Cs4 Power supply

Battery booster won't help you. You need 25+ amps for feed the pump from 12 volt. Battery booster box or battery charger will not deliver the power you need.

What do you mean "it went out?" Did the magic smoke come out?

I have had the same power supply from CS3 and CS4 for over 5 years - never had any problems with it. You can't run it with a skinny extension cord. I have used the kind of power supply for over 15 years - rarely do they fail.
 
Battery booster won't help you. You need 25+ amps for feed the pump from 12 volt. Battery booster box or battery charger will not deliver the power you need.

What do you mean "it went out?" Did the magic smoke come out?

I have had the same power supply from CS3 and CS4 for over 5 years - never had any problems with it. You can't run it with a skinny extension cord. I have used the kind of power supply for over 15 years - rarely do they fail.
OK, that’s good to know. It just stopped working. It was plugged directly into the wall no fan know anything.
 
I bought this thing on Amazon Black Friday and yesterday the power inverter went out. I haven’t been super impressed with the set up anyways. Has anybody tried anything else that’s a little more convenient maybe like a battery booster for a car or something like that?

Try using a deep cycle marine battery for trolling motors
 
Did the outlet stop working? Troubleshoot 101.

Are the wires connected securely?

Did the power supply stop, or did the pump stop?

Is it still not working (did you unplug, turn off, switch to a different wall socket and try again?)

Did you try the pump directly off your car battery?
I plugged it in. It turned on. I had the relief valve open. I turned the compressor on. It. Ran for about three seconds and turned off. No power no fan. I unplugged. It went to a different outlet that I tested and it still didn’t work.
 
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There is a thread somewhere here where someone found some burnt out electrical parts on the inside and was able to fix it. Just in case yours eventually dies. I actually really like the external supply setup. I look at that converter as a disposable commodity. If it dies just trash it and order another one. No tearing into the compressor. Mine has been going over two years.
 
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Home from work today and was planning on taking it apart to see if I could see a loose wire or something. Maybe check the power supply cord. And a damn thing works. I plugged it into the exact same plug in the house filled up my air gun it’s been running for about a half hour now
Many devices have thermal fuses ("polyfuses"), so once it cooled off it may have reset itself.
 
+1

These power supplies are very common, often sold as LED power supplies. I have been using them for decades, as battery chargers, RV power converters, vehicle troubleshooting assistance, etc.

They are claimed to be self limiting in terms of current output (maximum amps), but also have a small glass fuse (Buss-type) soldered to the circuit board. When I set one up for use for other applications, I usually remove that fuse and solder in leads to a Mini fuse or ATC fuse holder that is located outside of the housing. I wouldn't bother for the compressor as the chance of fuse failure appears to be highly unlikely, IME.

These power supplies also have a small potentiometer, usually to the left of the terminal strip. I will try to make time to pull the plastic protector from one of my GX power supplies if someone is interested. The potentiometer is for adjusting the output voltage which can often be adjusted between low 13 volts and just under 15 volts DC.

The little yellow potentiometer adjustment is seen to the immediate left of the terminal strip.

Given that these compressors routinely operate from running motor vehicles, which typically output nearly 15 VDC, an over voltage adjustment of one of these power supplies seems unlikely. On the other hand, DC motors tend not to like low voltage so, like the common protensity of amateurs to want to operate engines at too low temperature, I don't recommend turning down the voltage.

The second photo is, of course, a GX power supply.


The third photo shows the internal circuit board of a generic power supply of this type. The finger points to the glass fuse. The voltage adjustment potentiometer is to the right of the terminal strip and can only be seen as a reflection on the case. The 120/240 VAC switch is center top.

Terminals on generic power supply (1).jpg


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Inside generic power supply.jpg
 
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