Crown Contimuum MK IIs\' at 3000 FPS

[cbow]

New to PCP. Had two springers that on a calm day would usually hit somewhere on a 12" pie plate at 10 yds. Just purchased a new FX Crown Continuum MKII in .22 cal. (Knees weak from sticker shock) but don't you just love that new airgun smell? Oh yea, and a 98 cu3 ft carbon wrap air bottle. It's only money that heirs and assumes would pizz away anyhow. Is there any publication available that is somewhat more in depth than the manufactures product info provided with the FX Crown Continuum MK II airgun? Really interested in an old school hand held book with info about tuning, reg pressures, knob names and what their for, projectile choices and their affect on performance. How to "dial it in" stuff in writing that pertains to the Crown MKII. To Continuue, If 1500 FX Crown Continuum MK II owners were marching past me at 2 Footfalls Per Second would I indeed be seeing Crown Continuums at 3000 fps? Just a thought. Thanks cbow

 

[18.13]

https://youtu.be/Dzs_muWHE5s

 

[cbow]

Thanks 18.13. I've seen that one and it's a good video, once you wade thru the sales pitch up front. The last 30 min. are in very informative. Have you seen the person in the background messing with a dog? Watched the last section several times if you count backing up and reviewing. There is a guy from FX that does complete take downs and reassembly. Also a guy from the south who has binders full of his test stats on tuning and pellet performance. And Matt Dubber... Plus lots of other shorter videos about specific repairs/upgrades. I would like to find a reference book with 8X10 color glossy photos with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one explaining what each one was. But right now I'm on the group W bench because I questioned if the retailer who sold me the airgun had actually done a complete checkout of airgun. So I spoke with a rep and started to explain that the front power adjust knob won't move off the high setting...and he stopped me right there and said Kid, was the airgun cocked when you turned the knob? I said no. And he said nobody changes that knob anyway so it's no big deal. I said it's brand new and all of its parts should... and he stopped me right there and said Kid have you ever shot the gun? I said no 'cause I wasn't sure if something was wrong inside...And he said Kid shoot the airgun and we'll get in touch with you later. So I'm sittin here on the bench, playing with my pencil. The gun shoots, but at 200 fps slower than their checkout sheet says it shot for them with the same weight pellet. Thanks cbow

 

[Scotty1]

My transfer port adjustment wheel was stuck on my new crown when I got it. The knob had too much loctite on it, effectively glueing it in place. The screw holding the knob should not turn with the knob. Try turning the knob counter-clockwise, if it won’t move, loosen the screw and check that it wasn’t glued to the knob. 

 

[cbow]

Thanks for your reply Scotty1. The screw holding the knob doesn't turn with the knob. The knob will turn CW or CCW about 5 or 10 degrees but then hits a dead stop. Agreed I don't have gorilla hand strength but the knob just won't turn to either the medium or low settings. Another knobby question about the rear knob, the hammer spring dial. The stock doesn't have an index mark on it so how does one know exactly where one started and where on the knob rotation the cam is at max and min. hammer spring tension. Click counting doesn't tell where one started nor finished in relation to force on the hammer spring. Intuition tell me that, per many videos, one needs to remove the stock remove the knob and replace it in a position, high or low, that corresponds to a mark gouged into the stock and filled with whiteout. Intuition also hints that such an action by a newb could lead to OELOK. Operator Error Lack Of Knowledge. Thanks cbow

 

[Scotty1]

The index mark would be at 12 o’clock, with the breech block level. 

 

[cbow]

Thanks Scotty1. So changes in the knob position are so small that a precise reference to position is of no consequence and a general sense of rotation is adequate. Is it so, that a 180 degree rotation of the spring tension knob provides all the spring tension adjustment achievable with the dial? Videos show a cam that appears egg shaped, the same on both sides. Can't drop from max tension to no tension in one click or vice versa. Is that your interpretation? So for instance 180 degrees of rotation in one direction of the dial might go from from less tension to more tension and continued rotation in the same direction of rotation from 180 to 360 might do the opposite, from more tension to less tension? It is of some interest that I find 24 clicks from any number or dot to return to the same orientation, but no number 12 or 14. Is 13 an Indexing reference point? Perhaps there is a logical explanation, Azz grass Owls beak, (Butt Hay Who Nose) Thanks cbow

 

[srtmat]

The Power Wheel has been redesigned and just released within the last 2 months.

The videos your seeing are with the old power wheel.

 

[Scotty1]

Srtmat has it figured out, you have the new wheel, the pics tell the story. 

 

[cbow]

Thanks Srtmat for the pictures. Thanks Scotty1. Is the rear knob, (the spring tension knob) supposed to rotate 360 degrees in either direction?

Any Idea why the front knob, (airflow adjuster) won't move off the high position?

Understand that I'm new to PCP and FX. Detailed explanations are welcomed. Thanks cbow.

 

[TMH]

I, for one, do NOT turn the (new style) hammer spring pre-tension wheel in both directions, only CCW. I did not see this in any instruction manual (FX doesn't always update their manuals right away with on-the-fly engineering changes), but having taken my new-style wheel off when dealing with another issue, I noticed that the design seemed that it would not like being turned CW between the lowest and highest settings. Not a lobe like the old style wheel, but a cliff between settings 1 & 23. 

Of course the direction you turned the wheel for a couple of clicks when not at the 1 & 23 junction would not really matter, but I'm just getting in the habit of CCW only.

 

[cbow]

Thanks TMH. From where the sun now stands I will rotate the hammer spring dial CCW only, forever. When I saw srtmarts pictures of the cliff vs lobe style wheel I immediately assumed I had committed and unforgivable OELOK and voided the airgun warranty. We'll see what the retailer has to say. Perhaps, Silence of the Hands, direction of rotation is the best option.

Any suggestions as to why the power adjust knob won't move off the HIGH setting to MEDIUM or LOW? Is that dial, when functioning correctly, a one direction of rotation also? I followed Scotty1s suggestion to determine if the hex bolt head that secures the knob, rotates when I try to change settings on the power wheel. The bolt head doesn't rotate with the very small ( 5 to 10 degrees) rotation of the dial that I'm able to achieve, so probably not a lock tight issue. Thanks cbow

 

[TMH]

...Any suggestions as to why the power adjust knob won't move off the HIGH setting to MEDIUM or LOW? Is that dial, when functioning correctly, a one direction of rotation also? I followed Scotty1s suggestion to determine if the hex bolt head that secures the knob, rotates when I try to change settings on the power wheel. The bolt head doesn't rotate with the very small ( 5 to 10 degrees) rotation of the dial that I'm able to achieve, so probably not a lock tight issue. Thanks cbow

Sometimes the screw locking the transfer port wheel is too tight. In addition, the design of the Crown's stock doesn't allow one to get a really good grasp of the wheel to turn it. Add to this fact that the TP wheel has to turn its inner component (the 'shaft' with the various sized transfer port holes), and sometimes it is just really difficult to turn.

I would remove the screw which holds the TP wheel in place, and try to wiggle it back-and-forth to remove it completely. Then lightly apply some 100% silicone grease to its inner shaft and o-rings, Beware that FX may be tightening some screws really tight in recent builds (and/or using some Loctite) so use a good wrench to remove the screw or risk rounding out the hex head. Also make sure that the detent ball bearing is in the correct location, and not floating around somewhere else.

Note that the amount of grease you see in the photos below is what came from the factory on my most recent Crown purchase.

 

[Scotty1]

You might try just loosening 1/8-1/4 turn, to see if that frees it up, it’s pretty touchy as far tightness goes. Tom’s post above covers it very well. 

 

[cbow]

Thank you TMH. I removed the locking screw and, with difficulty, I was by hand not pry bar, was able to lift the knob a bit but not remove. After several lifts and push backs the dial begrudgingly rotates thru all its detents. The ball bearing must have stayed in place because rotation indexes at the correct positions. Thank you for the help, OELOK avoided. May all your air be dry and projectiles round. Thanks cbow

 

[Emu]

How much you paid for that 'prime quality' rifle?

Next time think about Daystate or Airgun Technology.

 

[cbow]

Thanks Scott1, After TMHs suggestion worked, my paraOELOKnoia has been significantly reduced.

Thanks Emu, Two fine airgun manufacturers. I flipped a three sided coin and it came up FX. YouTube click bait was also an influence on my choice.

Thanks to All cbow

 

[TMH]

Nothing at all wrong with FX. All guns have problems regardless of cost.

In my personal experience:

Brand new Daystate Red Wolf which was excellent on HI power, but couldn't shoot 25 yards on MID power (muzzle velocity like 250 fps). Issue with gun's electronics or programming.

Brand new AGT Uragan King which couldn't hold a group at 50 yards. Ended up going back to AoA under warranty, and they tried all their in-house magic but couldn't get gun to shoot accurately. Had to get a new barrel from AGT.

Lots of folks love to diss on FX - like it is a game. Hard to know whether they have even shot an FX in their life, but they seem to like to try and stir up trouble whenever possible. Take such posts with a big grain of salt.

 

[cbow]

Thank you TMX. In my humble opinion this issue was a BIN (Buger in Nose) problem that could have been solved with a phone call from an informed knowledgeable factory trained rep. I got yada yada yada gonna 'cause it might have cost the retailer shop time plus cash for shipping. So I think choosing a vender is just as important as choosing a brand. No sour grapes here. I got an airgun that works above my expectations. Cheap Azz Burris 4X12 scope with felt tip markers for cross hairs and I'm shooting 5 shot groups at 50 yds that I can cover with my thumb. No my thumbs aren't pie plates, well at least the one I'm using to measure shot groups.. And I don't know shiite about PCP. The vender didn't 'check out the gun as advertised and wasn't up to date about changes. I had to go to people whose goal is info sharing not profit margin. OK done with rant. Thanks cbow

 

[cbow]

Greetings All. My new FX Crown MKII is a laser. Just harvested two, chicken of the tree, fox squirrels at about 45 yds. They are an invasive species here and quite tasty with onion garlic, mushrooms and habanero gravy 'cause if you aint sweatin' you aint eaten. First two rounds fired at game and they were humane kills. Small but succulent if one is careful about skinning, otherwise the meat can be a bit hairy.

I'm still in "Don't touch it you'll break it" mode, as I ask the following;

First pic shows the FX supplied quick connect and the Air Venturi shipped quick connect. The Air Venturi slip collar is stiff to move and when attached to the charge port on the airgun my pie plate fingers (different hand) can't retract it enough to get it to release. Had to use needle nose pliers to get disconnected. I tried to replace the AV quick conn. with the FX quick conn. but the male FX doesn't seat with the O ring in the female AV connection and the reconfigured fixture leaks excessively. The toothpick is pointing to what I think is an FX O ring seal and perhaps its thickness doesn't allow the male FX to seat with the AV female fitting. Comments welcome.

Second photo, (BIN question) shows the end of the long barrel that mates with the breech block. The 'P' is on the same side (portion of circumference) of the barrel as the vent port on the shroud. There is an 'S' on the opposite side, (portion). What do the 'P' and 'S' stand for? Swedish for up/down? Am I correct in assuming the shroud vent port side (P) must always face the Airgun stock?

Describe a detailed procedure for loading a full Mag. Does one leave the airgun with full mag, cocked, bolt closed pellet in barrel, and on safe? Or fire a new mag pellet to leave the airgun not cocked without a pellet in the barrel? Perhaps with no mag, uncock the airgun until ready to do damage to targets or game, then load the mag and with pinpoint accuracy launch deadly projectiles at breath taking velocities from a pneumatically powered machine. Thanks cbow