DAYSTATE T2 COMPRESSOR VS 110V

[Alan_B]

Keeping the Installed Filter Dry

The installed filter can become exhausted just from atmospheric moisture via changes in atmospheric pressure as well as the constant molecular motion of gases. In my case the PMV is closed on the downstream end, but if there is no PMV then a blank plug might be used to block the outlet, and any bleed valve there closed. On the upstream side closing the purge valves should make it fairly well sealed. If not using for awhile putting the filter into the sealed ammo can with the MS supply would probably be worthwhile. After six months Coltri recommends changing the filter regardless of use. I'm hoping to stretch this out a little, but MS is so good at gathering moisture that it is not easy to prevent it.

I'm also collecting and saving the exhausted MS in case I decide later to experiment with reactivation. It is probably not worth doing, but might be interesting to experiment with. In any case it should be collected for proper disposal. I use a properly labelled tennis ball can to collect the MS in. It is easy to pour into from the cartridge after carefully cutting off the top. Keeping it in the expired cartridges would be fine too if you don't want to re-use the empty cartridge tube.

 

[Str8tshooter]

Wow Alan you have made awesome mods, could you link the hour meter you choose thanks.

 

[Alan_B]

The rectangular hour meters seem to be a standard size. The one I purchased back in July isn't rated all that highly, I'm not shure I would get that model again. It is the Searon Quartz hour meter 110-240VAC from Amazon. The enclosure I designed is parametric, easy to change the size of to match the meter. I have been using a vibrational meter so I have not tried the AC meter yet. If I were ordering another one today I'd probably select something with higher ratings. 

 

[Alan_B]

I put the used MS Filter cartridge tube with the "white" indicating stripe into my 3D Printer filament storage, which is a 5 gallon bucket with some large dessicant modules and a Gamma Seal top, and it has turned back to the blue stripe indicating a dry filter. My understanding is that as long as the strip doesn't get wet it should be re-usable. This way I won't need to add indicating beads to the filter cartridge. It is not fully blue yet, but it has definitely changed color from the tan-white it was. The other red parts are a base and a funnel to aid in reloading the cartridge. I don't plan to load it with fresh MS until it is time to use it, in order to keep the MS as fresh as possible.

 

[Str8tshooter]

Nice, thanks for continually sharing your updates!

 

[Guest]

I wanted to circle back regarding the oil sight window. During the initial break-in oil fill I did not exactly measure 330mL of oil and used the dip stick to read the oil level. After the 5 hour break-in period oil change I measured 330mL from beaker pours. The oil position in the sight window now appears like Alan_B's image. Visually the oil level in the sight window is drastically different, however, measured on the same on the dipstick before and after oil change they are the same.

My current theory is the engineers say 330mL and barring near exact measurement you can "overfill" into the sight glass as a dip level indicator for the high line mark. My personal preference forward going will be to measure 330mL and fill, ignoring the sight glass, and using a measured pour coupled with dip stick verification.

Hope this helps!

 

[Alan_B]

I've read your post several times and am not certain what your meaning is. 

Sorry,

 

[Guest]

I was highlighting our discussion here for root cause around oil sight indicator value differences:

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/daystate-t2-compressor-vs-110v/page/2/#post-551550

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/daystate-t2-compressor-vs-110v/page/2/#post-551240

Essentially -- I was spending some thought cycles around the differences in revisions and oil sight level indicators. Having recently done an oil change and measuring ~330mL exactly it reads the same on the dipstick and shows low on the sight window. I was then circling it back to root cause and admitting that I failed to fill to 330mL and instead used the hash mark on the dipstick. The oil fill procedure is highly ambigious so I wanted to clarify.

The intent of my post above was to agree with your statements below:

It was quite low in the sight glass. I corresponded with AoA and they said to use 330 ml of oil. So I drained, measured and refilled, and it is just visible in the sight glass, and just under full on the dipstick.

When the compressor was overfilled it also pumped a little oil back into the inlet filter area. Ray cautioned about running overfull, it does lots of undesirable things.

Essentially I agree with you and the previous statements made.

 

[Alan_B]

Thanks for clarifying that. I thought that's what you meant, the one sentence about the sight window being different is a bit ambiguous to me. The differences in the sight window are puzzling.

Measuring the oil is easier than overfilling and having to remove excess.

 

[rcontrera]

Wow ... the engineering from this group is amazing! I am new here and am going to do my best to answer generic compressor questions. However, please don't ask about the cheap Chinese compressors that have hit the market. My insurance company has let me know that if I get involved with selling, service or even giving advice, they are going to shut me off.

So, here are a couple of answers.

- The little clear tube that runs from the oil filler to the first stage is how that stage gets top lubricated. Basically, the piston sucks some of that oil vapor through the tube. It is a clear tube so you can see when the oil is changing color so that you can judge when it is time to change it.
- A PMV is designed to hold pressure to it's preset before letting it pass. This increases the density of the air passing through the system. While it was mentioned that it is needed on a filter tower, it will also increase the efficiency of a moisture separator as much as 400% as well. And, none of the PMVs on the market under $200 work well at keeping air from seeping back from the hose. In order to stop air from invading your system, you will need a shut off valve and bleeder on your hose.
- To adjust the pressure sensor for the shutdown, unplug the connection (the square plastic block at the end of the cable) and look for a screw head some where on the black plastic ring. Loosen that screw and you should be able to turn the ring. That is the adjustment for the setting. Changing the setting is just a series of pass/fail on your adjustments. If you turn it one way and it is too high, turn it the other way to lower. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CRANK IT! Small adjustments are best.

Hope that helps a bit and I look forward to helping often.



Ray Contreras - Owner - CompressorStuff.com