I’m close to securing a 6k nitrogen bottle. I will be swapping from compressed air to N2, I still have about 180 bar in carbon fiber tank. My question is should I bled all air out of tank to swap to N2 or can I stop around 50 or 100 bar?
Compressed Air to N2
- Thread starter Zeringue
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It won't matter much, most of the air we breathe is nitrogen anyhow. The only concern is how much moisture you may or may not have in your air tank.
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I was always told to completely drain the tank when swapping to Nitro. Not sure if that is true, but IMHO i'm switching for a reason and so I like complete change overs. Then you can see how the performance of your gun changed.
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Mostly because nitrogen is dry. If you put nitrogen into a contaminated container it defeats the purpose of nitrogen altogether aside from the thermal expansion bit.... Or you get nitrogen for cheap/free somehow. I'll be doing something similar with helium soon too
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I found it for a pretty reasonable price, the air that was in my tank came from a quality compressor, Air Tex which has a coalesce and desiccant filter so I know no Moisture was never introduced in tank.
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Cool, Let us know if you see any performance changes with Nitro.
I have a Umarex Komplett that I swap between Nitro, co2 and compressed air. The performance varies between them, but is consistent with the type of propellent you want to use.
I have a Umarex Komplett that I swap between Nitro, co2 and compressed air. The performance varies between them, but is consistent with the type of propellent you want to use.
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Air is 78% n2, so it doesn't matter. I don't use 6K n2, as it is handling large, heavy tanks and requires expensive regulators. I feed my CS2 air compressor 10psi n2 from a 40# n2 bottle, easy to handle and lasts a month or two depending on how much shooting I do.
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I once tried feeding 100 PSI air into the primary of one of my Yong Hengs, just because it was on the bench and the air hose was there. The YH leapt into the air and landed on its side. I'm still laughing as that wasn't expected. No harm was done to any compressors, benches, or observers.
I'm curious as to how you arrived at 10 PSI as the ideal feed pressure. I probably won't use the practice, given that I use my portable compressors at the range, but this seems like a good time to explore the question.
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Stage one is meant to go from atmospheric to like 150 I think. No science was involved with this post. Going 10 over throws off the powerI once tried feeding 100 PSI air into the primary of one of my Yong Hengs, just because it was on the bench and the air hose was there. The YH leapt into the air and landed on its side. I'm still laughing as that wasn't expected. No harm was done to any compressors, benches, or observers.
I'm curious as to how you arrived at 10 PSI as the ideal feed pressure. I probably won't use the practice, given that I use my portable compressors at the range, but this seems like a good time to explore the question.
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I was taught to swap. Make it pure nitrogen. I’m thinking about going to nitrogen. I have a friend who rented 2 8k psi tanks then filled his 4500 psi 9 L tank then filled his guns
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Yes, the YH primary stage goes from ~ambient to ~150 PSIG, or ~15 to 185 PSIA. Did you begin at atmospheric and gradually increase until the power was thrown off @10 PSI? I'm curious as to how the pressure was arrived at. I am not certain what "throws off the power" indicates.
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There has been a lot of airgunners posting over the last few years who have done the testing. I for one have been testing this out for quite a while ( I certainly don't claim to have invented the idea). If you feed too much to the intake, you hamstring the compressor and work it harder. Once you try feeding it too much, you sort of get the picture, right? 10 psi is not magic, we have experimented with from 5 psit to 15psi and the GX "seems" to like something around 10 psi. Also, these pumps have synthetic seals on the low side that probably aren't designed to handle huge increases in pressure.I once tried feeding 100 PSI air into the primary of one of my Yong Hengs, just because it was on the bench and the air hose was there. The YH leapt into the air and landed on its side. I'm still laughing as that wasn't expected. No harm was done to any compressors, benches, or observers.
I'm curious as to how you arrived at 10 PSI as the ideal feed pressure. I probably won't use the practice, given that I use my portable compressors at the range, but this seems like a good time to explore the question.
I will say one thing, before I used n2, I got a bit of rust in the outlet of my compressor, the gauge block etc. Nothing got past the gauge block, but it was something that had to be cleaned periodically. With n2, wow! the insides look like brand new. I've tried the GX filter and it does work, and in my estimation, worked well. If I had no convenient way of using n2, then that would be my choice.
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The loading of the motor. I just started feeding a yh psi till it started loading the motor beyond 1 amp over normal draw. It was highly unscientific aside from watching the current draw. I was getting rid of the yh anyhow so I didn't care if I nuked it. Throws off the power output of the motor and the power draw is what I meant, but that's why I added the caveat of no science involved.
When I feed my 12v pump helium it's going to be at 1 or 2 psi and from a large diameter feedline as a bit of a plenum. I'm borrowing the logic I see behind gas lines and gas meters feeding pool heaters where I live. It's just gut feeling brute force engineering for me. Much goes thru my overclocked head but I have a hard time writing it down or verbalizing it most of the time. Also helium is extremely expensive right now and I'm really not wanting to know what it costs to turn in the "k" cylinder I was given.
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If you know the rate of fill from your compressor you can set the inlet flow rate to match with a flowgauge style reg/flometer
My GX CS4 has a 11 lpm fill rate which is about 21 cuft hr I have also a GX CS2 and feed it 8psi for field use on my truck.the feed line is 1/4" hose
I have tried Helium it is faster to shoot but goes away fast our seals are not designed for helium leak testing
My GX CS4 has a 11 lpm fill rate which is about 21 cuft hr I have also a GX CS2 and feed it 8psi for field use on my truck.the feed line is 1/4" hose
I have tried Helium it is faster to shoot but goes away fast our seals are not designed for helium leak testing
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I use a low pressure regulator that goes with 0 to 15 psi for my CS4. I set the Boost tube about 4 PSI. That gives me the same current draw as using the CS4 to it's fully rated 350 bar and I get that current draw at only 300 bar.
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Unless you vaccum pump the tank to true zero psi, there is going to be air in it when you fill with Nitrogen.
1 atm or 200 isn't going to matter.
1 atm or 200 isn't going to matter.
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Matching gas flow to match the equivalent motor current draw appears to be a valid method, IMO. I am glad that I asked further questions.
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