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Tuning Crosman 140?

Hey, all. I recently bought a Crosman 140 .22 Cal (1979?) and I have some questions and comments about it. Comments first: I love this thing, but it has flaws. It's a bit hard to pump, but I don't mind an upper body workout. The safety design is one of the dumbest things I have ever seen. It reveals the letter "S" while covering the "F" in the firing mode. Does that make any sense? The trigger pull is very heavy. But none of that matters much because I LOVE this gun! It sounds and feels like a .22 rimfire rifle - so cool. None of my other pumpers have a report and slight recoil like this one. So far, I would say it's quite accurate too, but I'm just getting started. I will be employing this baby to pop rodents. It's a killer. I noticed the gas release mechanism is set automatically on your first or second pump versus the usual spring powered bolt action. How does that work? Comments on the model 140 anyone?
 
You can download some basic information from the Crosman website. There also are some rebuild parts available from ABairguns and I think others also. The 140 was my first step of from bb guns, and it was a big step. I just got several 140s back from getting rebuilt and they are neat little rifles. There's a lot better stuff out there these days but looking at them and shooting them reminds me about when I was 12 or 13 yrs old. If you google them there are also some videos on them.
Rick
 
I'll see if I can explain-Most PCPs and many pump-ups have a hammer actuated valve system. Usually by pulling back the bolt or a knob the hammer is drawn back against the hammer spring tension. When the trigger releases, the hammer hits the valve stem releasing a pulse of air. The 140 has a type of valve known as a "dump" valve. The valve spring pushes the valve closed. The sear holds the valve shut against the increasing pressure in the air reservoir as you pump. When the trigger releases the sear, the air pressure forces open the valve, releasing the stored air. The valve spring then closes the valve, readying for another shot. I had a Webley rebel pump-up with a dump valve for a while. My experience was that trigger pull increased with the number of pumps, It was nice and light with three but was pretty stiff with eight.
Hope that made sense,
John
 
I just finished cleaning then replacing all the seals in a 140 I found in my dad's house after he passed. My best guess from the research I've done is it was made sometime in the 50s or 60s. There was zero resistance to the pumping action when I first got it. I got a rebuild kit from Accurate Airguns. My only complaint is there was no labeling as to which seal went where. I ended up trying to match an old seal with a new one as I removed them from the 140. Lucky for me the pump section was in good shape. The rebuild or replace of the pump I think is a little above my skill set. Here's the refurbish 140 and the parts replaced.

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Seal kit parts - with info.1624812314.jpg

 
Excellent job TFM! And thats a real purdy shooter there. Pretty grain on that wood. I've got a few and really enjoy them. 6 pumps gets me 12ish fpe with single hole accuracy with Crosman Premier Domed 14.3. I really appreciate the all wood and metal construction of days gone past. I hope you find yourself some time and space to enjoy shooting that fine unit. Hope you don't mind if I share a picture of a few! And right on to Spysir for the link. I dig the "anotherairgunblog". Thanks for sharing!
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Don't really know why, but could never warm up to the 140 series guns. Finally sold the 147BP and the 1400, but have never gotten around to selling the 140. Next time there is an airgun show I can get to, the 140 will be sold or traded. Gotten to the point that boxing up a rifle to safety sell through the mail is a pain in the you know what.