Cricket Air tube help

[Deepbass9]

So i disassembled my air tube, as I took off the barrel to reblue some spots. I figured I'd check the valve and the tube for corrosion since I've only hand pumped and more recently started using a Spark. By the end of a session, the Spark is pretty much spitting water out of the port...a quality filter setup is in the near future. 

Anyway, valve and tube were good..did find the trigger spring and retaining washer pretty well green and rusty, so I was glad for the whole exercise. 

Now I've tried to reassemble it like 10 times, but it keeps leaking through the forward most rear vent hole on the tube. It's the far right hole in this pic:

I changed both o-rings on the reg with proper sized rings. I've slid it all the way in manually. I've pushed it in past the threads and then put the spacer in and let screwing the plenum/endcap in let it push it the rest of the way in. I've aligned the holes on the reg offset to the holes in the tube. Everytime I go to fill, it's blowing air out of that hole.

What am I missing? Thanks.

 

[Yo]

Have you tried filling it with a tank?

 

[Deepbass9]

No. I just have the Spark.

 

[likkitysplyt]

Is that a power tune from Georgia Airguns? If it is, I'd call Charlie and ask him what the problem might be.

 

[Yo]

Borrow the first couple blasts from someone's tank.

 

[Deepbass9]

Is that a power tune from Georgia Airguns? If it is, I'd call Charlie and ask him what the problem might be.

No. Derrick Wall did it, but I figure the issue has.nothing to do with the tune/work...the vent holes sure look OEM, and the leaking one is on the high pressure side. I thought I'd post to the open forum and see anyone else had run into this. If I can't get help here, I'll try them both.

 

[Georgia Airguns]

Did you replace the internal 0-rings of the reg. If you have not I can pretty much guarantee that is causing it to leak out the bleeder hole. Also, to take apart and work on an airtube that is a few years old and not to replace al the 0-rings is usually a tail chasing process.

Thanks

Charlie Frear, Georgia Airguns

 

[Deepbass9]

Borrow the first couple blasts from someone's tank.

I don't know anyone with a tank, so I sure hope there's something else I can do.

 

[Deepbass9]

Did you replace the internal 0-rings of the reg. If you have not I can pretty much guarantee that is causing it to leak out the bleeder hole. Also, to take apart and work on an airtube that is a few years old and not to replace al the 0-rings is usually a tail chasing process.

Thanks

Charlie Frear, Georgia Airguns

Yes, I replaced them both. 3x24-75 Viton on the HP side and a 3x24-70 Buna on the LP.

Is it a matter of the reg not sealing the tube? Is that what my line of focus should be? Thanks!

 

[Centercut]

I think Charlie meant to also replace the regulator internal orings. 

 

[Georgia Airguns]

That is what I meant, there are two on the inside of the reg that are equally important. All 0-rings should be replaced on the air tube at the same time so you can get another three to five years with out any leakage.



Thanks

Charlie Frear, Georgia Airguns

 

[Deepbass9]

Oh..duh..you did say internal, Charlie. Guess I just didn't read it the right way. Thanks for the point out. 

No, but at this point I'm game. I think I should have what's needed. I put together an o-ring kit that has all the cricket rings that I could find from list on the forums. If you wouldn't mind telling me which is the right size, before I try to dig that up. Looks like I stupidly didn't keep the fitment with the ring sizes. 

Yeah, still working my way through the first couple of in depth sessions, so I'm a little bit newbish, more from of lack of practice than anything. 

 

[zx10wall]

The 2 internal reg o-rings are:

1) 2mm x 10mm Buna-N 70A durometer which is on the low pressure side. This o-ring is on the piston head. 

2) 2mm x 4mm Buna-N 90A durometer which seals both high and low pressure (it sees a lot of work!). This o-ring is secured in the body of the reg and seals the piston rod. 

Start by measuring the black delrin adjusters position with calipers. You will have to remove it to access #2 o-ring.

Remove the snap-ring and pull the piston. Do this slowly and take care to not sling the belleville washer stack everywhere and also to keep their orientation!

You can now change #1 o-ring on the piston head. Wipe up any gunk and use a bit of silicone grease on the new o-ring. Set the piston and stack aside. 

Now that you have the measurement on where the delrin adjuster resides in the reg, remove the adjuster. You will see the brass seal retainer underneath which holds #2 in position. Notice that the brass seal retainer is not tight but just butts up to the o-ring. You will do the same butt up tightness for the brass seal retainer against #2 o-ring when you’re reassembling.

Unscrew the brass seal retainer to remove #2 o-ring. Take the opportunity to wipe any gunk clean and use some silicone grease on the o-rings and sparingly on the reg surfaces. Reassemble making sure to place the delrin adjuster back in the same positions.

 

[Deepbass9]

You the man, Derrick. Thanks for the write up, brother! Was a long hard day today, but I'll tear into it ASAP.

 

[Yo]

+1 Derrick is the man! THIS ONES 4U BRO! 

https://youtu.be/SLEDI_F7HKY

 

[Deepbass9]

Back in biz. Thanks, again, Derrick!

 

[zx10wall]

My pleasure brother.