Coating projectiles

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Fly

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May 20, 2018
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Oklahoma, United States
I know this has been reviewed many times. I,m not referring to powder coating. I,m talking about Hi Tec coating you projectiles. I have been coating my bullets for years with

much success in the past before I ever got into air rifles. But here of late I have been shooting slugs with very promising success. I got to thinking with all the side contact aria 

With to rifling why would it not help. I have found it indeed seem to. The thing with Hi Tec coating it does not increase the projectile size as powder coating does. It is a very thin 

Coating that is very tuff. After baking on correctly it on to stay. I even started coating my pellets. Can,t say yet that you get the benefits from it you get form slugs. I do know this

is my barrel stays much cleaner & it keep my groups tighter.



Fly😊
 
Here is a link https://hi-performancebulletcoatings.com/hi-tek-supercoat-powder/

What I don't like is that you need 3 or more layers of Hi-Tek to get proper coverage (per the directions). That said, I have not used it ever. And technically, if you are applying a coating, you must be increasing the size, just not sure how much. Powder coating can be 0.001 inch total increase, some may approach 0.002 inch total increase.
 
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Here is a link https://hi-performancebulletcoatings.com/hi-tek-supercoat-powder/

What I don't like is that you need 3 or more layers of Hi-Tek to get proper coverage (per the directions). That said, I have not used it ever. And technically, if you are applying a coating, you must be increasing the size, just not sure how much. Powder coating can be 0.001 inch total increase, some may approach 0.002 inch total increase.
Click to expand...

Well as far as increasing size my micrometer has never lied. I use two coats not three for I see no reason for three. If you like powder coat, great, to each there own. 

I do not under stand why anyone can knock something they never used. But then again if you're happy with powder coat that fine. I,m just reporting on another option 

people can do,plus the essence is just penny's.

Fly🤔
 
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I not trying to get anyone to try it & it won,t make anyone a better marksman.. All I have found with slugs i,m getting better groups with them. I went ahead & coated 

my pellets. My bore is much cleaner after a day of shooting. I care not what any of you do, I just threw it out there if any for any that want try it for what ever. 



Fly😙


 
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Can you post some pictures of your coated ammo? If it gives better results I'll think about getting some to try. But what I've seen from people like Fortunecookie45LC on YouTube definitely was a longer process to get good coverage.

Coat, dry, bake, coat, dry, bake and keep repeating. I haven't seen any videos on using more product to get a thicker coat for a one cycle process, or even a two cycle process. And even if it's a one cycle process, it is still a longer process than powder coat. Mix product, use it fast before the solvents evaporate, let dry for however long, then finally bake. Also not real interested in the Acetone or MEK fumes that are required for the powders, not sure about the liquid product but they say it can not ship air freight so flammable solvents.

It's great for high volume manufacturing, but I'm not sold on individual use. I'd really need to have someone coat some ammo for me to try before I think it is worth doing for the small scale that most of us do. Casting up 200 rounds is a lot of ammo in a big bore, especially when you get up into 50 cal or bigger. People making a 1000 rounds in one sitting might like this better than PC.

Now if it really is thinner, then using this on small caliber stuff where it is harder to size, I'd be more inclined to put up with the process.

But all said and done, after I studied up on the process for a few days, I decided it wasn't for me. I'd suggest other people do your own research and decide. I've seen some really good looking final results with this stuff, if you want really pretty bullets, this is probably the best way besides electrostatic deposition of powder coat.

Though there might be a water based liquid carrier for PC that I may try, haven't finished my research to see if I think it would be good, and cost effective. This liquid carrier might make yellow an easy PC color.
 
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My question would be why would you coat them other then looking good. 9mm pistol bullets are coated so that lead doesn't touch the barrel, lead cant evaporate and dont make barrel dirty. In airguns there is no lead evaporation, barrel doesn't get dirty in just few shots. But with coating you would get them inconsistent, unless you will resize them. But you need to take in account that airgun projectiles are soft and paint gets off once rifling gets pushed inside. It does hold well to the lead, but there coming off paint with the lead.

We made many tests, but there is only potential to make them worse, then they are original.

IMG_20211216_081902.1650704304.jpg



 
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Like I said in my remarks above I have used this process for several year in my reloading bullets. I have used lee alox as many other lubes an so on. This product I had 

very good success with. I never gave a thought to using it when I got into air rifles'. Your barrels may never get dirty but mine do after a 100 shots or so. But any way it 

was only after I started trying slugs that I decided to try this. My groups improved with slugs. I never argue for it serves no purpose. Now discussion is a different 

thing all together. That is the one thing I dislike about this form & why I do not post as much as I use to. There seems to always be a few that want too prove you wrong.

As I said above I care not if anyone try's this coating or any other. Many do believe in coating bullets I like this one because it is thinner. Forms are to attain knowledge from others. It is up to each to chose what is thrown out there. 

JMOHOP FLY 🤔












 
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To answer Zan's question of why coat them, because it provides lubrication that helps prevent lead in the barrel. This can increase accuracy, and sometimes increase velocity. It also keeps the lead off your hands when loading. If you have many weights in a similar shape, you can color code your ammo. I have a mold that makes 84, 86, and 88 grain depending on the size hollow point I used. I intend to color code them so I know immediately which weight I grabbed without looking at the point. I also have the same in a 125 and 155 grain shape.



I also agree that ammo should be sized after coating unless it was already under size and you are using the coating to make up some diameter. I have recently started tested sizing ammo down to 0.001 under size, then powder coat. I need to do more testing as I've found that many are still slightly small. From a manufacturing point, you should be able to dial the size of the bullet to match the finish coated result, just like you dial the size now.



For manufactures like yourself, this Hi-Tek might be just what you want. The liquid coating should give more uniform coverage and may well give thinner results. If you research this process, you might find some firearms people complaining about it fouling their barrels, I have to put this down to improper procedure for a home user. No way commercial manufacturers would use this product if it was causing issues. And many big names are releasing coated bullets, I'd guess most are using this Hi-Tek product.



I think it is a good product, I just don't like the application method. Acetone is very bad for your liver, MEK is no better for your health. If they had a water based method of application, I'd have had a jar of this over a year ago. Not sure it can be made to work with a water based solvent.
 
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Thank you Greg I agree with every point you made. I also size my bullets & do it after coating. This product I do not coat over two times, if you mix it right the first time. 

If you look at the photo above you can tell the viscosity was way to thick. How can I tell? Easy! the base of the slugs with a indent in the base should not have any coating.

None of mind do. The process is you put the slugs, bullets ect in a plastic bowl. I use a ole gal plastic polypropylene ice cream container as Blue Bell ice cream comes in. 

I put my bullets in & only put a very small amount of the acetone mix into the bowl. Then I shake it around & side to side for about 15 sec or so. You can tell well it is enough 

for the bullets will not slide as free in the bowl. I then pour the bullets out on cardboard or news paper for about 5 to 10 minutes to completely dry. The bowl & bullet are never 

wet when I dump them. Acetone evaporates very fast & as little as I put in, "nothing". The first time the bullets are hardly coated. Then I do it all over one more time. Done! I use 

to measure how much mixture I put in the bowl but I have done so many I just know from doing it. I use a plastic squeeze bottle like ketchup use to come in. I would guess 

maybe 8 to 10 drops is all for a 100 25 cal slugs. Hope this help anyone thinking of trying this. Oh ya I do this out side of my shop not in side because of the vapors. But the little I 

use in that environment is not bad. But I should wear respirator. I have a good one for my paint booth, maybe you got me to thinking right for now. (WINK) Fly 
 
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I use the Lee 357 and the "cheap" hand press, if you have room, get a press that mounts to the table.

https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-90047-SIZING-357/dp/B00162NYTA

https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Reloading-Press-Md-90045/dp/B002SF4X5I

https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-Breech-Bushings-Silver/dp/B001GG8ET6

The hand press I bought is now $60, too much money for what it is!

You could also use a tumble lube like this stuff, but it is untested so not sure it is a good recommendation. https://lsstuff.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=13&zenid=nid7ddqg4768thre23dpe2hu70

A little in a zip lock goes a long way!
 
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