Watching the video, the thing that jumps out to me is huge amount of lateral movement when the shot breaks. The gun is not held in an accuracy inducing manner. The gun is recoiling different in every shot, and they are all significant in magnitude. Not trying to bust yer balls, just pointing out what I see.
Upvote 0
See that gray ring around the first baffle? See how close it is to the face of the muzzle? There is nowhere for that initial blast of air to go, and in my theory it was destabilizing the pellet.
Put it on three different guns and neither were as accurate with it on. I put it in the lathe and bored out the first baffle to muzzle diameter. Fixed it on all three guns. Another issue is the thread tolerance on this are floppy loose. Looser than all the other moderators I've owned.
When I threaded the barrel on my HW100 I used the Tanto for my fit check, since it was going to stay on it, and none of my other mods will even go on the threads.
Putting an oring between the moderator and barrel face will destroy the only thing that keeps the moderator square to the bore. The interface of where the rear of the moderator meets the square face of the rear of the threads ensures all is square. Loose andfloppy threads can cause a loss of concentricity. Hence the reason for fitting the threads to the Tanto when I cut them in. Later on if I want to use a different mod, I'll have to chuck the barrel back up and cut them deeper to fit the new one. IMO it's the best way to make sure everything is lined up the best it can be.
Do you agree the only way to fix this kind of issue to guarantee harmonics and air blast uneven turbulence nonconcentricity or whatever etc can only be fixed is to permanently epoxy the LDC onto the gun and keep it specific to that gun? The worlds best airgun tuner threw that one at me before when discussing ultimate accuracy. Yo!
I thought you were the world's best airgun tuner?!
I don't think it needs to go to that extreme to be very accurate. Would it make a difference? Maybe, but I doubt we could tell by just shooting it. In my opinion, as long as the mod is straight, square to the bore, and concentric to the bore all is good. If the threads are fit well and the interface is square, it should be repeatable as far as taking it off and on. I'm not one to really swap around mods all the time from gun to gun. If it works I leave it, part of the reason I fit the threads to the mod cause it's probably staying.
The slip fit and epoxy on method like you describe does sound good. I couldn't get used to it because it would be a real pain in the ole ass to clean. I had to shake a pellet out of a long AZ shroud once and it about drove me nuts lol
weight can play a factor on harmonics, but that's out of my league. I just attempt to keep the shortest and stiffest barrel and hope it all goes well as far as that's concerned lol. And use a mod that's not made from cast iron.
I was watching a vid the other day of the AEAC guy talking to a FT champ about an air stripper. It was adjustable and the guy raved about how much it could reduce group size. That goes along with what Allen Zasadny told me one time about his shrouds enhancing accuracy because they were fit as close as possible to bore size and stripped the air more thoroughly.
All I know, is that closed in pocket and the first baffle in my Donny moderator was causing some serious issues for me. And this is on a 16fpe tune .22 cal. Just something to look out for if you happen to come across it. I never would have figured it would make that much difference. I'm certainly not an expert on any of it, just a habitual tinker and I found some things that I believe to be true. It's interesting stuff.
Upvote 0
You know AZ actually epoxies each and every single baffle exit hole perfectly concentric to your specific gun bore? Lines up templates takes some shots then builds them baffles and positions all of them perfect? He never believes in thread on LDCs. Perfect world if he did them fatter and shorter rather than having them extended into the next county. Yo!
Upvote 0
I actually had him put one on my HW100 several years ago. It was quiet, but long. He said he went to great lengths to be sure it was centered but didn't mention what at the time. Mine had bushings that were a tight fit over the barrel at the muzzle and breech. You know I guess the tighter you got the pellet to fit through the baffles the quieter it would be regardless what it was. And if you go to the lengths he does to be sure it's straight, then it's no wonder they work well.
Upvote 0
Bingo. Now you're onto the crux of the matter. I'm not sure what the final answer will be (if there ever is one) but if it were spin rate only then it would happen EVERY TIME at the given velocity. Seems that, at least in your case as phrased, it doesn't.
Upvote 0
That was discussed earlier. It isn’t solely the spin rate. It is a combination of the spin rate and imperfections in the pellets. We can sort pellets and try to minimize those imperfections but they are always present to varying degrees, thus if we want to further minimize the incidence of spiraling, we have to look elsewhere.
This logic can be taken to the extreme to point out we don’t need rifled barrels if our pellets are perfect.
This logic can be taken to the extreme to point out we don’t need rifled barrels if our pellets are perfect.
Upvote 0
G
Guest
Guest
Totally agree. I believe I can keep playing around with fps to find that sweet spot of harmony between the barrel twist rate and the pellets spin rate. Or I could already be on that level of tune and my results is what it is. Sorting the pellets makes no difference I got 2 more things I'm going to try before I write off using the JSB Beast. I'm going to turn the fps to 1000 fps. Considering going from 900 to 850 the spiral got worse at closer distances. If that doesn't help I will wait for fx to release the superior liner in .177. But I think it's just time to upgrade in cal.. .22
Upvote 0