Cursed airgunner

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Peashooter

Peashooter

Member
Apr 9, 2021
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Denmark
So my FX Maverick i have thrown in under the bed, i really can not deal with that damn gun right now, so i have been using my vulcan 3

BUT ! now it is hexed too.
So the day before yesterday i ran it over the chrony, and saw speeds at 900 FPS, so as i wanted to have a higher speed as a starting point yesterday i turned the hammer spring ever so slightly and shot 5 more shots across the living room and now saw speeds just about 1000 FPS, so that was plenty i figured and put the rifle away.

Then unpacking my Vulcan 3 yesterday,,,,, well somehow without changing anything it would only shoot 580 FPS all of a sudden.

And i am totally at a loss here CUZ i have no idea what could give such a massive drop from 1 shot to the other, well aside for a blown Breech O-ring, but there are no air escaping anywhere when i shoot it.
Putting in a stronger spring i can also get the rifle to shoot a little over 800 FPS but thats also it ( always shooting 13 grain slugs )
 
Peashooter said:
So my FX Maverick i have thrown in under the bed, i really can not deal with that damn gun right now, so i have been using my vulcan 3

BUT ! now it is hexed too.
So the day before yesterday i ran it over the chrony, and saw speeds at 900 FPS, so as i wanted to have a higher speed as a starting point yesterday i turned the hammer spring ever so slightly and shot 5 more shots across the living room and now saw speeds just about 1000 FPS, so that was plenty i figured and put the rifle away.

Then unpacking my Vulcan 3 yesterday,,,,, well somehow without changing anything it would only shoot 580 FPS all of a sudden.

And i am totally at a loss here CUZ i have no idea what could give such a massive drop from 1 shot to the other, well aside for a blown Breech O-ring, but there are no air escaping anywhere when i shoot it.
Putting in a stronger spring i can also get the rifle to shoot a little over 800 FPS but thats also it ( always shooting 13 grain slugs )
Click to expand...
Hammer spring adjustment may be loose.
 
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Indeed but the hammer spring cap / adjustment screw, well it cant back out very much.
Actually i find that 1 mm past flush with the back end of the rifle and i can not cock the rifle, and before flush, well it seem like a couple of mm and you can not put on the stock.
So pretty limited range of motion i feel, though the same could also be said about the hammer spring adjustment screw accessed via the hole in the Mavericks hammer spring adjustment wheel.

Yesterday my first measure was to look at things, so the valve return spring cap, that is the stock 19 mm
The hammer spring cap / screw, well it was also flush where i left it the day before

So aside for a blown breech O-ring ( which i have not checked yet ) then i am at a loss, just shooting the rifle and there was no leak to be felt around the magazine, or with a single shot manually inserted and fired with no magazine in place.
Very different from the FX cutlass / cyclone where we have experienced a blown breech O-ring, and here air escaping back thru the magazine was easy to feel after that happened.

I am using the FX pocket chrono, but you dont even have to use it, the sound are A LOT less, and also the POI which was dead on at a little over 900 FPS, so if anything the 1000 FPS i measured / changed to at home the day before yesterday should mean the hole was above where i aim, but at the 50 M i was zeroed at the slugs now landed 15 - 20 inches below where the aim was / where i hit last i used the rifle.

Also the hammer spring cap / screw, it should not move when the rifle have not been used, and surely not with the first shot, and it was bad from the get go as i had to change to sub 12 / UK airgun setting on the chrono to even get a reading.
Also that hammer spring cap lock grub screw, well i dont like stabbing my thread with a steel screw, so i have made a modification here so plastic are up against the cap thread.
Though that is a pain to work with if you have the cap all the way out, but for the little range of the actual adjustment range it work fine and my end cap ned a hex key to be moved.

loss of 50% FPS is what confuse me, i dont even think just using the hammer spring i would be able to lower my speed that much.
Rifle set up to shoot 13 grain at 1000 FPS at the maximum hammer spring setting, so i can back off untill i hit the sweet spot, or untill i can not assemble the gun stock due to the now very backed out cap, in which case i have weaker hammer spring to use if say i wanted to shoot 10 grain pellets.
 
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Peashooter said:
So my FX Maverick i have thrown in under the bed, i really can not deal with that damn gun right now, so i have been using my vulcan 3

BUT ! now it is hexed too.
So the day before yesterday i ran it over the chrony, and saw speeds at 900 FPS, so as i wanted to have a higher speed as a starting point yesterday i turned the hammer spring ever so slightly and shot 5 more shots across the living room and now saw speeds just about 1000 FPS, so that was plenty i figured and put the rifle away.

Then unpacking my Vulcan 3 yesterday,,,,, well somehow without changing anything it would only shoot 580 FPS all of a sudden.

And i am totally at a loss here CUZ i have no idea what could give such a massive drop from 1 shot to the other, well aside for a blown Breech O-ring, but there are no air escaping anywhere when i shoot it.
Putting in a stronger spring i can also get the rifle to shoot a little over 800 FPS but thats also it ( always shooting 13 grain slugs )
Click to expand...
I'll relieve you of that hexed Maverick. I have the proper incantations and oils to expel the demons within.
 
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The part of the valve pin that come out of the,,,, eeem plenum pipe in the vulcan, and as i see it pretty much most CZ made airguns CUZ i feel they are very much alike.
Well that part look as small as it have always been, i think the travel are only like 6-7 mm at most, the hammer hit a stop so it do not crash into the part the valve pin come out off.
And i have not used / tried a stringer valve pin return spring, or used Insane regulator pressures as it is after all .177

I will take it apart soon ( 10 in the evening just about ) but i can degass it and look around, maybe snap some pics to share.

I will not sell the Maverick, i have only 1 time sold something and that was my Amiga 500+, and i am not going there again, also even if shipping half way around the world i am sure would be expensive to do, seeing as everything in Denmark are extremely expensive, i do not think any shop here have free shipping on anything no matter how much money you spent there.
 
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Peashooter said:
Indeed but the hammer spring cap / adjustment screw, well it cant back out very much.
Actually i find that 1 mm past flush with the back end of the rifle and i can not cock the rifle, and before flush, well it seem like a couple of mm and you can not put on the stock.
So pretty limited range of motion i feel, though the same could also be said about the hammer spring adjustment screw accessed via the hole in the Mavericks hammer spring adjustment wheel.

Yesterday my first measure was to look at things, so the valve return spring cap, that is the stock 19 mm
The hammer spring cap / screw, well it was also flush where i left it the day before

So aside for a blown breech O-ring ( which i have not checked yet ) then i am at a loss, just shooting the rifle and there was no leak to be felt around the magazine, or with a single shot manually inserted and fired with no magazine in place.
Very different from the FX cutlass / cyclone where we have experienced a blown breech O-ring, and here air escaping back thru the magazine was easy to feel after that happened.

I am using the FX pocket chrono, but you dont even have to use it, the sound are A LOT less, and also the POI which was dead on at a little over 900 FPS, so if anything the 1000 FPS i measured / changed to at home the day before yesterday should mean the hole was above where i aim, but at the 50 M i was zeroed at the slugs now landed 15 - 20 inches below where the aim was / where i hit last i used the rifle.

Also the hammer spring cap / screw, it should not move when the rifle have not been used, and surely not with the first shot, and it was bad from the get go as i had to change to sub 12 / UK airgun setting on the chrono to even get a reading.
Also that hammer spring cap lock grub screw, well i dont like stabbing my thread with a steel screw, so i have made a modification here so plastic are up against the cap thread.
Though that is a pain to work with if you have the cap all the way out, but for the little range of the actual adjustment range it work fine and my end cap ned a hex key to be moved.

loss of 50% FPS is what confuse me, i dont even think just using the hammer spring i would be able to lower my speed that much.
Rifle set up to shoot 13 grain at 1000 FPS at the maximum hammer spring setting, so i can back off untill i hit the sweet spot, or untill i can not assemble the gun stock due to the now very backed out cap, in which case i have weaker hammer spring to use if say i wanted to shoot 10 grain pellets.
Click to expand...
Then I’d key in on your reg. I can’t think of anything else accounting for such a drastic loss of power.
 
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Yeah, i was thinking maybe some crud got lodged in it, then again that is also a stretch i think with the rifle dropping 50% speed from one shot to the next 12 hours later.
Still the regulator are still very much on my mind, and also the next thing i will look at, CUZ all the other things i have not looked at 2 times seem good.

I have just dismantled the rifle and breech O-ring seem OK, and silly me i thought i had a repair kit for the vulcan 3, but NOPE i do not have that, so online shopping in 3-2-1

I am able to blow thru the regulator, with the little pressure i can make with my one lounge, so there is a hole thru it alright, when i screw on the airtank ( tank with FX 1 way valve, so the pressure go up at once the bottle valve open and then i think i can hear the regulator regulate, just like you can hear in between shots shooting my Maverick.

Will see tomorrow 11:15 at night now and the kids above me have a baby so even if the Vulcan 3 are "double canned " ( its own build in moderator + my Huma regulator ) i am not going to let it rip now, CUZ i am a nice considerate guy,,,,,,, and i have online shopping to do.;)

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Okay i am up to speed again, but then again i also was that a week ago until the day after.
Actually as i have upped the reg ever so little, and put in my most beefy hammer spring, well i am damn near supersonic ( 1080 FPS )

BUT ! Now the Vulcan 3 give me another kind of grief :sleep:

So when i put the barrel in and tighten it, first i tighten the back 2 X 2 screws at the breech end, then remaining are the 2 X 2 screws under the scope rail.
So i tighten the back 2 of them, and everything is fine, then i tighten the front 2, and suddenly the cocking mechanism are very hard to operate.
So loosen the front 2 screws again, and the cocking are butter smooth, operate so fine i can cock the rifle with a eyelash with no hammer spring in there.

Tightening the barrel screws in other order, well it do not matter.

I am wondering which deity i have offended, even if i do my best to not talk or think of any of them, and in general be a good boy.
 
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