide is only made of plastic. It's easy to damage if valve is over-traveling.

Factory hammer is 16.5gm fwiw. So, mine was 23.5gm when damage occured.

Thanks to each of you for the advice
It is most appreciated.
And seeing the variety of answers one can understand my concern about when to degas and how to dry fire.
Bottles are new to me (as is the Crown)
Is removing the bottle truly a simple matter of unscrewing it?
Anything to lookout for?
Also. it appears to me as if it can be done with the action remaining in the stock?
Reverse & repeat for re-installation?

FWIW
The rifle is absolutely stock

Edward

Should be fine to dry fire, just make sure to turn the hammer wheel to it's lowest setting.

 

[SilentSquirrel]

Decision made!
I will play it safe and do the following:

Increasing regulator pressure
- Simply work upwards in 1/4 turn increments
- Firing pellets vs dry firing to let regulator come to level

Decreasing regulator pressure
- Remove bottle
- Hammer spring to lowest tension
- Dry fire until plenum is empty
- Work in 1/4 turn increments
- Reinstall bottle (no grease)
- Fire with pellets

My last (hopefully) question is:
On the hammer spring wheel is 1 the lowest & 23 the highest? (no letters)

No matter how many years one shoots. he/she remains a newbie to some things

Thanks again, each of you
Edward

 

[18.13]

1 is the lowest but I don't recommend dry firing. I tried it and my pressure gauge went down to 50 so dry fired again. Now I know my gauge only goes down to 50 needless to say the gun was empty not 50 bar so a trip to FX USA
FX told me not to dry fire but to open the reg screw 1/4 turn to let the air out

 

[SilentSquirrel]

1 is the lowest but I don't recommend dry firing. I tried it and my pressure gauge went down to 50 so dry fired again. Now I know my gauge only goes down to 50 needless to say the gun was empty not 50 bar so a trip to FX USA
FX told me not to dry fire but to open the reg screw 1/4 turn to let the air out

Thanks @18.13
Do you mean open the regulator adjustment screw>
Or a different reg screw?
Edward

 

[18.13]

Yes the reg adjustment screw, just turn it counter clock wise 1/4 turn and all the air will leak out no problem. No worries about your valve

It doesn't hurt anything to turn the reg up under pressure just don't turn it down under pressure

 

[qball]

Decision made!
I will play it safe and do the following:

Increasing regulator pressure
- Simply work upwards in 1/4 turn increments
- Firing pellets vs dry firing to let regulator come to level

Decreasing regulator pressure
- Remove bottle
- Hammer spring to lowest tension
- Dry fire until plenum is empty
- Work in 1/4 turn increments
- Reinstall bottle (no grease)
- Fire with pellets

My last (hopefully) question is:
On the hammer spring wheel is 1 the lowest & 23 the highest? (no letters)

No matter how many years one shoots. he/she remains a newbie to some things

Thanks again, each of you
Edward

I just follow FX's instruction and turn the reg adjustment clock wise 1/8 of a turn and dry fire couple of times and repeat the process till desired reg pressure. Lowest hammer spring setting for dry fire isn't necessary so won't worry if it is the lowest or it's 1 or 2, I do that just so I waste less air.

Again this is what I do with my(7x) and my friend's FX guns so YMMV.

 

[Trucker3573]

Do exactly what 18.1 said. Also there is no reason whatsoever to degass when increasing the reg or any pcp reg. I will say when making small adjustments down on the newer amp regs I have done it as the fx manual says. Only turn it a small amount at a time and then take a few shots. I have had no problems but the safest way is to degass when going down.