DAYSTATE ??? (COLTRI) COMPRESSOR

Coltri compressors have a very good reputation in the High Pressure Air community, in particular the Scuba Diving Industry. They have been known for years to make a nice single user style of compressor. In other words the companies like Mako, Bauer, and a couple of other big names typically made compressors for high volume, high pressure needs such as industrial applications and of course the dive industry. Coltri has become known more for the smaller application niche of compressors. Yes they make some bigger compressors, but they are known for their portable compressors that could be moved from boat to boat, shore location to shore location. I have seen a coltri portable that was made over 20 years ago and is still running today. For our uses as airgunners, I don't think you can go wrong, we have US and worldwide support, so I am not concerned about them going out of business or not being able to get parts if the time comes. The company home base is in Italy. There is a support office in Coral Springs Florida (divers Mecca). I have one of the Daystate MK2 models and just love it. I don't have that many hours on it. It's hard to get many hours running when it can fill a 100cuft SCBA tank from 230bar (3335psi) to 315bar (4568psi) in less than 5.5minutes. There are lots of Coltri videos for repair, maintenance etc on youtube as well. Great little compressor.
 
There are several on MCH-6 oil changes. The problem we have as owners of Type 2 units is the cage is in the way. You can either remove the cage, fasteners are on the bottom. Or we can cut a small hole in the expanded metal so as to be able to get an extension drive socket to reach the drain plug. Here is a video on the MCH-6 with the old cage, but everything else is the same. Don't forget to remove the breather tube plug, they show it in the video. Hope this helps. This link has several general videos about the coltri. 

 
Lots of great information here by owners - thanks!

Do people run these for a few mins every few weeks, even if its not needed to top off a tank? How long do you run the compressor for? Do you run under load, to build up pressure in the filter cartridge, and then occasionally crack the valves on the separators to allow it to keep running under load, or run it with the valves open? I'm doing the former, but have not run it for couple of weeks, and probably need to adopt a fixed schedule. I'm assuming its bad to let it sit without running it routinely (owners manual says something about this).
 
Regal_US--I have been running mine every couple of weeks. I generally have a few steel 100 cuft tanks to top off and usually have my CF scba tank to top off at 4500, so I am getting 15 to 20 minutes of run time every time I run it. I keep a running total of beginning psg and ending pressures and fill time, on all the tanks that I fill as well as the overall compressor run time so that I have not only the built in timer but I am keeping a paper record of cumulative run-time so that I can keep up on the timed maintenance schedule, as well as just for my own entertainment as I watch the yellow fan spin around...lol. 

I start it without any load, as the manual suggest, by opening the two drain valves, then after it gets up and running I close those and depending on what the pressure is in the tank I'm filling I will open the tank to accept a higher pressure from the compressor than what is in the tank. This way I don't have to worry about back driving the compressor.

I would suggest to keep it running on some schedule and a mix of loaded an unloaded conditions would be good. You just want to keep everything lubed internally. Since these systems use a splash oiler system to keep the internals lubricated, I would agree with an occasional running to keep it well lubricated. In my opinion I would suggest shooting more and more as necessary so you have a good excuse to keep the compressor well exercised! lol. Besides it helps the sponsors on AGN to sell more LEAD! Enjoy the process!
 
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"drid"Thanx for the replys !!! I have 3 hours and 30mins on my clock on my daystate compressor. So wat do you suggest I do and when guys. Thanx again
I have the same time on my compressor, got it in the begining of January 2017. The oil is clean and at the same level as when i filled it.

The fiter is bone dry, the air filter is clean, i'd have to refer you to the manual which is in my garage, but i don't think it needs any other maintenance yet.

My plan, unless the book says something else, is to change the oil, filter, and air filter at a year of operation. Three and half hours, probably means i'll have 6 hours on the meter in a year.
 
The carbon molecular sieve PN SC000340; Lawrence Factor X152412; I generally order 2 or more at a time to save on shipping. You can purchase these anywhere you want, but I have been getting my air filters from FILTERTECHS.COM for many years. I have had my air tested using these filters for many years on two commercial diving compressors and never had a problem maintaining Grade E breathing air. Now with that said I want to point out that Coltri/daystate only claim their compressor/air filtration to meet Grade D. Very good air, and great for airgunning, so no worries.

Keep in mind the schedule for replacing this cartridge (carbon molecular sieve) is time/humidity sensitive and not related to your oil change schedule. Check your manual for the exact levels and recommended replacement schedule. Page 60.

In all honesty, my Daystate did not come with the filter. If you didn't put it in when you first got your compressor, I would highly recommend you open the cylinder tower and check to make sure yours in in place. Won't hurt anything to open it. Make sure you have all the air pressure drained first. LF filters come with a moisture strip indicator on the filter cartridge, I'm not sure if the coltri PN has one or not, like I said they shipped mine without one.



Below is the Lawrence Factor replacement schedule for the filters if your interested.
https://www.filtertechs.com/faq
 
The air filter, filters air coming into the compressor, and the carbon molecular sieve filter to keep the compressed air dry.

My compressor came with one carbon molecular filter, inserted by me at the time of setup, provides dry air for tank and gun, and an extra air filter for the compressor engine, like your air filter on your car.
 
Fungun: Thanks for the information about the Lawrence Factor filter. Its a step up from what came with my compressor: the Coltri cartridge does not have an indicator strip. I'll be going with Lawrence Factor when its time to change. 

When my compressor was shipped from AOA, the molecular sieve filter was not installed. It came in a vacuum sealed bag with an expiration date stamped on the bag. I forgot about the paper cartridge inlet filter, so yes there are two. My guess is that because I'm running the compressor in my air conditioned basement, which is pretty clean, the inlet filter is going to last for a long time.
 
I have a question about the air filters on the Daystate units. On the pictures I have found, it looks like there are threads on the side of the filter where I assume the actual intake air enters. Does the manual state what these threads are for? I would also assume that they could be used to pre-dry intake air with an in-line air dryer used on an auto mechanics style compressor they would use to protect their impact tools. This would remove the majority of moisture from the intake air and would potentially make it possible to only need to bleed moisture from the Daystate compressor after the fill is complete. This could also be pressurized from a low pressure supply compressor that might also improve performance. A quick disconnect could be installed on the air filter to supply the pre-dried air when needed. For instance, in the summers where I live the air gets very humid, but in the winter below freezing it is gong to be much dryer and may not be needed. if it could allow you to fill your tanks without the need to bleed every 10-15 minutes I would think it would be a desirable option. Any thoughts on this line of thinking? 
 
The carbon molecular sieve PN SC000340; Lawrence Factor X152412; I generally order 2 or more at a time to save on shipping. You can purchase these anywhere you want, but I have been getting my air filters from FILTERTECHS.COM for many years. I have had my air tested using these filters for many years on two commercial diving compressors and never had a problem maintaining Grade E breathing air. Now with that said I want to point out that Coltri/daystate only claim their compressor/air filtration to meet Grade D. Very good air, and great for airgunning, so no worries. Keep in mind the schedule for replacing this cartridge (carbon molecular sieve) is time/humidity sensitive and not related to your oil change schedule. Check your manual for the exact levels and recommended replacement schedule. Page 60. In all honesty, my Daystate did not come with the filter. If you didn't put it in when you first got your compressor, I would highly recommend you open the cylinder tower and check to make sure yours in in place. Won't hurt anything to open it. Make sure you have all the air pressure drained first. LF filters come with a moisture strip indicator on the filter cartridge, I'm not sure if the coltri PN has one or not, like I said they shipped mine without one. Below is the Lawrence Factor replacement schedule for the filters if your interested. https://www.filtertechs.com/faq


FunGunClub, I am looking at getting the Daystate 110V and am wondering if that version uses the same X152412 filter that you mentioned here? Is that the only filter needed to get dry air for this compressor? I was also looking at the Alpha Carette but think I would have to add the Alpha filter for it to work. With that added cost I am close to the Daystate 110 assuming I don't need any additional filter. I was hoping you could verify this. Thanks for the help.
 
I have a question about the air filters on the Daystate units. On the pictures I have found, it looks like there are threads on the side of the filter where I assume the actual intake air enters. Does the manual state what these threads are for? I would also assume that they could be used to pre-dry intake air with an in-line air dryer used on an auto mechanics style compressor they would use to protect their impact tools. This would remove the majority of moisture from the intake air and would potentially make it possible to only need to bleed moisture from the Daystate compressor after the fill is complete. This could also be pressurized from a low pressure supply compressor that might also improve performance. A quick disconnect could be installed on the air filter to supply the pre-dried air when needed. For instance, in the summers where I live the air gets very humid, but in the winter below freezing it is gong to be much dryer and may not be needed. if it could allow you to fill your tanks without the need to bleed every 10-15 minutes I would think it would be a desirable option. Any thoughts on this line of thinking?

The threads on the intake filter are not there to connect an air dryer or pressure booster. A booster would damage the compressor and a pre dryer is redundant. Forget about it. There is no need to boost the air pressure and it would be totally impractical to attempt to pre-dry the air just to avoid using the compressor's totally effective moisture separator tower. Compressing air squeezes the moisture out by pressure then coalesces it on the inside of the compressor's mositure separator tower. The air intake filter is only there to prevent particulates from entering the compressor, just like an air filter on an automobile. The compressor works pefectly as is. Don't overthink it or complicate it with add ons that aren't necessary and won't work. A dive compressor isn't like a Shoebox booster that omits these features.