Coltri Compressor Oil

[mtnGhost]

Strange observation with the oil in my Daystate LC-110. This unit came with Coltri 157 compressor oil, but I had stockpiled around 5L of Coltri CE750 around the time that I had purchased my first LC-110. 

I figured that I would run all the 157 that I had, then drain it and flush it out with 750 when the 157 ran out. Well, I run this compressor twice per week (10-22 minutes per run) to top off my tank. I noticed the 157 would get a to be a thick, blackish-grey color with a nasty texture after 120 minutes of runtime after an oil change. My compressor would use more amperage as time passed with each oil change.

So after doing the flush / replace with the 750, it seems to last 2.5x as long before it starts looking like it needs to be changed. The compressor also runs smoother with a steadier amperage than with the 157.

Has anyone else had better results with 750? Also curious what type of oil that others are running

 

[Guest]

That's all I've been using honestly, I got mine from AOA and it came with 750 by default and I ordered some more. By chance did your 750 come out at all with a green sheen to it? Maybe it's normal, I dunno if you remember my thread a while back about the green sheen and suspecting it was dissolved copper solids.

Yeah just triple confirmed, ISO VG 195 / CE 750

 

[PerkyVal]

The 157 seems to turn dark way too soon. I mean like 5 to 8 hrs. Very annoying and scary.

I had though it was because I was running it with sessions that were too long.

I have relegated the LC110 as a backup compressor for that reason and now use an Alkin as our primary.

 

[mtnGhost]

The 157 seems to turn dark way too soon. I mean like 5 to 8 hrs. Very annoying and scary.

I had though it was because I was running it with sessions that were too long.

I have relegated the LC110 as a backup compressor for that reason and now use an Alkin as our primary.

Exactly. In fact, I was just under 3hrs when I flushed it, and that 157 was burnt and sticky. 

I also failed to mention that the temp got up 30-40F higher at that point (measuring one of the cap screws on the top heat dissipater). 

That's all I've been using honestly, I got mine from AOA and it came with 750 by default and I ordered some more. By chance did your 750 come out at all with a green sheen to it? Maybe it's normal, I dunno if you remember my thread a while back about the green sheen and suspecting it was dissolved copper solids.

Yeah just triple confirmed, ISO VG 195 / CE 750

I definitely had some green with the 157, but it's olive colored to begin with. The 750 might have a slight green hue, but it looks more like dirty motor oil. There's also some cloudiness when I change it, but it's nothing like that other stuff. 

All that I can say is my compressor runs smoother and cooler now. The single stage aspect kind of sucks with the power draw, but I had random problems here and there with the compressor struggling over 4000psi. The motor even shuddered to a halt at 4200 at one point after I did the first oil change (using 157), so it was like the oil had to be broken in before I could fill

 

[Humdinger]

The Coltri 750 that came with mine is all I've ever used. 9 months since the last oil change and it still only looks slightly more of a reddish gold hue than when new. Coltri 157 obviously is the wrong viscosity lube oil for these compressors. The Coltri 750 is so light yellow color that it is hard to see on the dipstick after an oil change.

 

[Centercut]

Almost all high pressure dive compressors recommend ChemLube 751 or equivalent. Certain 4 stage Bauer recommend ChemLube 800 but that’s a much larger compressor than we use (smaller Bauer are 3 stage). 751 is ISO 150 or 40 weight SAE equivalent. The Royal Purple Synfilm high pressure air compressor oil is iISO 100 (SAE 30 equivalent) and not recommended for high performance breathing air compressors. 

 

[Eaglebeak]

The main difference between breathing air and any other compressors is that they require vegetable or some other non-toxic synthetic-based oil. Otherwise, there isn't much difference in their lubrication requirements other than viscosity which is probably more relevant to the environment they are run in than there internal configurations. Each manufacturer will recommend a specific brand, usually one with the same name as theirs. That oil will be produced by a large petroleum company that will sell the same oil under their own brand name. Apart from being non-toxic, the recommended oils probably have the same specifications as their equivalent viscosity motor oils minus the detergent.