Damned 1322 hand grip threads are stripped

[Raden1942]

Hey fellas. Does anyone know what is the best way to fix these stripped threads. I was thinking of putting thread restorer glue inside then drilling and taping it all over again. I could also drill slightly larger and get new bolts. The issue is the pot metal frame and I fear that the purpose of takedown backpack gun is pointless due to the soft nature of the metal. I only switched grips like 4 times and I was careful not to turn too tight and its already been a problem. If I can't make this stronger than it was to begin with I might just glue the screws in permanently and just forget about having a takedown. What do you guys think? Can it be made stronger or should I just glue them in?

 

[Long_Gun_Dallas]

I'd get some metal mixed epoxy and fill/re-tap or get a new grip frame (they have to be very cheap, I don't think more than $15 shipped from Crosman) or just epoxy the grips on



You could also get a tie rod end/joiner. Cut it to size, and bore that pice out/epoxy new tierod piece in 

 

[biohazardman]

If you are going to be taking the screws in and out then I would drill and tap the metal again. I have found that sometimes the threads are not all that great even on a new gun. You can shape the head of the larger screw, to make it fit better, by putting the threaded side in a drill spinning it and holding a file to the head. I usually start with a longer screw than needed then when done shaping the head I cut off the extra threads, with a Dremel, and run the screw through the back side of a die to get rid of the burr from the cut.

 

[marflow]

so the screw is a number 6 - 32 threads so i would try a 4 mm screw and tap it out at that size and i would not drill it at all 

so you need a tap and two 4 mm - .70 screws or just buy a new frame but you is painted green 

fix the holes 

and after you fix the hole get a lighter spring for that sear 

 

[biohazardman]

+1 on what marflow said and the spring too. Best not to drill if you can get away with it as there is not a lot of metal there. Shame on you leaving that stock spring in there. ;^)

 

[Raden1942]

Yeah kinda lame of me to spend 350 bucks or more on the highly modified 1322 and then leaving the oem spring in. Honestly I bet it would cost me 5 bucks to make it better. Lol seems silly now that you mention it. 

 

[biohazardman]

Yup a lighter spring, a guide and some polishing on the parts where they hit together goes a long way on making a much better trigger.

 

[DirtyDovi]

+2 on what marflow said.

IF You ever end up having to go the route of filling-drilling-tapping though, 
I always suggest a product called "Lab-Metal". It's great stuff.
Think of it as like a metal-body filler. It can be drilled/tapped/shaped-even powder coated.. 

But if/when you can get away with just tapping and then up-sizing the hardware, go for it!

 

Sam -