Daystate Daystate Alpha/Delta Wolf groups, tunes and photos.

Each of the settings like the last speed, and additional speed data calculated by the rifle will be stored under the projectile name Like example ZAN 13.
If I know Zan 13 shoots well at like 940 fps it will if not shot by close to weight slugs like Nielsen 12.5 grain slugs, since it will add data that does not fit Zan to the data set.
Not sure if i understand you correctly. But, if you make a new profile in factory mode and you added the desired speed for that projectile, the computer with the chrono will calculate the desired setting do achieve the entered speed. When the speed is achieved the computer 'knows that/get a signal' and shuts off the chrono and save the setting. So if you than use a lighter projectile in that same setting, the speed will be higher cause of the weight difference. The computer and chrono will not automatically change the speed of the projectile unless you tell them to. Is that correct?
 
Not sure if i understand you correctly. But, if you make a new profile in factory mode and you added the desired speed for that projectile, the computer with the chrono will calculate the desired setting do achieve the entered speed. When the speed is achieved the computer 'knows that/get a signal' and shuts off the chrono and save the setting. So if you than use a lighter projectile in that same setting, the speed will be higher cause of the weight difference. The computer and chrono will not automatically change the speed of the projectile unless you tell them to. Is that correct?
Hmmmm .... Yes and no and hhhmmm.
When you make your own custom pellet og slug setting like as an example Zan 20 gr slugs.
You need to prepare to get three minimum 3 slug speeds. This is the maximum speed you can shoot them. The lowest interesting speed you will shoot the slug and minimum one speed in the middle of the minimum or maximum.

1. I set the required Pressure - (In my DW without the ultrafire valve I will need 195 bar to get even close to the max. speed)
2. Then i in advanced mode test shoot and find a Dwell time (or pulse value) together with voltage to get the maximum speed i can get.
Write down the achieved Speed - Pulse and Voltage.

Then I figure there is probably no idea in testing lower as 750 fps with 20 gr slugs.

3 I test shoot again in advance and find a Pulse / Voltage combination that is close to 750 fps.
Write all numbers down.

4 I test shoot the to find 3 to 10 speeds in between the min and maximum speeds.
For all these speeds I write down the Pulse / voltage.

5 Then I connect the rifle to the Daystate programmer and load the current settings.
Go to the factory Tab and under caliber i select .177 and 23" barrel.
Then I add now a new setting called "ZAN 20 gr."

6 I now select insert rows - I choose as example 10 rows. (The minimum for the automatic to work are 3 rows)

7 In these rows - I enter the data I collected from the test shooting starting by the Maximum speed at the top.
You can always delete. add rows before and after a row.

8 You will have to enter Actual pressure (The pressure you used when test shooting) also Optimal pressure and minimum pressure. Minimum pressure i guess is where the pressure is too low to reach the speed so it is more testing or a guess.
Optimal pressure is like for a mechanical rifle the the pressure for a speed where you balance accuracy and air consumption. like a little above the lowest pressure where you can get the wanted speed.

9 When all these informations are entered you can save your new setting to the rifle by pressing write,

Save your new rifle setting as a file with a revision note.

10 now you can take you rifle to the shooting range and start shooting with the Zan 20 gr. settings in factory mode.
Chose any speed within your minimum and maximum tested speed like 880 fps. Shoot 3 to 4 shots and its a "home run"
Now if you chose any speed you did not test in your chart like 770 fps, the rifle will calculate and guess the settings based on the closest lower and higher speed.
When it shoots it corrects itself until another "home run" :)
When you continue to shoot more and it shoots 4 shots with a maximum variation of +/- 4 fps - It will add a line in your table with the reached settings.
The new added line in your settings will look like the ones you made from scratch with Pressure, Opt. Press. Min Press. Pulse, and Voltage and it will be saved under your custom made setting ZAN 20. You can tell the rows added by your rifle since they have a "Target" symbol on the tabs row number.
This means that if you chose the same speed next time it will be correct from the first shot. More rows with collected data will be added if you change speeds. Choosing another speed makes it do new corrections until the speed is reached by itself - just as shown in the videos.

So to your multi question - if i change any parameters it will correct itself.
Yes but then if using the same like 13.42 and now shoots JSB 10.34 gr. pellets it starts correcting for all settings every time. In my head it is just a mess.
If you have dedicated settings for each projectiles, it remembers all stored settings and will be ready from first shot.

I will explain in the video too - But now the chickens are out - Its not that difficult - and I still do not know why the Daystate shipped without at least the 20-30 most used slugs and pellets in each caliber.

Best regards from Denmark.

Soren and I will show how this is done in a video shortly - be patient
 
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Do someone know what is the maximum length of projectile that fits into to magazine of the delta/alpha? I assume that this depth is same in al calibers.
I havent checked but a 20 gr. Zan fits easily in the .177 magz.

I can check what i can fit into my DIY magz for the DW/AW
BRK Ghost - Daystate DeltaWolf .177 - 5.jpeg
BRK Ghost - Daystate DeltaWolf .177 - 2.jpeg
 
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i heart from AOA that the depth is 11.7mm.

is there a particular reason way you made your own magazine's?
Good Reason hehe - Do not ask my wife for a good reason :cool:

Accuracy, Accuracy, for the most. - and I also like to fill 10 magz and then shoot.
I designed magazines for many different rifles - mostly for the fun to be able to design something that works better, easier to use and have more features than the OEM magazines.
My last new design was a ManuLoader magazine for an Epoch Skout .177 with dual ball bearings.

ManuLoader is a name i invented for a full magazine working as a single loader.

When single loading you open the prope - flip the loading part out feed the perfect pellet - flip in and bolt forward then shoot.

With my ManuLoader you take your carefully sorted and checked pellets and fill into the Manuloader magazine.
Insert the ManuLoader in the rifle.

You now by hand twist the rotor into the next clear click and close the pellet probe and shoot.
Next shot open the pellet prope back - twist the rotor again one click. close the pellet probe and shoot.
Accuracy exactly like single feeding - advantages --- a lot.....

Did ManuLoaders for Red Wolf, Delta Wolf, Impact, Crown, Avenger and some i forgot.
Normal magazines for a lot more rifles.

When i personally shoot pellets, i only use ManuLoader never normal magazines.
Easy to use and just a bit more accuracy to gain.

att.UW9z41WOAnhYUx9EJ8toRsQmKflqDiwymmBk5lBsh-0.jpg


att.vGDLB3ZLLI_yNDvrHg9YJFHjrqPb3RD56zQBxXJOFrs.jpg


att.BvazeV2cwLfoQxV51yeQqubyA2nObAh6PR7XxvFHE-g.jpg



 
Good Reason hehe - Do not ask my wife for a good reason :cool:

Accuracy, Accuracy, for the most. - and I also like to fill 10 magz and then shoot.
I designed magazines for many different rifles - mostly for the fun to be able to design something that works better, easier to use and have more features than the OEM magazines.
My last new design was a ManuLoader magazine for an Epoch Skout .177 with dual ball bearings.

ManuLoader is a name i invented for a full magazine working as a single loader.

When single loading you open the prope - flip the loading part out feed the perfect pellet - flip in and bolt forward then shoot.

With my ManuLoader you take your carefully sorted and checked pellets and fill into the Manuloader magazine.
Insert the ManuLoader in the rifle.

You now by hand twist the rotor into the next clear click and close the pellet probe and shoot.
Next shot open the pellet prope back - twist the rotor again one click. close the pellet probe and shoot.
Accuracy exactly like single feeding - advantages --- a lot.....

Did ManuLoaders for Red Wolf, Delta Wolf, Impact, Crown, Avenger and some i forgot.
Normal magazines for a lot more rifles.

When i personally shoot pellets, i only use ManuLoader never normal magazines.
Easy to use and just a bit more accuracy to gain.

View attachment 460650

View attachment 460651

View attachment 460652


One of the reasons i like your design is because it does NOT use the pellet as a mag rotation stop point or detent. A fully enclosed pellet is the only right way to create a magazine that does not damage a pellet skirt. the picture below is the SKOUT .177 magazine, notice how the pellet rides on the internal retention wheels edges, instead of protecting a pellet 360 degrees. It also created to much room for angular deviation of the head while pushing the pin probe in. While this is a Daystate Wolf thread i thought it relevant for @Skout-airguns to see your solution to what i was asking them for before and after i returned my .177 skout.
IMG_6307.jpeg
 
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Good Reason hehe - Do not ask my wife for a good reason :cool:

Accuracy, Accuracy, for the most. - and I also like to fill 10 magz and then shoot.
I designed magazines for many different rifles - mostly for the fun to be able to design something that works better, easier to use and have more features than the OEM magazines.
My last new design was a ManuLoader magazine for an Epoch Skout .177 with dual ball bearings.

ManuLoader is a name i invented for a full magazine working as a single loader.

When single loading you open the prope - flip the loading part out feed the perfect pellet - flip in and bolt forward then shoot.

With my ManuLoader you take your carefully sorted and checked pellets and fill into the Manuloader magazine.
Insert the ManuLoader in the rifle.

You now by hand twist the rotor into the next clear click and close the pellet probe and shoot.
Next shot open the pellet prope back - twist the rotor again one click. close the pellet probe and shoot.
Accuracy exactly like single feeding - advantages --- a lot.....

Did ManuLoaders for Red Wolf, Delta Wolf, Impact, Crown, Avenger and some i forgot.
Normal magazines for a lot more rifles.

When i personally shoot pellets, i only use ManuLoader never normal magazines.
Easy to use and just a bit more accuracy to gain.

View attachment 460650

View attachment 460651

View attachment 460652



You definitely got some printing skills to achieve those tolerances with an FDM printer and a really nice design to!! I love it. They got me thinking about the older Daystate magazines, where magazine is rotated through a pin without detent on the pellet. Not sure how the new Daystate magazines work right now :unsure:.
Im looking for a resin printer at the moment for making molds and prototyping. Do you use a bamboo lab printer by any chance? since you can use different colors...
 
Hmmmm .... Yes and no and hhhmmm.
When you make your own custom pellet og slug setting like as an example Zan 20 gr slugs.
You need to prepare to get three minimum 3 slug speeds. This is the maximum speed you can shoot them. The lowest interesting speed you will shoot the slug and minimum one speed in the middle of the minimum or maximum.

1. I set the required Pressure - (In my DW without the ultrafire valve I will need 195 bar to get even close to the max. speed)
2. Then i in advanced mode test shoot and find a Dwell time (or pulse value) together with voltage to get the maximum speed i can get.
Write down the achieved Speed - Pulse and Voltage.

Then I figure there is probably no idea in testing lower as 750 fps with 20 gr slugs.

3 I test shoot again in advance and find a Pulse / Voltage combination that is close to 750 fps.
Write all numbers down.

4 I test shoot the to find 3 to 10 speeds in between the min and maximum speeds.
For all these speeds I write down the Pulse / voltage.

5 Then I connect the rifle to the Daystate programmer and load the current settings.
Go to the factory Tab and under caliber i select .177 and 23" barrel.
Then I add now a new setting called "ZAN 20 gr."

6 I now select insert rows - I choose as example 10 rows. (The minimum for the automatic to work are 3 rows)

7 In these rows - I enter the data I collected from the test shooting starting by the Maximum speed at the top.
You can always delete. add rows before and after a row.

8 You will have to enter Actual pressure (The pressure you used when test shooting) also Optimal pressure and minimum pressure. Minimum pressure i guess is where the pressure is too low to reach the speed so it is more testing or a guess.
Optimal pressure is like for a mechanical rifle the the pressure for a speed where you balance accuracy and air consumption. like a little above the lowest pressure where you can get the wanted speed.

9 When all these informations are entered you can save your new setting to the rifle by pressing write,

Save your new rifle setting as a file with a revision note.

10 now you can take you rifle to the shooting range and start shooting with the Zan 20 gr. settings in factory mode.
Chose any speed within your minimum and maximum tested speed like 880 fps. Shoot 3 to 4 shots and its a "home run"
Now if you chose any speed you did not test in your chart like 770 fps, the rifle will calculate and guess the settings based on the closest lower and higher speed.
When it shoots it corrects itself until another "home run" :)
When you continue to shoot more and it shoots 4 shots with a maximum variation of +/- 4 fps - It will add a line in your table with the reached settings.
The new added line in your settings will look like the ones you made from scratch with Pressure, Opt. Press. Min Press. Pulse, and Voltage and it will be saved under your custom made setting ZAN 20. You can tell the rows added by your rifle since they have a "Target" symbol on the tabs row number.
This means that if you chose the same speed next time it will be correct from the first shot. More rows with collected data will be added if you change speeds. Choosing another speed makes it do new corrections until the speed is reached by itself - just as shown in the videos.

So to your multi question - if i change any parameters it will correct itself.
Yes but then if using the same like 13.42 and now shoots JSB 10.34 gr. pellets it starts correcting for all settings every time. In my head it is just a mess.
If you have dedicated settings for each projectiles, it remembers all stored settings and will be ready from first shot.

I will explain in the video too - But now the chickens are out - Its not that difficult - and I still do not know why the Daystate shipped without at least the 20-30 most used slugs and pellets in each caliber.

Best regards from Denmark.

Soren and I will show how this is done in a video shortly - be patient
This may seem silly but was a necessary twist for me and my wolf. I had an issue which caused me to send my .177 carbine barrel and chrono back to AOA for a fix, but meanwhile I still needed to shoot HFT at <20 ftlbs. I only had a 28” long .177 barrel which meant factory settings would not support shooting a lighter pellet at a slower speed. My odd solution was to tell the computer I was still shooting a 13” barrel but I was only using an 8.4 pellet. I plugged in a desired speed of 890 and within 4 shots I was hft legal and crazy tight groups at 55 yards. I’m looking forward to learning more about the advanced mode.
 
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You definitely got some printing skills to achieve those tolerances with an FDM printer and a really nice design to!! I love it. They got me thinking about the older Daystate magazines, where magazine is rotated through a pin without detent on the pellet. Not sure how the new Daystate magazines work right now :unsure:.
Im looking for a resin printer at the moment for making molds and prototyping. Do you use a bamboo lab printer by any chance? since you can use different colors...
Sorry I did not get to answer you before.
Yes I have been printing with a heavy updated Creality printer for about 4 years gaining a lot of practical experience.
Then in January this year I bought a Bambu Lab P1S Combo with AMS filament system.
By from the very first prints I discovered that all my hard learned skills in 3d printed was mostly wasted. I opened the package from Bambu Lab and assembled the 3D printer and already from my very first prints with the Bambu standard settings, the print quality outperformed everything I ever 3d Printed.
And that was at speed and Acc. that was about 5-7 times higher than my normally fast print quality.

So yes, Today I will never recommend anything else than a Bambu Lab for the first printer. And buy the Combo version with the 4 filament spool AMS system. This is not only to automatic being able to change colour, but also to be able to use support filament. Look example -
Support filament.jpg

This is a print of a magasin body in Petg filament.
When It comes to the support area I use one layer of PLA filament as automatic Support interface with 0.0mm distance. These filaments will not fuse with each others. So when I remove the support it just pops off and leave an even surface where the dimension are very accurate too.
All these things together there is only one choice of printer today - Bambu Lab. All others are trying to close the gap, but it is difficult for them to supply all the settings for their printers so that you can print without any experience.
Bambu Lab works - If your neighbour buys a Bambu lab printer - he can outperform years of 3d printing experience.
 
Sorry I did not get to answer you before.
Yes I have been printing with a heavy updated Creality printer for about 4 years gaining a lot of practical experience.
Then in January this year I bought a Bambu Lab P1S Combo with AMS filament system.
By from the very first prints I discovered that all my hard learned skills in 3d printed was mostly wasted. I opened the package from Bambu Lab and assembled the 3D printer and already from my very first prints with the Bambu standard settings, the print quality outperformed everything I ever 3d Printed.
And that was at speed and Acc. that was about 5-7 times higher than my normally fast print quality.

So yes, Today I will never recommend anything else than a Bambu Lab for the first printer. And buy the Combo version with the 4 filament spool AMS system. This is not only to automatic being able to change colour, but also to be able to use support filament. Look example -
View attachment 462165
This is a print of a magasin body in Petg filament.
When It comes to the support area I use one layer of PLA filament as automatic Support interface with 0.0mm distance. These filaments will not fuse with each others. So when I remove the support it just pops off and leave an even surface where the dimension are very accurate too.
All these things together there is only one choice of printer today - Bambu Lab. All others are trying to close the gap, but it is difficult for them to supply all the settings for their printers so that you can print without any experience.
Bambu Lab works - If your neighbour buys a Bambu lab printer - he can outperform years of 3d printing experience.
Yes Ive heart good things about bambu lap. Your print looks very clean and the use of different colors in one product is very cool 🙂. I also like the Markforged fdm printers that are able to print composite materials with continuous fiber inlay for high mechanical strength. But you're going to pay 🤌. I probably go for a resin printer for tighter tolerances and details. Resin has less mechanical strength but for prototyping its fine.

How are things stand with your Delta Wolf programming video? And do you already have the new balance valve in place?
Ive send Rachel Flint from Daystate an email with the question if they provide more profiles in the factory mode for different weights of slugs, since Ive ordered a Alpha Wolf Safari .22 with a slug barrel. Also ive asked if they can provide information on how to make your own new profile in factory mode.
 
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I have an unresolved velocity issue with my DW in .25. The velocity will drop from the preset to somewhere in the 600’s. Only cycling the rifle on/off will reset and shoot at the programmed speed. If I cycle from factory mode to advanced it is 100% reproducible. New regulator did not fix my issue.

I am guessing you can confirm based on shooting characteristic/impact that it is indeed shooting much slower.

Have you tried using advanced settings to get the 950?