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Daystate AirWolf MCT barrel moving

Not betting large sums of money yet but I'm pretty sure my barrel is moving. With or without shroud, with or without reflex moderator the guns zero moves around mostly in a circle NOT just up and down or left right but in a circle. If I even slightly flex the barrel a little, such as might happen if you leaned barrel against a wall, the zero changes. Screws are pretty tight (getting at the bottom one is bother). I never got the reasoning behind the one screw on bottom, two on top method of affixing a barrel but here we are. By design I don't think the barrel hole in receiver is exactly round so angle can be adjusted. What else can I do? If there are any tuners out there what is you secret fix? I was thinking about shimming around the barrel. the three grub screw configuration does little to limit lateral movement. I know the 3 screw is to allow angling the barrel up and down to counter droop or other irregularities to bring barrel inline with the scope.

I could be wrongly diagnosing my problem but the zero moves around even if velocity is steady and hold consistent. Sometimes deliberately flexing the barrel a few times will bring it back to "original" zero. The zero range of movement is about 1 to 1.5 inches (50 yds) usually but can be much worse especially if the rifle sees a lot of handling. The barrel is free float without any type of barrel band and the shroud does not touch or bind against the receiver (it only touches barrel). The shift is usually linear instead of looking like flyers here and there as the gun settles in for 3 to 8 shots sometimes. Again, velocity doesn't seem to be an issue as this happens with ES of less than 6 fps or so. Tested with 3 scopes. Gun is at least 7 years old and the problem was the same on original electronic board as it is now on the Heliboard I have in it now. 



The reflex moderator shifts everything about 4-5" out to 4 o'clock and while i know moderators can shift zero this seems a little much (this is a separate issue). 
 
Try this- remove the top half of the barrelled action and remove that barrel from the breech block. Clean inside that breech block barrel channel as well as the barrel. Use nail polish to act as a liquid shim- locktite then reassemble. Thoroughly clean the leade and TP to remove any excess nail polish. Shoot after thoroughly dried. If that works then either leave it be till that nail polish eventually cracks you will know it when your wandering shots happens again or crack that nail polish use cutex and go with red locktite or epoxy.
 
Airwolfs had some bad runs of them in 22 caliber with this very same issue as described. Accurate No doubt but still. No known issues in the other calibers 177, 20, 25. I bet he has a 22 judging by his post. Typical of one of the bad ones. That's the only hope to epoxy that barrel permanent. LW and or Daystate had some not so perfect barrel to breech marriage fitments. That's why there were a rash of 22 Airwolfs suddenly up for sale. Pulling hairs! 
 
Replace breech o-ring while in there ... own a MCT Wolf in .20 cal & it never changes POI except when barrels dirty or a pellet it don't like for speed being shot. ( heliboard equipped )


Mine is 22 & I shoot 18.1 JSB @ 890fps and sometimes @930 fps. Above 930 not so good. My gun has done this almost since new. Originally I thought is was scope until I started switching out scopes. I'll bet even when your barrel gets dirty it doesn't have POI wander around in a circle. I need to make sure I have O rings before beginning. Other than fill port all seals are original and gun holds air forever. I'm familiar with and have serviced the hammer system but have never opened the valve body.



Try this- remove the top half of the barrelled action and remove that barrel from the breech block. Clean inside that breech block barrel channel as well as the barrel. Use nail polish to act as a liquid shim- locktite then reassemble.

OK, glue in the barrel...I probably can do that. 
 
Airwolfs had some bad runs of them in 22 caliber with this very same issue as described. Accurate No doubt but still. No known issues in the other calibers 177, 20, 25. I bet he has a 22 judging by his post. Typical of one of the bad ones. That's the only hope to epoxy that barrel permanent. LW and or Daystate had some not so perfect barrel to breech marriage fitments. That's why there were a rash of 22 Airwolfs suddenly up for sale. Pulling hairs!


Would a new barrel make a difference or is it primarily the receiver? I could mill/bore out the receiver and then sleeve it. Yep it's a 22.
 
Yours probably even shoot the cheap Wal-Mart Crosman Premier CPHPs 14.3 pretty damn good too I bet and the Pointed 14.3 too.


Didn't like barracudas--not pure hate just didn't like them. I was planning on using them when I bought the gun but switched to JSB's. My range is now at 65 yds and I can put 3 or 4 consecutive shots into 3/8" but usually not more. I think the vibration of certain combinations of bottle pressure vs dwell move things. I can have 2 shots with same velocity yet they "sound" different. I'm having issues with my RAW and was about to rebuild it when I called Martin about new barrel better moderator for it and he said he'd reseal and tune my gun for $120---kind of a no brainer: me or the man who designed and built the rifle....So I'm running out of airguns and I'm up to my A** in raccoons and coyotes! Trying to find Lelya in 22 but it seems all that is around are .25's. I don't mind a few "tinker" guns but I'm really ready for a bullet proof no fuss gun that you just pick up and shoot. 

Also, glad you told me about some "problem" AirWolf's because I thought I was loosing my mind chasing a problem no one had ever heard of. I'm thinking about using bedding compound using release agent on barrel (after I polish it) and grub screws so I can pull out barrel in the future. I will probably need to replace port/breech O ring from time to time. Gluing will require a little engineering and finesse to keep air passage functioning correctly.
 
There were a few issues with the Daystates a while back and although there were a couple of barrel issues I remember reading about, more of the problems were attributed to the shrouds. I certainly wouldn't epoxy, or glue anything until you figure out what the problem is for sure. Motorhead is a phenomenal gunsmith, if he says to clean the barrel and change the breech o-ring, that's where I'd start. I would then test one thing at a time to help you isolate the problem and know exactly what it is. We've all had issues that have had us scratching our heads and often times it's something simple that we've overlooked....action screws, pellets clipping, bad tune, etc... Good luck!

Stoti
 
I stripped down the top of the gun as suggested cleaned and reassembled. I broke loose barrel screws which felt like locktite even though I don't remember using any last time, could have just been some seizing. I broke loose screw, remembering where my Allen wrench was pointing before loosening and worked screw back & forth a little then re-tightened to see where my wrench was pointing. This was my crude attempt to judge how tight the screw really was before. Well 3 of the four screws indicated that they had been reasonably tight while the 4th when re-tightened went in more than 1/4 turn further. A quarter turn is enough to go from loose to tight. This was the back screw on the bottom nearest breech. I then went ahead and took all apart to clean and reseal. The old transfer port O ring seemed good and still coated with the white grease (M-Kote 33L ?) but I changed it anyway. Today the wind is really up and gusty so I can't do a good test yet. Loose screw is "a" problem, here's hoping it was "the" problem. I did not put any thread locker on anything although if this fixes the problem I might go back and do so with blue or whatever is the weakest.

Thanks guys for sticking with me this far. My RAW goes to Martin next week if I can find a way to box it for tune and moderator which I hope will be as good as Clague which I planned on but all the shipping around makes it less attractive to split up job. Also, having martin tune gun with moderator in place might be a plus. 

So motorhead did you set out to be an airgun smith or did you acquire so much gear and experience chasing down gremlins in your personal guns that you felt you had to hire out to justify it all?😧 I'm afraid I will be tempted to get all tooled up with nowhere to go....I've done it before (rebuild cameras and lenses, some watches, fountain pens, scuba gear, on and on)
 
Lol ...

Started out as a machinist in the late 70's .... not liking it and being into racing M/C's doing lots of performance engine work followed that path for the next 25+ years as a commercial small engine tech / tuner. Sense those days have taken on many hobbies that a good mechanical & fabrication background indeed helped. Now retired use the acquired skill set for my own guns and those who like what I do, working on there guns too. lets say it creates mad money so i can shoot competitive Field target & travel more than if i have no mad money income. i think too much, therefor fiddle too much and just figure stuff out others overlook or simply don't think about or explore .... AKA: Neurotic 



Humbly,

Scott S
 
Update:

Zero seems a lot more stable and I'm getting about .5-.8" groups at 64yds (between 5 and ten shots or until a flyer). There are some flyers that can take a group out to just over 1" (ctc). Probably as far as I can go with testing without sorting/weighing pellets. So far shooting from the tin. ES 889-897 which oddly is about 5fps on average higher than before working on top of gun. I've never tried lubing pellets and it seems a controversial topic, much like molycoating firearm bullets. 

We will see if zero holds over several days.....