Hi people. What are the pros and cons in these 2 different compressor... All information would be great.
DAYSTATE T2 COMPRESSOR VS 110V
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The T2 is Daystate's top of the line compressor with a number of premium features. It costs $3295 so you're spending $1,300 more than you would for an LC-110 but here are some features your're getting for the higher price.
T2 Pros:
1. Three times faster fills since the output is three times more than a LC-110. You can fill a 98 cubic foot capacity tank in about 20 minutes from empty.
2. It has a fully adjustable shut off pressure gauge at any pressure you choose.
3. It has a more sophisticated moisture removal system with both a moisture separator tower and a final filter tower that holds replaceable cartridges. It is a true dive compressor that produces breathable air when used with a desiccant cartridge that has an activated charcoal section..
4. It has 4 stages vs. 3 for the LC-110 and runs off of 230 volts at 14 amps.
5. It has a built in hour meter which is convenient for monitoring total runtime and maintenance hours for oil and filter changes.
6. It is made by Coltri which has manufactured and sold dive compressors for over 25 years with a reliable, durable service reputation.
7. Airguns of Arizona sells and services it. They are reachable, helpful, friendly, and knowledgeable. They don't give you the bum's rush when you have a compressor problem or immediately blame you for compressor issues that do happen.
T2 Cons:
1. It costs $1,300 more than an LC-110.
2. It is heavier to move at 95 lbs. The full cage enclosure makes it difficult to reach the drain plug for oil changes. The cage and drain plug location makes oil change spills likely in hard to reach places. The cage is not designed for easily removal. It is a weak point of the T2 design.
3. Unused 230 volt outlets are not found in a typical home setting and require an electrician to add one for most people. The T2 compressor is unwieldy for one person to move around easily due to weight and size of the cage. It is not as easy to find 230 volt outlets at remote locations as it is for a 115 volt compressor like the LC-110.
4. It is much louder when running than an LC-110. It also produces more exhaust fumes than the LC-110 because of the higher rpms and heat it produces.
5. Unless you are an every day tank refiller and time is critical, a T2 is has more capacity than necessary for a single use owner. Its great for clubs and for multiple shared use owners.
Here are some pros and cons of the LC-110 compared to the T2.
LC-110 Pros:
1. Runs on 115 volts which means it is plug and play at home.
2. LC-110 weighs only 79 lbs. and has handles so it's a one man job to move it around when needed.
3. Very quiet running at much lower rpms than the T2. Less fumes, less heat, less exhaust fumes after a fill session. Indoor useable and wife friendly.
4. LC-110 fills a tank at 1.1 cubic feet per minute vs. 3.4 per minute for the T2. It will do a 3K to 4.5K top off of a 98cf tank in less than 40 minutes.
5. It's air cooled so the only periodic maintenance is oil changes and infrequent air intake filter replacements.
6. It costs $1995 which means it is within reach of more potential buyers if resold. Lower inital cost means a larger resale market available compared to a T2. It is also lighter and less costly to ship than the larger, heavier T2.
7. It is a true dive compressor head design by Coltri with a proven marketplace reliability record of over 25 years. It is built to last and is much less stressed and long lasting than any less expensive compressor made in China. This includes Omega compressors, Air Venturi, Hatsan Lightning, Alpha Carette, and especially the economy Yong Heng/Tuxing class of compressors which are built for minimal longevity.
8.Airguns of Arizona sells it and services it. Other than Air Venturi, no other distributer of PCP compressors compares favorably to them in dependably for servicing. I avoid some brands solely because their sellers are incapable and/or annoyed to deal with product servicing after the sale. Some of them price gouge on repair parts for out of warranty compressors or to resale purchasers of compressors they sell.
LC-110 Cons:
1. The LC-110 does not have a high pressure filter cartridge housing that comes standard on the T2. A capable filter housing can be added for less than $100 but does require the owner to purchase additional plumbing and do some installation work to match the moisture removing capability of the T2.
2. It omits the hourmeter that is standard on the T2. A vibration or electrical hour meter can be added inexpensively if one is desired.
3. It fills slower than the T2 at 1/3 the fill rate, but it is still acceptably fast for 99% of PCP single user owners. It is a rocket ship compared to a Shoebox or Altaros booster by comparison.
4. It shuts off at 4500 psi with no downward pressure adjustment capability. However, you can manually shut it down by monitoring it if a lesser fill pressure is required.
5. It requires a dedicated home circuit. With a 15 amp draw at 115 volts, it will trip a 15 amp home breaker if anything else is running on that circuit as the LC-110 approaches full pressure and is at maximum amp draw.
Each individual has their own budget, requirements, and preferences. I have owned six compressors over 15 years including an original FX compressor, Shoebox Max, Shoebox F8, Bauer Utilus, Alpha Carette, and currently the Daystate LC-110. Some of my previous compressors filled faster, some had a few automatic features that the LC-110 omits, but in my opinion the LC-110 is the best bang for the buck compressor for an individual owner there is on the market at this moment. Your requirements may vary. Hope this helps any prospective buyers evaluating these two compressors.
T2 Pros:
1. Three times faster fills since the output is three times more than a LC-110. You can fill a 98 cubic foot capacity tank in about 20 minutes from empty.
2. It has a fully adjustable shut off pressure gauge at any pressure you choose.
3. It has a more sophisticated moisture removal system with both a moisture separator tower and a final filter tower that holds replaceable cartridges. It is a true dive compressor that produces breathable air when used with a desiccant cartridge that has an activated charcoal section..
4. It has 4 stages vs. 3 for the LC-110 and runs off of 230 volts at 14 amps.
5. It has a built in hour meter which is convenient for monitoring total runtime and maintenance hours for oil and filter changes.
6. It is made by Coltri which has manufactured and sold dive compressors for over 25 years with a reliable, durable service reputation.
7. Airguns of Arizona sells and services it. They are reachable, helpful, friendly, and knowledgeable. They don't give you the bum's rush when you have a compressor problem or immediately blame you for compressor issues that do happen.
T2 Cons:
1. It costs $1,300 more than an LC-110.
2. It is heavier to move at 95 lbs. The full cage enclosure makes it difficult to reach the drain plug for oil changes. The cage and drain plug location makes oil change spills likely in hard to reach places. The cage is not designed for easily removal. It is a weak point of the T2 design.
3. Unused 230 volt outlets are not found in a typical home setting and require an electrician to add one for most people. The T2 compressor is unwieldy for one person to move around easily due to weight and size of the cage. It is not as easy to find 230 volt outlets at remote locations as it is for a 115 volt compressor like the LC-110.
4. It is much louder when running than an LC-110. It also produces more exhaust fumes than the LC-110 because of the higher rpms and heat it produces.
5. Unless you are an every day tank refiller and time is critical, a T2 is has more capacity than necessary for a single use owner. Its great for clubs and for multiple shared use owners.
Here are some pros and cons of the LC-110 compared to the T2.
LC-110 Pros:
1. Runs on 115 volts which means it is plug and play at home.
2. LC-110 weighs only 79 lbs. and has handles so it's a one man job to move it around when needed.
3. Very quiet running at much lower rpms than the T2. Less fumes, less heat, less exhaust fumes after a fill session. Indoor useable and wife friendly.
4. LC-110 fills a tank at 1.1 cubic feet per minute vs. 3.4 per minute for the T2. It will do a 3K to 4.5K top off of a 98cf tank in less than 40 minutes.
5. It's air cooled so the only periodic maintenance is oil changes and infrequent air intake filter replacements.
6. It costs $1995 which means it is within reach of more potential buyers if resold. Lower inital cost means a larger resale market available compared to a T2. It is also lighter and less costly to ship than the larger, heavier T2.
7. It is a true dive compressor head design by Coltri with a proven marketplace reliability record of over 25 years. It is built to last and is much less stressed and long lasting than any less expensive compressor made in China. This includes Omega compressors, Air Venturi, Hatsan Lightning, Alpha Carette, and especially the economy Yong Heng/Tuxing class of compressors which are built for minimal longevity.
8.Airguns of Arizona sells it and services it. Other than Air Venturi, no other distributer of PCP compressors compares favorably to them in dependably for servicing. I avoid some brands solely because their sellers are incapable and/or annoyed to deal with product servicing after the sale. Some of them price gouge on repair parts for out of warranty compressors or to resale purchasers of compressors they sell.
LC-110 Cons:
1. The LC-110 does not have a high pressure filter cartridge housing that comes standard on the T2. A capable filter housing can be added for less than $100 but does require the owner to purchase additional plumbing and do some installation work to match the moisture removing capability of the T2.
2. It omits the hourmeter that is standard on the T2. A vibration or electrical hour meter can be added inexpensively if one is desired.
3. It fills slower than the T2 at 1/3 the fill rate, but it is still acceptably fast for 99% of PCP single user owners. It is a rocket ship compared to a Shoebox or Altaros booster by comparison.
4. It shuts off at 4500 psi with no downward pressure adjustment capability. However, you can manually shut it down by monitoring it if a lesser fill pressure is required.
5. It requires a dedicated home circuit. With a 15 amp draw at 115 volts, it will trip a 15 amp home breaker if anything else is running on that circuit as the LC-110 approaches full pressure and is at maximum amp draw.
Each individual has their own budget, requirements, and preferences. I have owned six compressors over 15 years including an original FX compressor, Shoebox Max, Shoebox F8, Bauer Utilus, Alpha Carette, and currently the Daystate LC-110. Some of my previous compressors filled faster, some had a few automatic features that the LC-110 omits, but in my opinion the LC-110 is the best bang for the buck compressor for an individual owner there is on the market at this moment. Your requirements may vary. Hope this helps any prospective buyers evaluating these two compressors.
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Awesome summary Humdinger.. one thing I will say is that the shutoff is actually adjustable according to AoA. They said its not in the manual yet, but that it is a simple adjustment with an allen key to set it where you would want it... definately not as nice as others on the market with adjustments that are visual. Anyway, thats what I was told, but I haven't tried to play with it at all yet.
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Humdinger, Are you sure about this?
"4. The T2 has a Pressure Maintaining Valve (PMV) which makes the moisture removal cartridge more effective when filling tanks from empty."
"4. The T2 has a Pressure Maintaining Valve (PMV) which makes the moisture removal cartridge more effective when filling tanks from empty."
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You are correct. I researched after assuming the Coltri MCH6 and Daystate T2 have PMVs since they a filter tower. Surprisingly, they don't. That would be a negative for me if I was in the market for a $3K compressor. Dive compressors should all have this valve to make their dessicant filters effective when filling tanks from empty.
In a thread about the LC-110s I added a male foster check valve on the input side of the gold filter tower in my system.
https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/the-daystate-lc110-compressor-report/page/4/
It acts as a poor man's priority valve by allowing an owner to open their tank valve before pressure builds in the LC-110. When the compressor pressure exceeds the pressure in the tank being filled the check valve opens with pressurized air in the filter. A male foster with a check valve inside allows a partially filled tank valve to be opened before the compressor builds pressure. PMV's are only a requirement when filling a tank from empty. It is critical for dive compressors more than it is by PCP owners since dive tanks are usually closer to empty when refilled. Thanks for the alert observation. Accuracy point for you.
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I asked because I have a T2 and it does not have the PMV....thought maybe it was missing something. 
. I always let it build pressure before opening the tank valve or like you said the tank already has 2000+ psi so once opened it supplies that pressure.
the T2 is a nice compressor. I already had a 240v outlet for another piece of equipment so that was not a deal breaker or extra add for my case. I think the LC-110 is a great compressor for the dollar. I agree it needs some additional moisture control added to it.
. I always let it build pressure before opening the tank valve or like you said the tank already has 2000+ psi so once opened it supplies that pressure.the T2 is a nice compressor. I already had a 240v outlet for another piece of equipment so that was not a deal breaker or extra add for my case. I think the LC-110 is a great compressor for the dollar. I agree it needs some additional moisture control added to it.
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I selected the LC-110 (from AOA) for 115V, lighter weight and lower cost in a well supported "real scuba type" compressor that is easy to work on and has good availability of parts and service in the US. I decided to replace the genuine Coltri filter tower that Daystate left out and add a PMV to maintain dry air in the output, rather than using a third party filter housing. I also added an hour meter, so I'm creeping back toward the T2 feature set. But I don't want the weight and 220V requirements, so a T2 was not the solution for me. The T2 has the filter tower and the hour meter, but the rest of the improvements I did are not on the T2 as it comes.
I want to stress that there's nothing wrong with a third party filter solution, I just decided to make it close to stock which has some minor advantages. The Coltri filter tower drops right into the existing mounting ring and bolts to the existing slot in the base plate and has its own matching bleed valve just like the existing separator. The formed metal tube in between is factory Coltri and fits perfectly. The air exits the tower on the side without interfering with the removable top that allows access to the filter cartridge, and there's a spring that pushes the cartridge up and out of the tower for easy access. I use the 13x molecular sieve cartridge for drying the air, they have twice the moisture capacity of the scuba type cartridges. The Coltri tower parts, bleed valve, adapters and tubing were about $250 and the cartridges are about $30. I'm working on an easy way to repack the filter cartridges which is about seven times cheaper with sieve material purchased by the pound.
The PMV is the common 211 model at the tower outlet. This feeds the existing fill whip. With the necessary adapters it was about $100. The pressure maintaining valve makes the moisture separator much more effective and extends the life of the filter considerably whenever filling from below 2000 psi.
The hour meter I started with is an internal battery self contained vibration sensing unit from Amazon, under $20. I also have an AC powered unit which requires a housing, so I 3D printed a housing but I have not installed that one yet. I may change to it because it can be read even if the compressor is off, but it does require wiring into the motor power. The vibration sensing type requires pushing a button to read if the compressor is not running.
I also changed from the DIN300 at the end of the whip to a Foster female and added a bleed valve. This is useful for filling small tanks and airguns as well as my SCBA tank. The bleed valve is required because the PMV blocks the standard bleed valves from draining the whip, and the small tanks and airguns don't have a bleed on them. This upgrade was about $75.
I designed and 3d printed a wrench for the filter tower which makes checking the filter indicator and replacing the filter cartridge quick and easy.
I did my first tank topoff yesterday with filtered dry air and it worked well. Now I'm ready to start looking for a big bore.
A big thanks to Coltri dealer Ray Contreras for helping with the details and from whom I purchased most of the parts for this project.
I want to stress that there's nothing wrong with a third party filter solution, I just decided to make it close to stock which has some minor advantages. The Coltri filter tower drops right into the existing mounting ring and bolts to the existing slot in the base plate and has its own matching bleed valve just like the existing separator. The formed metal tube in between is factory Coltri and fits perfectly. The air exits the tower on the side without interfering with the removable top that allows access to the filter cartridge, and there's a spring that pushes the cartridge up and out of the tower for easy access. I use the 13x molecular sieve cartridge for drying the air, they have twice the moisture capacity of the scuba type cartridges. The Coltri tower parts, bleed valve, adapters and tubing were about $250 and the cartridges are about $30. I'm working on an easy way to repack the filter cartridges which is about seven times cheaper with sieve material purchased by the pound.
The PMV is the common 211 model at the tower outlet. This feeds the existing fill whip. With the necessary adapters it was about $100. The pressure maintaining valve makes the moisture separator much more effective and extends the life of the filter considerably whenever filling from below 2000 psi.
The hour meter I started with is an internal battery self contained vibration sensing unit from Amazon, under $20. I also have an AC powered unit which requires a housing, so I 3D printed a housing but I have not installed that one yet. I may change to it because it can be read even if the compressor is off, but it does require wiring into the motor power. The vibration sensing type requires pushing a button to read if the compressor is not running.
I also changed from the DIN300 at the end of the whip to a Foster female and added a bleed valve. This is useful for filling small tanks and airguns as well as my SCBA tank. The bleed valve is required because the PMV blocks the standard bleed valves from draining the whip, and the small tanks and airguns don't have a bleed on them. This upgrade was about $75.
I designed and 3d printed a wrench for the filter tower which makes checking the filter indicator and replacing the filter cartridge quick and easy.
I did my first tank topoff yesterday with filtered dry air and it worked well. Now I'm ready to start looking for a big bore.
A big thanks to Coltri dealer Ray Contreras for helping with the details and from whom I purchased most of the parts for this project.
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After a less than enjoyable experience with a Hatsan Lightning compressor and a lot of additional research, I ordered a Day State LC-110 compressor May 22 this year. My timing was poor since AoA ran out of LC-110's before my order was filled and I didn't receive my compressor until July 19 nearly 2 months later. I've had some problems, but most were shipping related. You could easily tell that in spite of the 4 labels with directional up arrows on the box, compressor had traveled at least part of its journey upside down. The inlet air cleaner was saturated with compressor oil and sitting in a puddle of oil in its holder from sitting upside down. The fan safety cage was bent from being upside down and rested on the air transfer tubing between stages and made a lot of noise due to vibration. I found several loose bolts including 2 second stage head bolts. Once these problems were resolved, the compressor runs much more quietly than it did initially and appears to perform as expected. Thanks to a Humdinger post, I replaced the fill hose DIN connector with a JIC adapter and female Foster quick connect fitting saving that $70 for a bulky DIN / Foster adapter. Thanks Humdinger!! I need to add a final filter for moisture control, but have not decided exactly on how to go. In the meantime, I'm using a final filter like a YoungHeng, only bigger. So far everything has remained bone dry.
The LC-110 is a far, far better machine than the Lightning compressor I was unlucky enough to get entangled with. That was a 3 month over heating and Hatsan Service nightmare I do not want to relive!
Good to hear the cutoff pressure is adjustable. I had suspected as much. Mine presently cuts off at 4300 psi so I'll be calling AoA tomorrow about how to fix that.
Not sure I understand the PMV business, but for the few times I'll be filling anything from 0 psi (need to replace the CGA-347 valve on my 45 min SCBA), if I fill the 45 min from my 60 min SCBA first to 2000+ psi doesn't that accomplish the same thing? Then just top off as normal...
The LC-110 is a far, far better machine than the Lightning compressor I was unlucky enough to get entangled with. That was a 3 month over heating and Hatsan Service nightmare I do not want to relive!
Good to hear the cutoff pressure is adjustable. I had suspected as much. Mine presently cuts off at 4300 psi so I'll be calling AoA tomorrow about how to fix that.
Not sure I understand the PMV business, but for the few times I'll be filling anything from 0 psi (need to replace the CGA-347 valve on my 45 min SCBA), if I fill the 45 min from my 60 min SCBA first to 2000+ psi doesn't that accomplish the same thing? Then just top off as normal...
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The cutoff pressure on my LC-110 does not seem to be adjustable. UPDATE - no adjustment apparent at the sensor end, but it may be a 4-20 mA sensor and the control relay in the main box may be where the adjustment is. Not something to change often, but tunable to compensate for variations in components. I'll have to take a closer look.
It is set at about 4500 according to one of my gauges, and 4600 according to the other. One problem is gauge accuracy. Which gauge do we trust? The sensor has a cable that trips the run/stop relay off (unplugging it does trip the relay). Perhaps there is some way to adjust it, however I think a fixed shutoff at 4500 is a good setup. Anything I would fill to less than 4500 is going to fill very fast and I would rather watch it closely than trust it. Anything too readily adjustable is not as trustworthy as something fixed.
AOA goes to a lot of expense to make a nice heavy box with expensive dense closed cell foam to pack the LC-110, but the compressor is not mounted to a board. So if the shipper does not follow the "this side up" the foam pushes on the machine in various places (like belt or fan safety shrouds), many of which are sheet metal and not really designed for that purpose. Mine also had some minor bending. UPS placed it on the porch on end at delivery, not following the "this side up" labelling. It is a good box and excellent foam, but the compressor should really be mounted to a board by the frame so the forces are carried by the strong part that is designed to take those forces.
AOA tests these compressors and they probably don't spend a lot of time draining them so there will be some oil left. This oil is very tenacious and leaves behind a thick film which doesn't drain quickly. I also found small amounts of oil in the input air filter.
The first HPA compressor I ordered was a ninety degree two cylinder Davv from Amazon. It was not packed well, and came totally trashed. The frame was bent, the gauge was bent, glycerin (presumably) was all over the place, the plumbing tubing was smashed, and there were holes in the box from the compressor's movement inside. Perhaps it was a blessing in disguise because I didn't spend much time with it, just enough to figure out how to return it and get a refund.
It is set at about 4500 according to one of my gauges, and 4600 according to the other. One problem is gauge accuracy. Which gauge do we trust? The sensor has a cable that trips the run/stop relay off (unplugging it does trip the relay). Perhaps there is some way to adjust it, however I think a fixed shutoff at 4500 is a good setup. Anything I would fill to less than 4500 is going to fill very fast and I would rather watch it closely than trust it. Anything too readily adjustable is not as trustworthy as something fixed.
AOA goes to a lot of expense to make a nice heavy box with expensive dense closed cell foam to pack the LC-110, but the compressor is not mounted to a board. So if the shipper does not follow the "this side up" the foam pushes on the machine in various places (like belt or fan safety shrouds), many of which are sheet metal and not really designed for that purpose. Mine also had some minor bending. UPS placed it on the porch on end at delivery, not following the "this side up" labelling. It is a good box and excellent foam, but the compressor should really be mounted to a board by the frame so the forces are carried by the strong part that is designed to take those forces.
AOA tests these compressors and they probably don't spend a lot of time draining them so there will be some oil left. This oil is very tenacious and leaves behind a thick film which doesn't drain quickly. I also found small amounts of oil in the input air filter.
The first HPA compressor I ordered was a ninety degree two cylinder Davv from Amazon. It was not packed well, and came totally trashed. The frame was bent, the gauge was bent, glycerin (presumably) was all over the place, the plumbing tubing was smashed, and there were holes in the box from the compressor's movement inside. Perhaps it was a blessing in disguise because I didn't spend much time with it, just enough to figure out how to return it and get a refund.
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Duster-360 please share your findings on LC-110 pressure adjustability once you get the answer from AofA. If yours is set too low there should be a way to correct it. Your gold filter will fit nicely in the hoop of your compressor with 3 wraps of clear strapping tape around the middle of the filter. I found that a 1.5" PVC pipe connector makes a perfect base for the filter. The PVC has a pipe stop rib in the middle which supports the filter. This pipe connector costs a buck and can be modified with a band saw to open it up to allow the connections to fit undeneath. Here is a photo of an LC-110 with a gold filter and the connections as outlined in the link in one of my previous posts in this thread from 2/5/19. 
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My wife worked in shipping for a major company and had nothing but trouble with shipping related damage to their large, heavy boxes. If you don't make the box damage proof some how, its going to likely wind up damaged. They had some luck going to wooden crates or plastic 55 gal drums but due to time and expense involved reserved shipping that way for their most expensive, important shipments.
I was watching and waiting for UPS when my Lightning compressor was delivered. I watched as the driver pushed it out the rear door letting it fall to the street. It was boxed and then packed in a wooden crate. The drop split the crate and made a hole in the box from where the compressor moved, but otherwise no obvious damage. That compressor over heated seriously from the beginning though, so I wonder if that less than stellar UPS treatment had anything to with the broken off rod dipper that was half the internal lubrication system?
Humdinger, I'll gladly pass whatever I learn from AoA about adjusting the cutoff pressure, but they have yet to return my call from earlier today......
Alan as far as which gauge to trust, the LC-110 manual says the compressor gauge "have a precision of 1.6 (+/-1.6% on the full scale value)". My gauge reads to 7200 psi so the error
is +/- 115.2 psi. At least they provided some info, I haven't had enough time to compare my fill pressure gauges, but my guess is that the compressor gauge is the one I'd tend to trust.
I was watching and waiting for UPS when my Lightning compressor was delivered. I watched as the driver pushed it out the rear door letting it fall to the street. It was boxed and then packed in a wooden crate. The drop split the crate and made a hole in the box from where the compressor moved, but otherwise no obvious damage. That compressor over heated seriously from the beginning though, so I wonder if that less than stellar UPS treatment had anything to with the broken off rod dipper that was half the internal lubrication system?
Humdinger, I'll gladly pass whatever I learn from AoA about adjusting the cutoff pressure, but they have yet to return my call from earlier today......
Alan as far as which gauge to trust, the LC-110 manual says the compressor gauge "have a precision of 1.6 (+/-1.6% on the full scale value)". My gauge reads to 7200 psi so the error
is +/- 115.2 psi. At least they provided some info, I haven't had enough time to compare my fill pressure gauges, but my guess is that the compressor gauge is the one I'd tend to trust.
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I have two "large" gauges, the compressor's and the one on the AirTanksForSale valve on my tank. The compressor's reads 4500 and the tank's reads 4600 when it shuts off electrically, as I recall. So thus far I would suspect that the compressor's is probably more accurate, but I don't have a calibrated reference. One other data point was the tank's gauge read about 4600 when it came back from filling, I would expect that the fire extinguisher service gauge would be fairly accurate, but again that's not really a calibration.
The sensor on the tee sends an electrical signal to the control relay, probably a 4-20 ma type. It has four pins, one is ground and the other three are not labelled that I could see. I looked around at commercial products similar to what's on the compressor and 4-20 ma is what I found most common. So the adjustment would be on the control module. I did test and the control relay will not stay on if the sensor is unplugged, one of the features of 4-20 ma controls is they know when the sensor is unplugged because the current goes to zero which is outside the operational range. I haven't opened up the electronics enclosure to look for an adjustment but that's where it has to be. Mine is set well so I'm not inclined to fiddle with it, but at 4200 I would be. UPDATE - turns out the shutoff sensor is a pressure switch, not an electronic sensor, so just contacts, more details below.
One other thing I want to experiment with is running the compressor from a generator to see how it performs. That would be useful occasionally for field use.
The sensor on the tee sends an electrical signal to the control relay
One other thing I want to experiment with is running the compressor from a generator to see how it performs. That would be useful occasionally for field use.
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Generator Test #1
Started and ran the Daystate LC-110 compressor from a Honda EU3000 generator today. This is one advantage of the LC-110 vs the T2. With the T2 a 230V generator would be required which is not something that is common here in the US.
I haven't run the EU3000 in a long time, and it started on the third pull. Honda engines are amazing. And that's with standard gasoline (with ethanol). It does have a fuel shutoff so the carburetor can be run dry. Of course the electric starting battery is dead, but the pull cord with automatic compression release makes it easier to start than an EU2000.
Since the compressor's starting surge is the primary concern, not the max running current, I didn't build pressure. This generator can handle much more than 15 amps at 120V so I don't expect that to be a problem.
Later I will test it with the EU2000's but they are in storage so not convenient to do right now. I can test with a single and two ganged together. With a pair of EU2000's paralleled there's little question, that's more power than the single EU3000. The real question is will a single EU2000 do the job. I'm doubtful that will be enough. If it is enough here at low altitude it still may not be enough at higher altitudes where the power drops off. I'll give it a test at some point. It might be useful to take the compressor when we go camping in the mountains and have a wonderful opportunity to shoot.
Started and ran the Daystate LC-110 compressor from a Honda EU3000 generator today. This is one advantage of the LC-110 vs the T2. With the T2 a 230V generator would be required which is not something that is common here in the US.
I haven't run the EU3000 in a long time, and it started on the third pull. Honda engines are amazing. And that's with standard gasoline (with ethanol). It does have a fuel shutoff so the carburetor can be run dry. Of course the electric starting battery is dead, but the pull cord with automatic compression release makes it easier to start than an EU2000.
Since the compressor's starting surge is the primary concern, not the max running current, I didn't build pressure. This generator can handle much more than 15 amps at 120V so I don't expect that to be a problem.
Later I will test it with the EU2000's but they are in storage so not convenient to do right now. I can test with a single and two ganged together. With a pair of EU2000's paralleled there's little question, that's more power than the single EU3000. The real question is will a single EU2000 do the job. I'm doubtful that will be enough. If it is enough here at low altitude it still may not be enough at higher altitudes where the power drops off. I'll give it a test at some point. It might be useful to take the compressor when we go camping in the mountains and have a wonderful opportunity to shoot.
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Daystate LC-110 with Coltri Filter Tower, 211 PMV, Foster with Bleeder on Fill Whip and Hour Meter. Takes standard MCH6 (SC000340) type filter cartridges (available from multiple sources), spring loaded to provide easy access. Removing the filter tower cap is unhindered by plumbing, and there's a standard purge valve in the base of the tower just like the water separator.
I designed and 3D printed some wrenches for the Filter Tower, Oil Vent and Oil Drain. In particular the Filter Tower wrench is handy and more convenient than a huge standard wrench large enough to fit the tower cap. The blue stripe on the cartridge needs to be checked periodically, when it is no longer blue it is time for a new one!
This is essentially a scuba compressor with a smaller motor (though it is not rated for breathable air by Daystate, and we are not using breathing air type cartridges).
I'm working on a simple way to refill the cartridges using some 3D printed parts to extend cartridge life that is not completed yet.
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Auto Shutoff Adjustability
I took a look into the control box on my LC-110 this morning. There is no pressure shutoff adjustment there.
Note - there are hazardous voltages in this box and capacitors that can store dangerous energy. Don't go in there unless you take proper safety precautions.
There are very few components inside the housing (but there are a lot of wires). There are the two motor capacitors. There are a pair of connection blocks, each with an open terminal, perhaps where the hour meter can be connected (I did not verify this). There is the power control switch/relay, a KJD17B. If you search for the part number lots of info can be found. This unit incorporates the stop/start buttons and control relay, the input from the auto-shutdown unit, and controls the up to 16 amps to power the motor. It also has under and over voltage shutdown as well as power loss shutdown built in. Very nice unit, and a fairly expensive part.
The control circuit is 120V so the signal from the pressure sensor must be 120V, and any adjustment would have to be internal to the sensor, which is screwed into the tee just below the gauge on top of the oil/water separator (it is visible in the photo of my compressor in the previous posting). There are three conductors in the cable from the sensor to the control box. One is ground. One goes to the control input on the power control switch/relay, the other goes into the motor via a small white wire (which may be from the internal RPM sensing motor run switch). The sensor must be normally closed, as unplugging it causes the motor to stop as soon as the run button is released. The power control relay won't latch in.
I see no signs of adjustments on the sensor itself. The adjustable sensor is a different unit (Humdinger found a video on installing it), It is larger and has a cap covering an adjuster as well as a lock screw to keep vibration from changing the setting.
Take Care and Be Safe.
I took a look into the control box on my LC-110 this morning. There is no pressure shutoff adjustment there.
Note - there are hazardous voltages in this box and capacitors that can store dangerous energy. Don't go in there unless you take proper safety precautions.
There are very few components inside the housing (but there are a lot of wires). There are the two motor capacitors. There are a pair of connection blocks, each with an open terminal, perhaps where the hour meter can be connected (I did not verify this). There is the power control switch/relay, a KJD17B. If you search for the part number lots of info can be found. This unit incorporates the stop/start buttons and control relay, the input from the auto-shutdown unit, and controls the up to 16 amps to power the motor. It also has under and over voltage shutdown as well as power loss shutdown built in. Very nice unit, and a fairly expensive part.
The control circuit is 120V so the signal from the pressure sensor must be 120V, and any adjustment would have to be internal to the sensor, which is screwed into the tee just below the gauge on top of the oil/water separator (it is visible in the photo of my compressor in the previous posting). There are three conductors in the cable from the sensor to the control box. One is ground. One goes to the control input on the power control switch/relay, the other goes into the motor via a small white wire (which may be from the internal RPM sensing motor run switch). The sensor must be normally closed, as unplugging it causes the motor to stop as soon as the run button is released. The power control relay won't latch in.
I see no signs of adjustments on the sensor itself. The adjustable sensor is a different unit (Humdinger found a video on installing it), It is larger and has a cap covering an adjuster as well as a lock screw to keep vibration from changing the setting.
Take Care and Be Safe.
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I've not been inside the box but speculate that perhaps they're a start and run capacitor for the electric motor? Looks like the resistor bridge is sacrifical in the event the start capacitor fails (black)? Looks like a four pole run capacitor in the other (white)?
I'm pretty sure the 4 pole pressure shut-off switch on the condensate tower is electro-mechanical and acts more like a pressure switch than an adjustable variable resistor. Mine will spring rattle during the compression cycle as it nears shut-off pressure.
I'm pretty sure the 4 pole pressure shut-off switch on the condensate tower is electro-mechanical and acts more like a pressure switch than an adjustable variable resistor. Mine will spring rattle during the compression cycle as it nears shut-off pressure.
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Is your breather tube full of oil or just a weird camera effect? If the former any ideas why? If the latter then apologies for the stupid ask.
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Laptop crashed and took my nice long posting with it...
The breather tube did have oil bubbles in it early on. Haven't had seen more lately, it is just air.
I agree - start and run capacitors and the pressure cutoff is a switch. Nuvair sells similar units from Nason. I don't see a brand or model on the one here, and no sign of adjustments when installed. Perhaps there is something coaxial inside the air inlet? I'm not inclined to remove it to have a look.
The breather tube did have oil bubbles in it early on. Haven't had seen more lately, it is just air.
I agree - start and run capacitors and the pressure cutoff is a switch. Nuvair sells similar units from Nason. I don't see a brand or model on the one here, and no sign of adjustments when installed. Perhaps there is something coaxial inside the air inlet? I'm not inclined to remove it to have a look.
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![standard.jpg](http://[url="http://www.fototime.com/4DF6556B165587A/standard.jpg"][img]http://www.fototime.com/4DF6556B165587A/standard.jpg)
I mentioned some pricing a few posts back for the different upgrades.
LC-110 Compressor 2k, upgrades around $400 and supplies like filters, oil and molecular sieve about $150. I have enough oil for the initial fill and five changes, two filters and material to repack about six filters. The filters should be good for six months to a year each, depending on the temperature and quantity of pumping. Going by AoA's recommended 20 hour oil change and pumping at 70F with a 30F temperature rise the cartridge will need to be replaced at about the same time (19 hours) and will have pumped 34000 liters of air. That's about 17 fills from empty with a 72 CF SCBA tank, or 50 topoffs from 3000-4500. The topoffs will actually use even less filter capacity due to the high output pressure, but the oil will be due.
LC-110 Compressor 2k, upgrades around $400 and supplies like filters, oil and molecular sieve about $150. I have enough oil for the initial fill and five changes, two filters and material to repack about six filters. The filters should be good for six months to a year each, depending on the temperature and quantity of pumping. Going by AoA's recommended 20 hour oil change and pumping at 70F with a 30F temperature rise the cartridge will need to be replaced at about the same time (19 hours) and will have pumped 34000 liters of air. That's about 17 fills from empty with a 72 CF SCBA tank, or 50 topoffs from 3000-4500. The topoffs will actually use even less filter capacity due to the high output pressure, but the oil will be due.
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