DAYSTATE ??? (COLTRI) COMPRESSOR

The threads on the intake filter are not there to connect an air dryer or pressure booster. A booster would damage the compressor and a pre dryer is reddundant. Faggedaboudit. There is no need to boost the air pressure and it would be totally impractical to attempt to pre-dry the air just to avoid using the manual moisture drain. Compressing the air squeezes the moisture out with pressure and collects it on the inside of the compressor's mositure separato tower. The air intake filter is only there to catch particulates from entering the compressor, just like an air filter on an automobile. The compressor works pefectly as is. Don't overthink it or complicate things with add ons that won't help and won't work.

The threads are there for a reason, do you know what it is? I shoot with helium and need a way to introduce the helium into the compressor at the 3.8cfm output rate, no need to pre pressurize if it would do damage. You also are totally discounting the desire not to have to bleed every 10-15 minutes, which in my opinion, would be an inconvenience. A pre dryer would allow that when using air.
 
The carbon molecular sieve PN SC000340; Lawrence Factor X152412; I generally order 2 or more at a time to save on shipping. You can purchase these anywhere you want, but I have been getting my air filters from FILTERTECHS.COM for many years. I have had my air tested using these filters for many years on two commercial diving compressors and never had a problem maintaining Grade E breathing air. Now with that said I want to point out that Coltri/daystate only claim their compressor/air filtration to meet Grade D. Very good air, and great for airgunning, so no worries. Keep in mind the schedule for replacing this cartridge (carbon molecular sieve) is time/humidity sensitive and not related to your oil change schedule. Check your manual for the exact levels and recommended replacement schedule. Page 60. In all honesty, my Daystate did not come with the filter. If you didn't put it in when you first got your compressor, I would highly recommend you open the cylinder tower and check to make sure yours in in place. Won't hurt anything to open it. Make sure you have all the air pressure drained first. LF filters come with a moisture strip indicator on the filter cartridge, I'm not sure if the coltri PN has one or not, like I said they shipped mine without one. Below is the Lawrence Factor replacement schedule for the filters if your interested. https://www.filtertechs.com/faq


FunGunClub, I am looking at getting the Daystate 110V and am wondering if that version uses the same X152412 filter that you mentioned here? Is that the only filter needed to get dry air for this compressor? I was also looking at the Alpha Carette but think I would have to add the Alpha filter for it to work. With that added cost I am close to the Daystate 110 assuming I don't need any additional filter. I was hoping you could verify this. Thanks for the help.

Speedstar, the Daystate LC110 costs $1000 less than FunGun's compressor and does not have a filter tower so the answer to your question is no. Many LC110 owners rely on the water separator drain to remove moisture. It removes 99% of the moisture from compressed air. However, many owners such @Centercut and me add a moisture filter such as the Tuxing gold filter to remove the remaining 1%. If you examine the LC110 you will see a metal loop between the compressor head and the cooling fan. This is where the higher priced Daystate and Coltri compressors have them mounted. Here is a link to a thread that discusses the LC110's. https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/the-daystate-lc110-compressor-report/ Toward the end of the thread I post how to add a filter to an LC110. You can add any brand moisture filter, including a Coltri brand or a Joe B. Alpha to use the cartridge you asked about. I like the Tuxing because it is repackable and affordable at around $82 including a reusable filter cartridge. The reason the LC110 is cheaper than the 220V models like FunGun owns is a slower filling speed and it doesn’t have a filter tower. It is still a great buy and perfect for the individual user.
 
The threads on the intake filter are not there to connect an air dryer or pressure booster. A booster would damage the compressor and a pre dryer is reddundant. Faggedaboudit. There is no need to boost the air pressure and it would be totally impractical to attempt to pre-dry the air just to avoid using the manual moisture drain. Compressing the air squeezes the moisture out with pressure and collects it on the inside of the compressor's mositure separato tower. The air intake filter is only there to catch particulates from entering the compressor, just like an air filter on an automobile. The compressor works pefectly as is. Don't overthink it or complicate things with add ons that won't help and won't work.

The threads are there for a reason, do you know what it is? I shoot with helium and need a way to introduce the helium into the compressor at the 3.8cfm output rate, no need to pre pressurize if it would do damage. You also are totally discounting the desire not to have to bleed every 10-15 minutes, which in my opinion, would be an inconvenience. A pre dryer would allow that when using air.

Some Coltri compressors have gasoline engines instead of electric motors. The filter hole thread is for gas powered Coltris to add an extension tube accessory several feet away from the compressor so it won't be sucking in exhaust smoke and fumes into the air intake. They just put the same threaded air filters on both models. I don't know the moisture properties of helium, but I know nitrogen holds no mositure. If helium is a dry gas your issue is nonexistent. If not, I doubt you could buy a filter setup to dry it that would make it work effectively and fit the compressor. Purging the moisture manually once every 15 minutes is not a big deal. If it is that important to you Coltri offers an automatic moisture drain as an accessory, or you could buy the Alpha Carette compressor that has an auto moisture drain feature included.
 
You are correct about no need when using helium, my inquiry about the pre dryer was only for when air was being used. So I could attach a fitting to feed the helium at a flow rate greater than the 1.1cfm listed for the 110v but less than a pressure that would negatively effect the first stage cylinder. Or if using air and conditions were very humid I could run pre dried air and not have to worry about bleeding if I had a long fill. Pre dried air could also extend the life of the filter element or perhaps the sieve that was mentioned. The post dryer that you added for air use is also I good idea. When only removing the last 1% maintenance would be minimal.