Cleaning with a rod instead of a pull through

I want to share what I have learned.
Metal is very porous. Lead film from slugs , or pellets will fill these in making a "seasoned barrel" more accurate , so as long as accuracy is there it's best not to remove the seasoning by cleaning. If accuracy changes then after a cleaning shooting a few dozen pellets , or slugs will re season the barrel. Slugs often cause more fouling due to higher contact with rifling , and higher velocities.
Competition shooters I have read seldom clean , but with a new barrel it's best to remove factory barrel coatings put there to prevent rust. Being as different manufacturer's use different alloys for the pellets, or slugs it's possible that if accuracy changes a lot then a cleaning may be necessary.
This can be frustrating trying to find the best pellet for a new barrel , so after testing different brands , and weights then finding one that shoots the best stick with that alloy for best results. OV
 
I see a lot of advice to use a pull through barrel cleaning system for airguns.
What about a very high quality rod?
Any reason it isn't as good or possible to hurt the barrel or crown?
I am of the opinion that the cleaning method depends upon the projectiles used and barrel. The best indicators to me on what type of cleaning is needed are POI shifts and images from a bore scope. Personally I shoot a decent amount of slugs from big bore air rifles. When I clean these barrels, I prefer to use a brass brush and fiberglass rod especially after I see images of thick lead streaks and flakes in a barrel. It was eye opening to scope a couple of barrels after cleaning a big bore with a pull through system (I use a Patchworm). I think one should be in the habit of protecting the crown while cleaning a barrel regardless of the cleaning implements used. Ultimately I suggest sticking with what works for your air rifles.
 
I is recommended to clean from the breach to the crown. With most guns it's not doable, the magazine well prohibits access with a ridged rod. With the pull through cord you are able to make the bend to insert the the cord. I use a Tipton carbon fiber rod myself. All my rifles are semi auto, 3 K1s and a SK19. The fixed magazine precludes using a pull through cord, no access. To clean my rifles I must remove the barrels. If anybody has an easer way please share it with me.
 
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I want to share what I have learned.
Metal is very porous. Lead film from slugs , or pellets will fill these in making a "seasoned barrel" more accurate , so as long as accuracy is there it's best not to remove the seasoning by cleaning. If accuracy changes then after a cleaning shooting a few dozen pellets , or slugs will re season the barrel. Slugs often cause more fouling due to higher contact with rifling , and higher velocities.
Competition shooters I have read seldom clean , but with a new barrel it's best to remove factory barrel coatings put there to prevent rust. Being as different manufacturer's use different alloys for the pellets, or slugs it's possible that if accuracy changes a lot then a cleaning may be necessary.
This can be frustrating trying to find the best pellet for a new barrel , so after testing different brands , and weights then finding one that shoots the best stick with that alloy for best results. OV
I agree with you, somewhat. While lead may fill in some voids in porous steel, it usually bungs up the choke area. I’ve shot competition for years, both FT and BR. After a hundred shots or so, accuracy starts to degrade, maybe minutely, but it does due to excessive lead deposits in the choke. You may not notice it, but it sneaks up on you. When you’re shooting in the high 740s in BR, one pellet strike just a few thousandths of an inch can lose you the match. I clean after every 25 shot card, then season the barrel with 5-10 sighters. I would like to hear from other top competitors if they don’t bother cleaning.
 
With my FX guns (Boss, Royale) Cleaning is only needed once or twice a YEAR. The Original Smooth Twist barrels on those guns are known for accuracy & low maintenance. My slug gun requires more cleaning though not as much as I expected. I have a rod and pull-through and usually only use rod for a "deep clean". As a rule I avoid metal brushes but there are times it's required. I only clean when accuracy changes, not on a routine maintenance basis.
 
I prefer to do a light cleaning regularly rather than a heavy duty cleaning when accuracy starts dropping off.

The cleaning schedule depends on the alloy of the projectile, the velocity it's driven at and the particular barrel. If the projectile lubed or not also is a factor.

Most of the time I'm fairly casual about cleaning the bore and will run a couple of patches thru every time I open a new tin for that airgun.

When testing, tuning and shooting for best groups, I'll top off the air reservoir and pull an oiled patch followed by a couple of dry ones every 25 shots.

Topping off the reservoir adds heat to the PCP. Quick-cleaning the bore gives me something useful to do while I'm waiting for temperatures to stabilize a bit.

My "25-shot service" routine gives me a little break between shooting the strings and helps me with focus.

I use a carbon fiber cleaning rod. To clean, I mount the PCP (transfer port up, scope down) in the gun-vise, insert the cleaning rod from the muzzle and pull the patch into the tip with a pair of tweezers (ground down to fit thru the slot in the tip).

A lot of my PCPs have a gap between the shroud and the muzzle making feeding a pull-thru a real pain in the butt. I find that using a rod is much quicker and easier.

Cheers!
 
I try to clean barrels as little, and as seldom as possible. Let accuracy be your guide. Using a metal rod is fine, but only when needed and done properly. With most all air rifles, that means removing the barrel and breech seal, if applicable. A soft bronze brush will not damage the barrel, but nylon usually works as well. Pull-throughs are quick and easy and can usually be used with barrel in place.
 
Back in my college days, in Army Rotc I was on the smallbore rifle team two years, 63-65. We shot Winchester 52d and Remington 40x target rifles, using if I remember correctly Winchester ammo. We never cleaned the bores and most guns fired a couple of hundred rounds a week.
I was on the ROTC rifle team as well and shot Winchester 52Ds. We, students, were never assigned to clean rifles. What the armorer did after hours, I don't know. Bear in mind, that rimfire barrels are not choked and rimfire bullets are all lubricated with wax. I have never found any lead buildup in a rimfire barrel.
 
I use a patch worm now. I've previously used doubled weed wacker line. A rod made of plastic (carbon fiber or fiberglass) is unlikely to harm the barrel but the plastic line is even softer minimizing the chances of damage. I remove the in shroud moderator, very easy to do. I have cleaning rods and brushes for the 22 calibers but I only use them if the bore scope shows the barrel is leaded.

I don't think airgun barrel steel is as hard as powder burners, especially center fire guns. The harder the barrel cleaning material the greater the chance you could wear the barrel a very small amount. I don't think the risk is very significant but I also do not see a reason to take the risk. Routine cleaning is easily done with a patch worm with a minimum of potential for damage.