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Daystate Red Wolf Acting Sick

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No popping sound occurred, so I never expected the breech seal. There was a pinging sound inside the gun which was distinctive. The ping did get louder as time went on, but the gun was still shooting at expected velocity and was very accurate, until the fps drop.

As stated, I recharged the battery even though the low battery light never came on. It was too late at that point to shoot the gun, (to test the battery) but when I would program a power level or magazine count on/off the familiar thumping/vibration sound the gun makes to indicate successful program setting did not occur. The display would correctly show the change in power level at all settings and the magazine being turned on or off.

I will test it today with the recharged battery just in case, but I doubt that it will make a difference.

Thanks again, I'll keep you informed of the status as I proceed.
 
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Sounds to me like your battery wire might be flaky. Turn it on, make sure display is on, open battery port, and lightly tug or move battery connector wire. If the display flickers, one of the wires on the white connector have broken or have a bad solder joint. If it turns out to be that, hopefully you can resolder it or find someone who can. Not difficult if you have the stuff to do it.

Anything opening the side cover with the "void if removed" stickers could potentially void your warranty and you will definitely have to open that cover to install a Heliboard. I've actually not seen anything break or wear with 50k or so HIGH powered shots through one of mine and at least 20k and 10 k through the other two, so for me, the Heliboard voiding the warranty is a non issue .

Bob
 
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Let me interject here, they safety switch can absolutely cause erratic velocity fluctuations, you need to check this pull the action out of stock first, then look directly below safety switch you will see two very small Allen head screws On Both sides of the action now make sure these are Tight, I actually had one shear off! the reason this effects velocity is there is a actuating rod Connected to the safety switch That that operates a very crude micro switch that opens or closes to allow battery power to the board, if those screws are loose it can effect this micro-switch causing these velocity fluctuations! (Note: to see all this you must take the plastic cover of the board you will see and all this and it will make sense)
 
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Click to expand...

Let me interject here, they safety switch can absolutely cause erratic velocity fluctuations, you need to check this pull the action out of stock first, then look directly below safety switch you will see two very small Allen head screws On Both sides of the action now make sure these are Tight, I actually had one shear off! the reason this effects velocity is there is a actuating rod Connected to the safety switch That that operates a very crude micro switch that opens or closes to allow battery power to the board, if those screws are loose it can effect this micro-switch causing these velocity fluctuations! (Note: to see all this you must take the plastic cover of the board you will see and all this and it will make sense)
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I've experienced diminshed velocity at each power setting I removed action, removed the plastic housing (surrounding the electronics) and am looking right under the on/off switch of the Redwolf. There are two holes on each side but I dont believe there is an allen screw in there. Can you provide a bit more of a clue as to where these allen screws are? I'm looking behind/around the trigger. Also I see that the on/off switch connects to a metal post that actuates and very small electronic switch. I still dont see any allen head screws. There are two flat head screws holding that electronic switch in place. Thank you
 
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Here you go!, one on either side of action just make sure both Allen screws Are there and snugged up!, this was the issue with my Red .22hp
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My Red Wolfe Safari had been acting up lately and I pulled the stock and checked the screws that nomojo65 pictured and they were both loose. Tightened them and the gun had started shooting a lot better again thanks for the information! Now I have another question I only use the single shot try and have noticed that there is a quite a bit of air coming out from under the tray! I know that some air is bled off to operate the pin that makes the magazine advance but just how much is needed? I can hold my hand up the bottom of the single shot tray and feel a pretty good blast. ON Low Power some air, Mid Power I can feel more and High Power quite a bit more.

RB
 
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That tiny index actuator pin o-ring may be squashed or worn by all that blown air. A little puff is ok but the dealer may send you replacement parts under warranty by just describing the problem. Get at least 2 extra screws in case you strip yours since they are real buggers to get out use the proper size! I would ask for extra o-rings for breech seal too maybe they throw in some who knows?

If you want a permanent fix then ask for the new conversion and only use the updated DOUBLE FEED LOADABLE!!! magazines or just single load.
 
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I agree with Odoyle. Check the index pin and o-ring. I have an extra index pin o-ring if you need one. Yes, the screws/plate can be a bugger to remove so use a new hex wrench and DO NOT STRIP them.



Odoyle. I was told by both AOA and over at the Daystate forum (by Simon), that the index pin is the same for both the older and new magazines. I requested one of each and they told me there is no difference. However, I had also read in the forum that the newer magazines require an update pin.
 
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nomojo65. That is precisely what I gathered, but when I called AOA they indicated there is no difference. Also, on the Daystate forum, a Daystate representative indicated that there is only one type of pin!



I have several of the old style magazines and wanted to try the new style along with the CARM. I think the impact of the pin on the magazine has an affect on the accuracy more so than the loading of the pellet from the magazine. That impact happens while the pellet is in the barrel. I've manually loaded a pellet, the put the magazine in and shot and I get the MOST accuracy with no magazine in the breech that the index pin can hit (so SS tray is always best). I've not tried the CARM or new non indexing magazines.

JT
 
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They should do a retrofit plate to block that pin and seal it since its of no use and does nothing to actuate the next round from the NEW STYLE 11 shot wind up OEM Daystate magazine and the CARM 9 shot.

The CARM magazines do not rely on the pin popping up either. It's last shot is blocked off so you know when your magazines empty.

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How did I get those Brocock Magazine mixed up with these? They are the same size!

Sorry about the BROCOCK magazines the ones without the pin and magnet and center channel channel trench that rides into the breech.


 
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I agree with Odoyle. Check the index pin and o-ring. I have an extra index pin o-ring if you need one. Yes, the screws/plate can be a bugger to remove so use a new hex wrench and DO NOT STRIP them.



Odoyle. I was told by both AOA and over at the Daystate forum (by Simon), that the index pin is the same for both the older and new magazines. I requested one of each and they told me there is no difference. However, I had also read in the forum that the newer magazines require an update pin.
Click to expand...

Simon STILL THERE? 
 
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Man you got a lot of magazines. I want to try the CARM magazine and Rowan SS loader but the bell of my scope is set just over the magazine and the clearance is very very tight. I guess i could get higher mounts, but I mostly shoot at 25 yards and dont need ultra high mounts.

I've been trying to source the older type Daystate .177 10 shot magazines with metal body (not composite). They just dont seem to be available anymore..... I was going to try the new style but the info on the index pin has not been addressed to my satisfaction (some saying you need a new pin, and other saying not). I just dont want to plop down a few hundred for new magazines and not be able to use them.




 
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I agree with Odoyle. Check the index pin and o-ring. I have an extra index pin o-ring if you need one. Yes, the screws/plate can be a bugger to remove so use a new hex wrench and DO NOT STRIP them.



Odoyle. I was told by both AOA and over at the Daystate forum (by Simon), that the index pin is the same for both the older and new magazines. I requested one of each and they told me there is no difference. However, I had also read in the forum that the newer magazines require an update pin.
Click to expand...

I'm guessing a shorter pin so it doesn't do a butt phuck and ream a nice hole at the bottom of the new magazine.
 
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