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Tuning Daisy 717 Screw-in Valve in Old 880's etc..

, I don’t know if it’ll work for you. Those new valves for the 717 doesn’t even work in it either. When I rebuilt my 717, I had to use the original valve. Yes it was too long and wouldn’t let all the air out. So I’m thinking if it won’t even work in the gun it was made for , I don’t know if it’ll work for you in your case.It’s not a OEM part.
 
 I messaged the seller where I bought mine and told them that it wouldn’t work after I bought it and got no response. If you look at the original one side by side they are completely different in length and shape .I’m not the only one that has had that issue either. I could shoot mine and the power would be low. And without re-cocking,There was still a little bit of air left to shoot it again with very low power. And it made a weird sound like it was sucking air through a straw. After my first comment I was thinking about what you just said. And that was modifying the longer valve to make it close to the original one. 
 
Is this the same valve that you are talking about? I think the spring is a little different too in it.
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Well, the 717 valve is NOT the 880 valve...

The stem, or, poppet is the same as in the new 80............the seat in the new 880 is different.

I cannot even get it to seal reliably in the old 880.

Placing a shim under the C-clip provides for greater opening, but a hole must be ground into the receivers in order for the stem to open (ala the 1977 Winnie.)

By re-shaping the nose I get them to work. But, it has been a long uphill battle learning how to do that.
 
 OK I got you now. I miss read the pictures that you showed of the three valves. I’m just glad that my original valve was still good because I was a little frustrated at first .And at least you got yours figured out.I still feel that I got ripped off though because I paid $25 for a rebuild kit and could only use the seals. I only paid $5 for a seal kit for my mark one CO2 pistol.